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You can download a free (full) workshop manual from the USA Beta website.I was surprised to find it and grabbed a copy in case it goes away. It is for the 2010 model.

There are 2 things you must do to learn how to lift the rear wheel (actually moving it in the desired direction and sticking the landing are more difficult). You have probably already done the first thing. That is to lock the front brake and push down firmly on the handle bars. You must try this to understand that it doesn't work. Next stradle the bike with the engine off, hands on the bars, and your feet on the ground. You should be in neutral or at least have the clutch lever pulled in. Next, push the bars FORWARD. It only takes 30 or 40 lbs of force to raise the rear end until the seat hits your backside. You have now learned the "secret" that makes it look easy. Now crank it up and go try it as you are stopping. You will learn to control the height of the rear wheel by front brake force and bar input. The same thing applies when doing stationary hops, but since you do not have momentum to assist, bar input is much more important.

Paxdad, The sanitary way is to buy a new triple clamp. Not sure who has it, but someone probably does. RYP can surely help or at least give you a name. The budget way that works fine is what several Beta riders including myself did on our Rev3s. Buy a set of Pro Taper oversize bar adapters. They bolt on to the lower bar clamp. The set up looks fine and is absolutely no strength compromise. The clamps will raise the bar height 20mm. You can then run the bar bend that Pro Taper calls the Factory Suzuki/KTM bend. They are similar in width and sweep to a trials bend, but have a 20mm lower rise. With the cross bar pad, the clamps do not even show. Are you an STRA member? Are you coming to Trackrock next weekend. I may already know you by your real name, but I can't remember who in the club rides a 125 Sherco.

I have a buddy who has one of these on his GasGas. It really works. db Snorkel.com

John Doe is correct. Do NOT use any strong caustic on your aluminum muffler. The best way is to burn it out using a propane torch. Contrary to what was said, it would very difficult to melt the thing unless you have a huge torch. The method I have used 6 times on my 2004 Rev3 is to clamp the unit vertically with the large end down. You MUST do this outdoors. Use the torch to ignite the residue. After it reached a certain temperature, the chimney effect will aid in the combustion. Keep at it until the residue stops burning. After letting it cool, you can reach inside with a piece of folded metal banding (shipping strap) or anything else that might help scrape out the ash. The packing appears to be Kevlar fiber. Mine has remained undamaged through all of these cleanings. An alternate method would be solvent or a less aggressive cleaner. If you use solvent, you have to buy it and dispose of it, and it probably doesn't work as well. Ditto for the cleaner, but more so. BTW, this should be a regular maintenance item on a Rev3. The cleanout will make such a difference to power and clean running that you will be amazed.

ProTaper makes a bushing set they call Bar Liners that allow you to use 7/8" bars in 1 1/8" clamps. They retail for $22. BTW, They also now sell trials bars in 3 heights, but they are only available in 7/8".

Hi Phil, Depending on your abilities, this is a doable project. You need a spool of 30ga magnet wire. In the US, this is readily available from McMaster Carr. A 1/2 lb spool has 6150 ft and costs about $15.00. You will also need a roll of fiberglass cloth electrical tape (also available from McMaster Carr) and a container of epoxy cement. The stator has about 256 billion turns (or so it seems) so you will not be able to wind it properly by hand. Also, the stock windings are potted in epoxy so they are impossible to just unwind. When I did mine, I lost track of the direction and I am pretty certain I wound it backward. I made a fixture to hold the unit in my lathe. Due the shape of the laminations, it is tricky getting the windings all the way to the ends. I made a simple tool out of some 1/8" brass tubing to help place the wire. The wire is .006" in diameter including the enamel. This means it is not very strong. To make sure it did not break part way through the process, I made a ball bearing pay off mechanism by modifying a skate board wheel truck. I also added a spring steel strip that rubbed on the flange of the spool and acted as a brake so it would not coast and create a bird nest. I mounted the payoff and spool behind me and to the side. The wire passed through the tubing tool and I guided it by hand. I set the lathe to run about 150 rpm. At that speed, it took 15 minutes or so to lay on the wire. I had a very even job and I am certain that that part of the project was done ok. I had to use a magnifying glass to solder the connections. I coated the windings with epoxy to seal them from moisture. After that setup, I wrapped with the glass cloth tape and epoxied over that. I am certain that everything was done correctly with the exception of the winding direction. I could not get the bike to start, but as I was attempting to push start on a hill, I rolled it backward and if fired in the reverse direction. In the end, I got tired of messing with it and just bought a new coil. I think that I only paid about $150 or so from Beta USA. If you decide to do it, and want help, post back. I may have some pics of the set up in case my description is unclear. Good luck.

