scottie_b205

Thanks for the photos Gordon. I need some new riding pants. The pair in your photo make my ass look big.

Thanks tips breagh, I finally figured it out yesterday morning. I finally tried placing the closed square end of the clip under the bolt on subframe. I placed the plastic filter insert so the taller clip lip was in the front after looking at the sy parts diagram.

I just picked up a '12 SR280. I promptly took the air filter out for cleaning and ran into a few problems down stream. I am now assembling the airbox and filter but don't know the proper alignment of the filter holding insert or clip position. Should the insert have the bigger clip lip on the front side or the back? How the heck does the large holding clip mount back in? I remember the open end going into the small recesses on the sides of the airbox but nothing seems to come close which ever way I try. I tried to look up the parts manual on the scorpa fr. website but they changed everything to the 2015 model launch. Thanks, Scott

I never dawned on me that both bikes could have been leftovers that the importer swapped out the rear fender and graphics onto. I couldn't get by my original thought. Thats why we ask questions on forums like this. I had asked one of the sellers about the year and his only reply was its a 2012.

Did Ossa have a mid year graphics change? I have seen two '12s for sale with '13 graphics. Both bike are like new with no time on them. Neither bike has the white marzzochi forks on them. If they did have a change, is that also when the new style air cleaner was added. I saw a previous thread that said the very first '12 didn't have the air cleaner update.

I got my 300 in last week. After going through most of the bike checking for grease on bearings and what not I finally rode it. I put about 40 minutes on it before riding the first trials event of the year my area today. I didn't put the flywheel weight on yet though. I didn't change anything on the bike. I'm actually liking it a lot. When I first got on it I thought it may be too much for me. I have been rolling the throttle on and torqing it around and the bike is amazing to me. For now I am leaving it as is but may put the FWW on to see the differance later on. I ride the senior novice lines so huge hits aren't in the future for me. Thanks for all of the replys. Scott

I got what I think is a good deal on a basically brand new used bike. The stock tires still have the wiskers on them. I have read the replys, older post, and got some thoughts from a local GG dealer. I am going to go with the flywheel weight and slow throttle for now. If I do go the lower compression route I will go with the insert. I didn't consider the extra set of o-rings when I made the post. Thanks for the replys.

I am getting a 2010 300 Pro next week and would like to get either the low compresion head insert or the head spacer kit. Is there a differance between the two? Which one am I better off with? Would I be better off with a flywheel weight instead of going the compression reducer route? Thanks

Hello, I have a '99 monty 315r. I took off the ignition cover and removed the stator and pickup so I could beadblast and repaint it. The stator went back in no problem but i'm not sure of the correct placement of the pickup. The factory manual was no help. When I first placed it back in it was rubbing on the flywheel. I moved it some and no rubbing. The bike starts no problem but seems to have the timing advanced. Its really snappy and seems to be detonating a bunch when I back off the throttle to idle down. Right now i'm not sure if its the pickup position or an air leak. I had the cylinder off to have it replated and install new piston and rings. The snappiness wasn't there before I took the bike apart. The cylinder was in bad shape before replating though. I had pump gas in it after assembly so I believe its not low octane. I ended up putting the bike in the basement for the winter but now its time to sort it out with the weather trying to turn.

I have a 1999 montesa 315r and I am not impressed with the front brake performance. I have read some discusions on this website pertaining to getting the 2 pot brake better. I recently saw a '97 315r for sale that had stock forks and a 4 pot brake mounted. When I went to email the owner it was gone and the listing was deleted. What I would like to know is if the 4 pot is a direct bolt on? Will it line up with the disc?

I have a 1999 Montesa 315R. I would like to know what good starting point for jetting at sea level is. I can't find anything info on stock jetting in the monty manual or in the forums. I can find specs for Gas Gas 270s with the same Dellorto PHBH 26MM carb on the GG usa website.. I have a 135 main X19 needle 2nd clip from the top 38 slow jet #2 air screw 2,5 turns out. My plug looks wet and i'm thinking the main should be smaller after seeing the Gas Gas spec in the 18 to 120 range.

Thank you for the spring info. I will try your setup. If it slips for me, I can always try two of my stiffer springs.

