It may be voluntary liquidation as pointed out elsewhere.
Over the years I probably only ever purchased from Sandifords a handful of times, but then I do admit to being more of a Bultaco man!!
In anycase it's always a sad day when an established company ceases to exist. It fairly recently happened to a company I had given 20 years of my career to, and they had been in business 40 years in total.
I also know that a Bultaco machine was indeed ridden in the SSDT well before 1965, I know Tommy Ollerton rode one in particular but certainly not a Model 10 (Sammy Miller).
Yes pretty much impossible to have been a Model 10. The brand was only 6 years old by 65 so not many other models to choose from!
I wonder how many Tralla, Metralla, Campera, Sherpa N models etc etc which were all earlier Bultaco models 59-64 and some still made into the 70's were actually modified and trialed during the contentious period. Probably some....
Same with Montesa and Ossa. I've fairly recently seen a couple of rather nice looking trialised Impala's and one 160cc Ossa around the net, all fairly modern conversions though. In my eyes far more interesting than say a Trial Bantam or the overly popular cubs.
As for the swinging Arm, have to look out for someone breaking a 242 or 330 Montesa I guess. No doubt there's others out there that could be utilised. Even a modified mono one <cough>
Agreed the head steady is poor. The forks are cheating surely? Dellorto carb?
I was trying to be polite re the head steady The properly triangulated late Bultaco one was what they should have always been. I know for a fact I've welded and reinforced quite a number of the earlier pressed steel steadies.
Forks look stock with 3 stay lugs removed and the trendy more modern looking arrangment for mounting the mudguard.
I have had no problems with points on all 3 Sherpas I have owned.
A rewound exchange low tension coil,new points,2 condensers 1 in the usual place and 1 under the tank.Keep an eye on the points gap and keep them clean.
Timing set at 2.8mm BTDC with a dial gauge.
Agreed, well sorted and setup original points just works but is also not a fit and forget solution a lot of people seem to want.
2 Condensors is a good idea but I always fitted them both under the tank and left one disconnected as a spare just in case. Easy 2 minute job to swap out a suspect one for the spare. I also never bothered to use the oem condensor in preference to anything else.
The shot gun alarm things are good, as said above not sure if they are legal though. I wired up an electric fence energizor to the handle of my shed when I was nearly bust into, nice 8000volt shock to anyone who touched it , but I removed it shortly after as I bloody new I'd forget most days. i,ve got two alarms, one mortice lock and three heavy duty hasp and staple locks now, be 10 times easier to break into the house.
I quickly googled it, and they are still available in the uk. Will wake up a whole neighbourhood if set off and at the same time probably create a wet and messy situation in the scums underpants!
They are made from HIPS, then vac formed over a GRP mold i took from an origonal. The lugs on the back are nylon, turned down on a laith to match the origonal lugs. The problem i have is bonding the lugs onto the panels. I have used araldite to bond the lugs on however i am not sure the bond is strong enough. I could tap a thread into the lug and have a flush bolt head on the front side.
Any ideas???????
I have at the moment got panels made for 240 - 125 and 300. I have made some for my own 200 but have troubles making the clip that goes around the frame.
Steve
Bonding nylon to HIPS is not very ideal for longivity of the bond. Personally I would go the threaded fastener route. Never going to look OEM but should last a lot longer.
C3's should be no looser than standard as far as the fit in the hub is concerned.
It's their internal clearances that are looser to allow for use in housings that are tighter fit by design to allow greater working temp range without spinning.
A normal grade bearing in a C3 specified housing would run tight.
Just noticed that the new wheel bearings I bought are C3, thought this was for engine internals only !
Does it matter ?
Thanks Ross
Ross
Maybe not. Probably just end up a with a little more clearance than standard bearings. C3 have more radial clearance to compensate for the more severe interference fits as used internally in the engine.
Back full circle to the perpetual issue haha!
, but I removed it shortly after as I bloody new I'd forget most days.
Pre 65 Bultaco M10
in Classic Trials
Posted · Edited by wayne_weedon
I just read the thread over on the forum mentioned above. All I can say is amazing! Clutching at straws are not the right words.
Even Woody's quote of Sam's comments get slated.
Wayne....