Teflon tape under the lever clamps and making sure the levers move seems to work to prevent breaking the levers, also move them in on the bar.
Art
I've done this for about 15 years and I also heat treat the levers to normalize them so they bend instead of breaking. I can't remember when I last broke one.
I had this issue on my Gasser, I cut a piece of old oil bottle and fixed it to extend the existing chain guard. Only tried it as an experiment but has worked so well it's now a permanent fixture.?
Yes those are the wires on your photo so you are already on the rainy setting.
There is only a very subtle difference between the 2 ignition settings, One is intended for slippy conditions with a very slightly softer power band with slightly restricted top revs. The second one is just normal. The switch if fitted is only an open/closed switch, the 2 wires I mentioned are connected together for the softer one and just disconnected from each other for normal one. ?
I started out on an 06 pro and found it a bit like how you described above. To calm it down I was advised to try these points.
You can fit a slow throttle, to check which type you have just roll the grip back slightly to see what colour the tube is (White is quick.Black is slow)
The 2006 has two ignition settings, If you do not have a switch fitted showing "Sun or Rain" then check under the tank for 2 wires Orange and Black are connected together (this would be the rain setting).
You can fit a Flywheel weight.
Change the sprockets gearing. I use 10t front 42t rear.
My first trials bike was a GasGas 06 and I first ran it at 50:1. it was orrid to ride smoked badly and fouled plugs, importer told me the manual was written for the pre pro model and I should use 70:1. It ran so much better I've run this for 10 years using Putolene or Castrol fully synthetic oil. ?
The lining in my Airoh is still looking as good as ever so you may never need to replace it, more likely you will replace the helmet before then if you bash it as many times as I have.
I'm that impressed with the comfort and cooling I've bought another in the sales.
When you get your new seal apply some engine oil to the shaft and the hole in the seal. This will prevent the seal getting sliced when putting the shaft through it!
No other paths for Oil and Coolant to mix, just the water pump.
You can get coolant in the oil if the cylinder head seal leaks then the higher pressure builds up in the coolant system and will breach the waterpump seal.
Always make sure the radiator breather hose is clear and not kinked so that the pressure can blow out into the open and hopefully not into the oil.
I had an 2006 model that both sides broke off. Had them welded back on and no troubles. They were actually already cracked from manufacture because parts of the cracked surfaces were chromed when the frame was done.
Try Venhill, Goodridge or Hel for after market parts. GG UK sell Venhill kits Inc' clutch and brake hose with a throttle cable for £70. So £69 for just one hose is a ripoff.
I have an 04 and it has one fitted its the same part for models 02 - 08. just order one of these BT280212026 from Gasgas. I got this info from the parts manual.
You've done well there! hopefully you won't need to do it again. A club member was having trouble and pumped 500ml through it and still no brake. Turned out that he thought he should shake the bottle well before use! ?
Ah the one behind the magneto you might be able to change in situ. If the exhaust is smoking or if oil is coming out the breather pipe then you'll need to split the motor to change the crank main seals.
Bark busters
in General Trials Talk
Posted
I've done this for about 15 years and I also heat treat the levers to normalize them so they bend instead of breaking. I can't remember when I last broke one.