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Which camera?


nigel dabster
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It's a good shot, but I hate that kind of photo. A lot of the ones I took at the Scott were like that - almost like they were taken in the middle of the night. There's no way round it either if you want to avoid motion blur :rolleyes:

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:rolleyes: An alternative to using a digital camera, is to use a regular 35mm SLR and then transfer your film to a CD ROM - This way you can use high shutter speeds, and most 35mm cameras are now cheap because of the latest boom in the digital market. - Pentax and Canon lenses are fantastic for getting those "Low light" shots..... aye Outlaw Dave
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I agree with Andy, it is important to plan your shot a little. The pros think about the background, framing the shot, whether they zoom, pan, while planning where to stand. With a digital you can try a few 'dummy' shots beforehand and see how they look and just delete them.

To get a shot of anything faster than 'a rambler on a sunny day' you do need to pan. Used to follow the RAC Rally (as it was then) and we'd get ourselves on the inside of bends to get the best shots - as it meant you're not panning so fast. It was nigh on impossible to get a decent 'in focus' shot from the outside of a corner.

A big criticism of many trials shots is that the are normally of a rider at the top of a step - head on - so you don't see what they have just come up. (most of mine are like this :rolleyes: ) Pretty unspectacular - but the easy shot to get in focus - but it's the shot that a lot of press guys take at the WTC or BTC, and unfortunately you really have to stand you're ground if you're in a good position and then the leading riders appear accompanied by the press crew.

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I bought a Sony DSC-V1, its very small which is great for carrying around but makes it hard to hold without obscuring something important with your fingers and means the battery is small, turning the screen off helps recover battery capacity. It has two big plusses for action shots though. One is that it has almost no shutter lag (no more pics of back wheels) the other is that it can be set to continuous focus so forget about holding the shutter halfway down, just pan with the rider and shoot when you want

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Reasonably priced- Canon 10D. About 1400 USD, body only. 6 MP equivilent to about a good 8x10 print at 300 dpi. Loads of features. No shutter lag. I've had lots of experience with this camera in the studio and am very impressed with its capabilities. I would think it would make a great camera for capturing trials action with the right lens attached.

Expensive- Canon 1Ds. About 8,000USD. 12MP, should produce 16x20 or larger digital print at very food quality. I used one last week and was very impressed with its ability to render fine detail and color. Unbelievable focusing capability, no shutter lag. For the guy that has to have the best in digital cameras, this is the one.

In the film world, any 35mm camera that has aperature priority metering, and the ability to interchange lenses could produce excellent trials photography.

Just remember that much like in the sport of trials, the machine only plays a part in the overall results...so it is with a camera. the best camera in the world is only part of the equation for producing good photography.

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Reasonably priced- Canon 10D. About 1400 USD, body only. 6 MP equivilent to about a good 8x10 print at 300 dpi. Loads of features. No shutter lag. I've had lots of experience with this camera in the studio and am very impressed with its capabilities. I would think it would make a great camera for capturing trials action with the right lens attached.

That's what I've got. Love it, though still learning this whole SLR thing :rolleyes:

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What I do want to know is how do I set the camera to get the rider to come out in focus in a picture like this.

This is NOT a focus issue, its one of not using a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the rider. If you look carefully, you'll see that the area of focus extends on either side of the rider. What's happening in this picture is that the rider is moving within the frame while the shutter remains open. Use a faster shutter speed if you have the ability to set it, or alternatively if you have no control over the shutter settings, you'll need to use a faster film/higher ISO in order to have the shutter fire at a higher rate of speed.

Hope this helps-

GaryT

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Hi all,

I'm looking forward to seeing Andy's Sheffield pics......he's got the equipment to get good pics, including the fantastic Canon EX550 flash.

Pics below were both ISO400, F3.5, 125thsec.

Yup!, pre-focus is the order of the day.......

fuji.jpg

tyre.jpg

Ian.

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I'm looking forward to seeing Andy's Sheffield pics......he's got the equipment to get good pics, including the fantastic Canon EX550 flash.

You swine - now if they're crap everybody will laugh ;)

I've spent hours today trying to find a stockist online for the external battery pack for the 550ex - that thing eats batteries. Jessops quote 4-6 weeks delivery. Everything, unless they have it in stock, takes forever to get hold of with that lot. A few phone calls tomorrow methinks.

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I've spent hours today trying to find a stockist online for the external battery pack for the 500ex - that thing eats batteries. Jessops quote 4-6 weeks delivery. Everything, unless they have it in stock, takes forever to get hold of with that lot. A few phone calls tomorrow methinks.

Andy,

Well, the EX550 was fine with batteries, I did worry about it at the time (pocketfuls of spares!)......but I only need one set at Sheffield and even then the battery indicator never lit.

Your Sheffield pics will be fine........just get as close as you bloomin' can to the bikes, open the lens wide and let the Canon flash do it's thang!

PS. Be prepared to wrestle for position with the other photographers as well as those pesky video boys.

Ian.

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