Improving A Sherps 350

[branc]

Hi all

Im in the process of buying a 199model 350 sherpa, the bike is pretty original but I would like to know the best mods to improve the bike, maybe along the lines of electronic ignition, new carb maybe and some brakes would be nice also what improvements can be made to the steering and handling of these beasts?

cheers

[swooshdave]

Hi all

Im in the process of buying a 199model 350 sherpa, the bike is pretty original but I would like to know the best mods to improve the bike, maybe along the lines of electronic ignition, new carb maybe and some brakes would be nice also what improvements can be made to the steering and handling of these beasts?

cheers

I didn't think these bikes needed anything done to them, aside from making sure everything is up to snuff.

[woody]

As said, not much needs doing really.

If the Bing isn't worn then they run perfectly well on these, no need to change it, just make sure it is set up correctly. Brakes with stoppy/front endo power aren't really needed in classic trials as there is nowhere that you have to turn on the spot and disappear back up the path you've just come down. If the chrome has pitted badly it will wear the shoes out quicker but steel linered hubs are available on an exchange from Bultaco UK if you really need them.

I really wouldn't bother trying to alter the steering. Yes, Bultos are a bit long compared to other bikes and you either like them or not, but classic sections these days are nowhere near as hard as the sections being ridden when the bike was new so there is nothing that it can't be steered around. You could try 10mm longer rear shocks to quicken it slightly - Falcon do different length shock top mounts that allow a bit of experimentation.

Electronic ignition is personal choice really. It won't give the bike any more power but you can forget about failing points and condensors. Mine and my mate's Bultos are on points and no problems with any of them.

Just get everything set up as it should be, forks working well (I find them under damped) shocks, carb, timing etc. and the bike will perform well. One of the best trials motors the 325 Bulto, big flywheels let it drop to nothing in the first three gears and the power will easily let it pick up again without slipping the clutch. Pulls like a train. Luvverly

[lee harris]

Or change the frame to a 240, add a 303 engine and a red tank.....

only kidding

[branc]

Thanks for that, I dont want to really change much im just looking for the best basic set up to be honest, dont know much about these bikes but a few of my mates have them and I really like them, they pull like a train and are like nothing else I have ridden in terms of traction, the points ignition was my main concern as I didnt fancy being in a river and them getting wet but it seems they are ok then so ill prob stick with them for the minute if they work.

So next question is what should the timing be set at, what length should the rear shocks be as the ones fitted at the mo are non original and what fork oil should be used ant what amount, air gap etc?

thanks again

[woody]

Timing and front forks will come down to personal preference eventually as not everyone likes the same set up.

A starting point for timing would be 2.5 - 3mm BTDC although it can be anywhere between 1.5 - 3.5. I normally go for 2mm as I like a lazy motor off the bottom so I can plonk it without the clutch. Too retarded though and it will run backwards very easily and can cause much hilarity for your mates, potentialy much physical pain for yourself.

Not sure about the air gap on the forks as I do it by volume. Start with say 180cc in each leg and as the Bulto damping is quite soft I'd start with 15W oil. Modern 2.5 and 5W fork oil wasn't around when these forks were designed and generally it's too thin, turning them into pogo sticks.

Can't remember the rear shock length off the top of my head but most bikes are 13.4 inches from the centre to centre of the mounting bush. Check on Falcon Shocks website as it gives the shock lengths for all bikes.

Going back to the points, they are generally very reliable. If you're riding it in water, just take the usual precaution of ensuring that the timing cover is completely sealed to prevent water getting in. Always a good idea too, to take it off periodically and make sure it is definitely dry in there. If it does get in it may not get to the points but it can do the main bearing/seal no good if there is silt in it.

[fsb]

Hi.

I used an 200mm (7,9") air gap I think. For a progressiv charakteristic I actually use 120mm in my Enduro but I wasn't sure if the old fork should be filled up with so much oil. Maybe the seals don't like this higher pressure and leak after a while. I also used a heavier oil, it was Sae 20 fork oil if I remember correctly.

My ignition timing is 2,4mm BTDC and I put the condenser under the fuel tank because the stator becomes pretty hot.

13,4" is correct as standard size and there should be 3" travel. Some new shocks have a travel of 4".

Felix

Edited August 19, 2008 by FSB

[branc]

Brilliant, thanks for all the info, that gives me a good baseline for my new project, ill post a pic as soon as i pick it up.

[paulmac]

I've put 350mm Falcons (4inch travel) on the rear of my 198b and they're sopt on - as Woody says it tightens up the front just a nadge...

Paul Mac

Edited August 19, 2008 by paulmac