Ok,a bit of advice,the shock mounts on the swinging arm are fairly easy.The upper mounts on the frame are a bit harder,when I move them on Majesty conversions I use a little drill guide to help out when trying to drill a fairly large hole in a not much bigger tube.Its just a length of flat steel with a length of tube welded to it in line,at the right height to make the drill stay central when drilling into the frame tube.You can scribe a line down the length of the flat to help line up with the opposite side.If you look at these photos; https://plus.google.com/photos/109171438807732712015/albums/5694268572989036097?banner=pwa
About 50 pics down you will see what I mean. Pay plenty of attention to bracing as already said,the subframe simply wasn't built to take these kind of loads.
I've seen alot of twinshock Yamaha TY175s that the subframe wasn't up to strength either,indication is the small strip of metal that is horizontal just above the swingarm pivot starts to buckle as the subframe bends upwards from repeated hard bottoming. Result is a slacked out front end geometry.
Besides the weight it appears that you can get your thong headlamp in either Black or White... Gotta be honest... I am usually Wow'ed at the sight of a thong heading in my direction...
I am thinking team WGASA should be getting some royalties here...
--Biff
PS Nice bike. Interesting that they are using CAN protocol to communicate to their module. I would have a field day there...
So no one who buys one of these dare pits next to you and leaves the bike unattended? Who know what kind of "Suzuki TM400 Cyclone" hit of power they'd find when They get back?
BTW,really would've liked to see you at Trials Inc. Vintage Cup Finals,it was right up your alley,just ask Scott and Jim ;-)
Good deal,need to cut my 240 pipe open over the winter,found a piece of the mesh in the stinger awhile back,pulled it out but curious to see what's inside.I'll take a look with my scope first.wanting do dial in the jetting better but without a clean pipe it's meaningless.
I always shift any Trials bike gently and with the clutch,they don't make light weight bikes out of Heavy-Duty parts! Once in gear you can let it rip,just don't slam gears like a MX bike.
Danville,IL has some good trials people to know,there will be a event there likely next spring,either come ride the Novice line or sign up to score,you can learn ALOT punching scores by watching the riders(and watch the rider,not the bike so much)
I can't recall if the tire was brand new,it may have been on a few weeks,but I'm not one to gronk down upon a rimlock,If you have a new Michy by all means put her on.With Multiple bikes you should really consider Dunlops in the future,much cheaper,Ryan says they're A-OK
Was it a pain to mount/seat ??? I've been thinking about one for my 240 forever now .... No matter what rim lock or tube brand , she hooks up so well my back tire always slips on the rim ... Seems I'm always breaking the tire down and rotating it back on the rim ...
Glenn
Easypeasy,comes with tool to help,good instructions.
I am not even very fastidious about maintaining the proper pressure,Been doing lots of riding setting up a Vintage Trials event and the SWM runs so quiet and smooth I just keep grabbing it and going,no tire issues.I would not choose to mess with any "Rim Strip" tubeless wheel over the Nuetech. I have not however had reason to dismount the tire yet so that procedure is of unknown complexity.
Closer to the pivot increases leverage but also increases lever travel vs.engagement. helped with control on my bike,may not be the issue on yours,but it's not a irreversible mod,conversely you could extend the arm decreasing the leverage too.
Our vintage sections demand clutch work,modulating power with the clutch is very necessary. My Fantic is actually working better than my Sherco right now in that aspect,however my SWM is crap in that it releases suddenly just when you are trying to increase slip that tiny bit extra and the bike comes to a stop.Can't say 61AJS is wrong as I had to ride that way this past weekend but I wouldn't have done so poorly on the first two loops if the clutch was spiffy,it got into my head too,adjusted and rode clutchless style the last loop but sections I could easily have cleaned left me hanging with a dab or two(After 3's and 5's the first loop!).It's all down to friction in the plates/basket/actuator and I will fix that in the off season,next few weeks are laying out the Trials Inc. Vintage Cup Finals.(We have some VERY good riders in our series and sections have to be tough to take points!)(Single line trials too!)
What brake pedal are you using? Stock or Sammy? I drilled a lower hole in my Sammy Miller to increase leverage which made the brake more controllable as it takes slightly more travel to engage,less pedal pressure but more control over engagement.with the stock SM hole I had to press harder and it just seemed to be not stopping enough or locking up.
Why isn't your index finger on the clutch lever? good form otherwise
Gawd,I was riding bad the first loop,shoulda brought my Fantic,needed better clutch action and more Zip! Adapted to what the SWM was doing wrong midway through the second loop and changed my attitude :-)
I was a Fantic dealer and had to replace about 5 of them.
In Fact at our first USA National in`95. The Fantics were all getting manifolds and the Gassers were getting complete fork seal holders with a new size seal. It was entertaining watching the warranties take place at an event. Long lines at both camps!
Cool, I was a Fantic dealer too,unfortunately it was 1972 which meant we sold Broncco minibikes....or well,us kids rode the inventory to death while dad was out of town so we only managed to sell 2 or 3...
Man,I second that,hope to eventually make mine that nice,but she always seems to get put on the back burner....
It may feel front heavy compared to other old bikes but I can manage to ride it as well as a modern bike.
Mine is a bit noisy but piston clearance is right on spec,hope to investigate over this winter.
"Plenty of power"is a understatement of mine,was a brute until I put a undersized Oko on it,now much more managable,But I intend to go back to hot rod power as soon as I go through her ;-)
I Second on the TIG welding of the airbox, Built one for my Fantic 240 that way.I've been told you cannot TIG oily aluminum also,best to find a oxy/acet old tyme magician for that kind of repair.
l adapted a Beta rear wheel to my 309,had to make a caliper mount as the Beta hub was wider.Chain line worked out perfect.I believe it's off a TR34.
Ignore the disc protector as I was just goofing around as I made it,one day it will get cut off and a proper flexible guard installed.I don't ride this bike much and it is waiting it's turn to get finished up nice. I have ridden it enough to know it works perfectly,I forget that I made this modification when riding.
I change shirts every loop or two,freshens me right up for the rest of the trials.If out practicing I just let myself get drenched,it is training after all.
Inside arm needs to be straight,step down on inside peg to initiate the turn,keep your body over the contact patch of the tires,lean bike and let the camber of the wheels force the turn as much as possible as opposed to "steering" the front wheel which causes it to push out. Exaggerate everything until it feels like you are goon riding. Now if I could just manage to not forget all that myself when I'm riding bike not computer...
watch the video,pay attention to rider more than bike.
Man,we have this freakin' off camber turn at our practice area I just can't even seem to get close to makin'.I think I'll watch it myself and go to my tiny backyard and practice!
If the breather is clean inside and flows well it's actually beneficial,it will catch the oil in the vapor and return it to the crankcase,only penalty is the weight. The type of emissions it reduces does not impact performance.That said,it's probably more important if being used on the road,plus,it's ugly.Do the footpeg mod,Put some trials tires on that thing and ride it ;-)
Anyone Have A 'ladybird' Guide To Converting A Tyr To Twinshock
in Yamaha
Posted · Edited by htrdoug
I've seen alot of twinshock Yamaha TY175s that the subframe wasn't up to strength either,indication is the small strip of metal that is horizontal just above the swingarm pivot starts to buckle as the subframe bends upwards from repeated hard bottoming. Result is a slacked out front end geometry.