Are you using a resistor plug or cap? That may help.
Another option may be to wind the sensor wire through a ferrite ring a few times. They can be found in dead PC Power Supplies or maybe at a Maplin electronics store.
Mine is a sad case really but will restore well I think. I wished I'd had bothered to restore it as soon as I bought it in the mid 90's. As it happened I threw it together, started it, found there was a carb jet or passageway blocked so it would not run for long. Also the reason the previous owner laid it up became very apparent!
He'd attacked the final drive sprocket with an angle grinder and cut badly into the taper. I can deal with that ok though once I get the motor apart.
The caphead screw is effectively the oil filler cap/drain.
They are not the easiest to get apart, and unfortunately the "new" parts are to the new design and not fully interchangeable. Biggest difference is the early damper rods had an 8mm thread on the piston end and the new are 6mm so the new shims do not fit the old rods.
In my case I needed new rods so I got new rods, Shims, Piston, Bushes, Wear Strips.
To take them apart the springs off obviously, then the bottom mount, Prise the black plastic cap off the body (O ring underneath), there is the 1st circlip under the cap, remove it.
Then the fun begins! The top and bottom bush carriers then need to come out and it's probably better that there is still oil in the shock to help push them out as there is nothing to get hold off to pull them, there are a couple more O rings too.
Finally there is a hard to get hold off circlip about 1 1/2" down the bore, and it's a SOB!! I found all my circlip pliers would slip off just when you think you have it!
Once this is out the whole damper rod/piston assy can be drawn out.
I'm going to re-engineer mine a bit before they are rebuilt, call it a cross between the old and new rockshocks.
I kind of know what what you mean! I ordered some Bultaco parts from a spanish supplier possibly same one as I'm not sure who I pointed you to now! It was a deal where a friend over there made the payment on my behalf in lou of parts I supplied him. Their shipping costs made the deal unfair to my friend in my opinion. So I feel I have to make it up with more "stuff".
Just checked, and YES it is the same dealer! Well we know better now don't we!!
I'll see if there's anyone else who wants one amongst my 330 contacts, and quite possibly it will then be worth me running a few off.
My airbox looked quite nasty when I took it off the bike, it's cleaned up fairly well actually.
The one from Sandifords? It's been on there months I think!
So what else is planned Steve?
Not too much progress on mine, but I did have a chance to take a look at the Airbox lid, but not sure if you managed to get one yet?
If you had a go at screwcutting one good on you! It's actually M128 x 4mm pitch and even I, who screwcuts 1000's of items a month on my cnc lathes would find that tricky as a one off on a manual machine especially as it's just a couple threads at most up to a shoulder.
I'd actually mill the thread on a cnc mill probably.
Small end wear usually causes a noticeable "tinkling" sound. Piston Slap is usually more a definite metallic tapping sound especially on bigger bore machines, also can often be noticed when just easing the piston over tdc with the kickstart by hand.
Hi, can anybody point me in the direction of a supplier for the parts to make up a rear brake cable for my B40. (Trialsbits cant help)
Dont want to use a rod as the brake comes on as the suspension compresses.
Thanks in advance
Ross
Ross
Does your brake rod have a compression spring the other side of the actuating arm to the adjuster nut? If it's operating the brake on compression of the suspension then something is binding.
A brake rod should work if the geometry and design are all correct.
Which Sandiford was it who rode a works bultaco then??? James Sandiford was the UK Concessionaire for Montesa for nye on forty years. I doubt Montesa would be very happy if he rode a "works" Taco!!!
Sandiford/Comerford guess there's room for confusion
There's a Sherpa with Loooong forks and disc brake on evilbay at the moment. Nasty!
There have been many Sherpas modified over the years, there is a thread over on Todotrial with pictures of quite a few of them.
I guess it could be a fun thing to do, BUT do make sure your donor bike is not one of the more desirable Sherpas before you start taking a saw to it!
Might be better if your engine and frame numbers match to go out get an orphan engine and frame to play with. There's a 199 (Though he's listed it as 199B which it's not) frame on ebay at the moment, and at tenner last I looked.
You Should be able to but not easily. You can often extract the old ones by driving a couple of self tappers into the face of the seal and pull it out.
Fitting a new one will need some care, and preferably using a tool made from some suitably sized tubing to drive it in.
I have seen that here on a 350 bulto. The screws shear and the tyre is scrap.....not enought screws. All speedway and grass trackers do the same but 5 screws each side is not enough.....
Some of the 370 Bultaco pursangs used countersunk self tappers. Not sure how well it worked.
I've seen speedway bikes with the valve sticking out through the sidewall of the tyre and no rimlocks or maybe they did..
Bicycle Speedo
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
Are you using a resistor plug or cap? That may help.
Another option may be to wind the sensor wire through a ferrite ring a few times. They can be found in dead PC Power Supplies or maybe at a Maplin electronics store.
Wayne...