This is a very bad idea. Don't do it. You can be seriously injured or die if your bars break at an inopportune time. I have first hand knowledge. If my bars had broken just one hour later than they did, I would have ripped my arm open to the bone and possibly bled to death in the woods. Also, if you use conventional (7/8") bars you should also replace them yearly even if they are not bent. I don't mean any offense, I just don't want anyone to get hurt.

I couldn't say for sure about the 125, but the bigger Betas are sensitive to the exhaust system condition. I would clean the mid muffler and repack the silencer. It makes a huge difference on my 270. I would guess than the smaller bike is even more sensitive.

ProTaper Contour series is what I use. It has no brace. They are $62.99 at Chapparral. They are listed as "Factory Suzuki" bend, but it is also the KTM stock bend. 800mm wide, 92mm rise, 47mm pullback. Available in 4 colors and the price included a pad. Don't forget what I said about the shot peened surface. Less chance of cracking at some future time. Read my article on handlecar safety in the Technical Articles section (under "Other" on the home page) and you will know why I think handlebars are such a big deal. Whichever brand you go with though, I think it will be a big improvement.

IMHO, You guys are heading in the wrong direction with different triple clamp, etc. The ProTaper adapter clamps give 3/4 " rise. If you check the ProTaper chart and the Renthal chart, you will find that the Factory Suzuki bend has approximately the same width and sweep as Renthal Kuroyama bars, EXCEPT they are 19mm lower. Since 19mm is pretty much equal to 3/4", you will have the same effect as before, but a much better setup. I used to change bars yearly for safety reasons, but I put on a set of ProTapers on my '04 Rev3 in 2005 and only recently changed them. Over hundreds of hours of riding and probably an equal number of crashes, I never managed to bend them. I only changed them because of wear under the throttle tube. You engineer types will appreciate that ProTaper bars are shot peened, which gives them a fatigue life far in excess of most of their competitiors. Take Titanium's advice and spend the money you will save on a set of ARC folding levers (RYP). You will then have a pretty much unbreakable set up.

Thanks a lot for the information. You obviously know what you are doing so please, keep it coming.

Bodgit, You have 2 sources for oil (assuming no nut put oil in your coolant as you mentioned). One is the gearbox, the other is the engine. Generally, the cooling system runs at enough pressure that coolant enters the gearbox and not vice-versa. My guess is that a head o-ring is allowing a small amount of cylinder charge to leak into the coolant passage. The problem with this theory is that this will over pressurize the coolant system and you will have overflow from the radiator cap. As for oil, a lot of people ran Dexron atf in their Techno gearbox. I used to have a '96 Techno and tried atf, but had better results from the Elf gear lube. I now use Maxima 75W gear lube in my Rev3 and I find that engagement is smoother with it than with atf. If you really want to pin down the oil source, you could fill the trans with Dexron and change your coolant. If the oil getting in the coolant has a red tint, then you have found the source. But my bet is it will not be. Please let us know what you find.

jes42, I think you may find some answers here. One note- the 5th suspension article is incorrectly listed as "handlebar safety" in the table of contents. Just pick it and you will get part 5. Trials Central Technical Articles Good Luck

BenJ, Before doing the top end, you should try cleaning out your exhaust system. I have an '04 with probably over 600 hours on it and the orginal top end. I have cleaned the exhaust a several tiimes and each time I am amazed with the improvement. It will return the power and throttle response that you have lost. It is easy to replace the final silencer packing, but every couple of times, you need to clean the mid muffler too. You can read the article on exhaust cleaning on this website (click the "Other" link on the home page) for details. After a clean out, I promise that with a 270, you will not be wanting for more power.