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fsb

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  1. fsb

    Faster clutch...

    You have to change the ratio between hand-move and clutch-move. It has nothing to do with the stiffness of the clutch... This you can do with an other ratio from lever length to the length which pushes the piston in. Then you'd need a different lever. An other way would be to change the ratio of the two pistons (piston of the brake main cylinder and piston at the clutch). The main brak cylinder needs a larger piston, so that you push more fluid downwards with the same hand-movement. This would bring you the wanted behaviour. Of course you need more force with this modification, but you said that this would be ok. bye, Felix
  2. Yes, a picture would help to find out which shocks you have. On my '72 Sherpa I had the non-rebuildable Betor shocks but nevertheless I rebuilded them. But you need a lathe if you want to rebuild such shocks and a dealer who sells seals, because of course they aren't available for shocks which can't be rebuilded. bye, Felix
  3. Exactly the same thing I've found out too and I also lean the bike sidewards with the tickler hole upwards. Martin: Does the spark plug gets wet when you try to start it or is it still dry? If it's dry it definitely is a carby problem... bye, Felix
  4. fsb

    Bultaco M80 Front Hub

    Thank you Tim, I've wrote him an e-mail. bye, Felix
  5. Hi guys. The hub of my front wheel is broken as you can see. Is anybody out there who can offer me such a hub? I tried it at bultaco.co.uk but unfortunately they don't have one. Also ebay wasn't successfully. Thanks, Felix
  6. fsb

    Sherpa M-80 Exhaust

    Hi. I repacked my silencers in two different ways. The tail pipe I sawed and welded after burning out and repacking it. In the midbox I cut a hole, burned out the carbon of the holes in the perforated tube and fixed a sheet metal with clinches as you can see. I used a piece from an old tube to seal it and it works perfectly. If I understand you correctly you perforated tube is loose. Mine was it too and so I machined a ring from aluminium in the lathe which I pressed in the midbox - this also works properly. Or you just weld it together with 3 welding-points as it came originally from Bultaco. bye, Felix
  7. Maybe you want to look at Jens M
  8. fsb

    Unleaded Fuel

    Isn't that what I was talking about? Or did I write a little bit weird (I'm from Germany so english is not my mother tongue). bye, Felix
  9. fsb

    Bultaco M-80

    The NGK BP5ES is good, I also use this one. I run 1:40 with either semi synthetic or fully synthetic oil. Semi synthetic I use for the braking in procedure and fully synthetic after that. I use fuel from the pump with ROZ 91 or 95. My Bulto runs fine with it. bye, Felix
  10. fsb

    Unleaded Fuel

    I use unleaded fuel (ROZ 91) from the pump with 1:40 fully synthetic oil. This stuff works well on mine, so I can't see any thing why I should change. Why doesn't Bultaco UK recommend the fully synthetic oil? I don't use it for the running in procedure but after that I can't see any disadvantages due to this oil. bye, Felix
  11. I have the same problem sometimes and I also don't know why the petrol doesn't get into the cumbustion chamber... Maybe I have to figure out if it will help to lean the bike sidewards with the tickler-hole upside, so that more petrol gets into the carb. Did you tried to put a little amount of petrol in the motor through the sparkplug hole? This helps starting my engine, but of course it's annoying. Also checking ignition timing didn't solve my problems so that I think that the cause of this bad start behaviour is my old piston-cylinder with worn piston rings. Do you know the condition of your piston/cylinder? If yours is worn out too, we probably have found the reason for our problems. Bye, Felix
  12. Hi. I've done this a few times and I can tell you it's a ****ty work, due to the hardened material of the crankwebs. First you have to figure out what balancing the crankshaft has at the moment and what balancing you need. The balancing is declared in %, so have to find out how much % the original crank mechanism from your 350t has and what you have to change at the Pursang crank. Obviously you already know sth. about balancing, so you understand how to calculate the percentages, right? And then you need two prism to messeaure your actual balancing percentage. If you need to increase the balancing percentage, you have to remove material around the lower conrod-end. Otherwise you have to fill the holes with some material, e.g. aluminium or steel, depending on how much weight you need to get your correct balance. In my case I had to remove material around the lower conrod-end and so I used a drill and a chamfer with 1/4" shaft (like these ones: http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/im.../W690877-05.jpg. I calculated who much steel I have to remove and fortunately it was only one percent away from my wanted balance. If you have questions about measuring the balance I could translate a german article for you in which it is described very good. I hope I could help a little bit. bye, Felix
  13. Thank you guys. bye, Felix
  14. Hi. Just wondering which oil I have to use for the gearbox from my 250cm
  15. The rubber between the first part of the exhaust and the mid box only seals on my sherpa (1972). There is no gap between them. The first part is about 1-2" inside of the mid box. If you want to take a look at the inside of the mid box you can cut out a piece of it, maybe repair and repack it and put it together by using clinches and a piece of sheet metal. Of course you can weld it if you want to but I didn't have any welding skills :-). I described in the Montesa forum how I did it with the clinches. http://s8b.directupload.net/file/d/1835/mnz6ymj5_jpg.htm bye, Felix
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