Spring measurements as follows: 2.46mm thick 7 coils 18mm wide 36.5mm long

I have a 240 which I installed a 280 complete top end on. There are only 4 springs in the clutch. They measure 36.6mm so I'm guessing they are the soft springs by your post. I don't know how old they are. I will order two medium springs and see how that goes. I don't remember what the clutch felt like at the lever.I bought and stripped the bike down almost two years ago. Too many projects and a bad experience with a shady powdercoater and i'm getting ready to assemble it.

I looked up the XR600/650 valve springs and there are two springs on each valve. Are the correct springs the bigger outer or smaller inner ones. That is what I see in the schematics. I am guessing the larger valves but don't want to pay to find out.

Thanks for the reply. I will have to widen my ebay search works. "Montesa 242" doesn't get the results. Montesa cases does though.

Does anyone know if the Montesa 242 cases are shared with any other Montesa model? If I want to get this bike going some day I will need to find a set. My cases have been "customized" to be nice. The bike wasn't running when I got it. I took the clutch cover off to fix the shifter spring and found the new bolts that don't belong. Thanks, Scott

Thanks for the picture reply sooty. I guess my frame is the same. It just looks off on my bike but its probably me. Thanks for the earlier pics of the engine with the case off. I took off my clutch cover to check the shifter spring. The spring was off but I found someone had really messed up the center cases . I found bolts running from one side to the other to hold the centers together and the case peeled open on the edge of the idler gear bearing. This project will be on the back burner for a bit now. Hope to see your finished 242 soon . Scott

Sooty, can you check something out for me? I have a 242 and want to know if when looking from the headtube back if the rear frame rails align straight with the backbone? My frame looks like the swingarm and rear frame rails are off to the right when looking back. I have nothing to compare mine with. My shocks line up fine and aren't bent so I was thinking maybe it's just that way to clear the exhaust. Thanks, Scott

Martin, Thank you for the reply . Jims yokes are in the mail.

Well I took Woodbutchers advice and knocked a piece off of the nut. I drilled two holes and dremalled across them. I knocked the piece off and since there was an edge I took a drift, placed it on the edge, and hit it with a hammer a few times. The nut finally spun. I had to pry the lock washer off then tap the back of the sprocket in a circular pattern to get that off. Now I have a new problem. I broke the rest of the bike down to have the frame repainted. When I was taking the forks off, the bottom triple clamp pinch area just about broke off. I believe it was stressed to begin with. It's cracked all the way across. Someone replaced the SWM fork leg with a Betor fork leg from a Bultaco on that side. The handle bar also looks as if it took a hit on that side. Anyone know where I might find a triple clamp? Scott

Any ideas on how to break my SWM 240s countershaft sprocket nut. Penetrating oil is doing nothing. I stuffed a block of wood between the rear wheel and swingarm, sat on the rear tire, applied heat with mapping gas to the nut, and had a breaker bar with a long pipe on top of it and the nut won't move. The chain is still attatched and another block of wood is behind the rear tire and it just spins the rear wheel. I can't see the nut being reverse threaded. I haven't heated the nut cherry red. I think it will hurt the countershaft itself. My impact gun isn't doing half of what the breaker bar is doing. Any ideas?

Thanks for the reply. I asked because I wasn't sure if my fox shox could be rebuilt. The shafts have small pitted rust spots. I believe I have found a source for them though.

Hello, I would like to know if the rear shocks are suppose to be 14 inches long? Also, are they suppose to be mounted in the front mounting hole or the rear. There are two holes for mounting and my shocks which are 14 1/8 inches long are mounted in the rear position. Thanks, Scott

Thank you for the measurement. Now I can see how far out I really am. I actually saved the inner steel sleeve. I soaked it in penetrating oil for a week but that didn't help. I ended up taking it to work and placing it in a press. What was left of the swingarm pivot really didn't want to budge. I used my mapping gas torch to heat up the sleeve and after some more pressure it started to give. It finally came out after moving about a 5mm every time I applied pressure. The sleeve is all cleaned up now. A new pivot bolt is on its way. Thanks again, Scott