Please could someone enlighten me as to the proper method of removing the carb on my Rev-3? I have a long and infamous history of mechanical ineptitude so I'd appreciate the skinny before I give in and attack it with my favorite rubber mallet.

Thanks!

Undo both Jubilee clips at either end of the carb, pull back the airbox rubber hose and twist the carb out towards you.

Make sure the fuel is turned off before removing the fuel inlet tubing.

Undo the big round cap at the top of the carb by holding it steady and unthread the carb from the cap (this prevents you twisting/shagging the throttle cable).

Less than 2 minutes to take off and then you can use the big hammer on the jets

You will soon find that getting the carb out isn't necessarily the problem... its getting it back in that takes patience.

I find it easier to completely dismount the airbox so I can get the airbox boot back over the carb - I made a small 'J' hook out of a coat hanger that I use to coax the last bit of rubber back over the carb body.

The sad part is that I usually do all of this without having the jubilee clamp in place and have to do the whole thing all over again - I getting pretty good at it now.

OBTW - Make sure the carb locator tang (on top of the throat) fits in the receiving slot on the intake boot AND make sure you push the carb ALL the way in. Then MAKE SURE all your clamps are on tightly! And then check them again.

Edited May 17, 200422 yr by clarkp

Thanks guys. I could get the carb off my old Gasser in about 3 minutes flat (which necessitated removing the airbox and all associated gubbins), but since this is the first time I've attacked the Beta (I use the word "attacked" deliberately), I thought I'd check. You know how it is.

I mentioned this in a previous post but the amount of online technical information about the Betas seems to be very poor compared to GasGas. Whenever I had a problem with the TXT, exploded diagrams and part lists were only a few clicks away; both GasGas UK and USA's web sites contains reams of useful information, wiring diagrams going all the way back to '95, jetting charts, setup recommendations etc. After a month's searching, all I've managed to find for the Rev-3 is Billy T's (very informative) carb setup page.

The obvious flippant conclusion is that Betas don't break down as often as Gassers and subsequently there's not the same demand for the information but I don't really believe that that's true. Beta and GasGas seem to be about equal in terms of popularity these days and I'm sure that John Lampkin could shift even more if prospective owners knew that technical information and parts lists were easily available should problems arise. Hell, it'd probably save THEM time and money when trying to sort out parts orders if customers could simply quote the manufacturer's reference number.

Thinking about it, Beta aren't the only offender in this regard by a long shot. Brochureware sites are like sooooo 1990s, guys: People expect more these days. It doesn't take much effort to scan and PDF a service manual.

Bleugh.

well if u want a parts in pdf format here you go http://www.kdmototrials.com.au/show_menu.php?menuID=193

I find it easier to completely dismount the airbox so I can get the airbox boot back over the carb - I made a small 'J' hook out of a coat hanger that I use to coax the last bit of rubber back over the carb body.

The sad part is that I usually do all of this without having the jubilee clamp in place and have to do the whole thing all over again - I getting pretty good at it now.

It's possible to do it with the airbox in place but I admit that it is pretty fiddly.

I always leave the Jubilee clip off until the rubber boot is seated, then undo it completely and open it wide enough to go around the boot.

Simple'ish

well if u want a parts in pdf format here you go http://www.kdmototrials.com.au/show_menu.php?menuID=193

Thanks bb, that's very useful - bookmarked.

But even those lists are incomplete (mine's a 2003 and the brake, clutch and suspensions sections only go up to 2001) and why'd we have to go to freakin' Australia for it?

Just sayin'.

But even those lists are incomplete (mine's a 2003 and the brake, clutch and suspensions sections only go up to 2001) and why'd we have to go to freakin' Australia for it?

Just sayin'.

Because we speak English?

But even those lists are incomplete (mine's a 2003 and the brake, clutch and suspensions sections only go up to 2001) and why'd we have to go to freakin' Australia for it?

Just sayin'.

Because we speak English?

All I'm saying is that I'd have thought the UK importers would make that kind of information available themselves. No offense to our antipodean friends!

I'll correct myself and say that the PDF for the 2003 models on the kdmototrials site is pretty complete so once again, thanks bb!

One thing that will make installing and removing the carb easier is to radius the edges of the carb body at the inlet and outlet. The castings are sharp edged and that makes it more difficult to work the boots over the ends. Just use a file, and be careful to clean up any filings afterward. On my 04 Rev3, there is just barely enough space between the airbox and the engine to get the carb in and out. But it is possible. Also a tad of grease or oil makes it slip in easier too.

Believe it or not, with a little practice you can get the carb back in as quick as getting it out. It is really quite easy and involves the removal of nothing.

I have rejetted my carb between loops and been back going in the time it takes most guys to fuel and have a quick drink between loops.

Aaron

On 5/18/2004 at 10:09 AM, amiller said:

Believe it or not, with a little practice you can get the carb back in as quick as getting it out. It is really quite easy and involves the removal of nothing.

I have rejetted my carb between loops and been back going in the time it takes most guys to fuel and have a quick drink between loops.

Aaron

Hi Andy!  I used to ride the D4 with you guys.  I had a 99 Montesa.  Now I have an '01 Beta Rev 3 which won't start.  It sputters, but no run.  Decent spark, gas and 140# compression.  I suspect stator or CDI.  Do you have any parts just in case?  Thanks

Quality of spark and its location can be an issue with an 01. You may be well served by just ripping the stator out and sending it to have its trigger coil checked/rewound. As in it’s either gone, going or going to go bad.