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You have to change the ratio between hand-move and clutch-move. It has nothing to do with the stiffness of the clutch... This you can do with an other ratio from lever length to the length which pushes the piston in. Then you'd need a different lever. An other way would be to change the ratio of the two pistons (piston of the brake main cylinder and piston at the clutch). The main brak cylinder needs a larger piston, so that you push more fluid downwards with the same hand-movement. This would bring you the wanted behaviour. Of course you need more force with this modification, but you said that this would be ok. bye, Felix

Yes, a picture would help to find out which shocks you have. On my '72 Sherpa I had the non-rebuildable Betor shocks but nevertheless I rebuilded them. But you need a lathe if you want to rebuild such shocks and a dealer who sells seals, because of course they aren't available for shocks which can't be rebuilded. bye, Felix

Exactly the same thing I've found out too and I also lean the bike sidewards with the tickler hole upwards. Martin: Does the spark plug gets wet when you try to start it or is it still dry? If it's dry it definitely is a carby problem... bye, Felix

Thank you Tim, I've wrote him an e-mail. bye, Felix

Hi guys. The hub of my front wheel is broken as you can see. Is anybody out there who can offer me such a hub? I tried it at bultaco.co.uk but unfortunately they don't have one. Also ebay wasn't successfully. Thanks, Felix

Hi. I repacked my silencers in two different ways. The tail pipe I sawed and welded after burning out and repacking it. In the midbox I cut a hole, burned out the carbon of the holes in the perforated tube and fixed a sheet metal with clinches as you can see. I used a piece from an old tube to seal it and it works perfectly. If I understand you correctly you perforated tube is loose. Mine was it too and so I machined a ring from aluminium in the lathe which I pressed in the midbox - this also works properly. Or you just weld it together with 3 welding-points as it came originally from Bultaco. bye, Felix

Maybe you want to look at Jens M

Isn't that what I was talking about? Or did I write a little bit weird (I'm from Germany so english is not my mother tongue). bye, Felix

The NGK BP5ES is good, I also use this one. I run 1:40 with either semi synthetic or fully synthetic oil. Semi synthetic I use for the braking in procedure and fully synthetic after that. I use fuel from the pump with ROZ 91 or 95. My Bulto runs fine with it. bye, Felix

I use unleaded fuel (ROZ 91) from the pump with 1:40 fully synthetic oil. This stuff works well on mine, so I can't see any thing why I should change. Why doesn't Bultaco UK recommend the fully synthetic oil? I don't use it for the running in procedure but after that I can't see any disadvantages due to this oil. bye, Felix

I have the same problem sometimes and I also don't know why the petrol doesn't get into the cumbustion chamber... Maybe I have to figure out if it will help to lean the bike sidewards with the tickler-hole upside, so that more petrol gets into the carb. Did you tried to put a little amount of petrol in the motor through the sparkplug hole? This helps starting my engine, but of course it's annoying. Also checking ignition timing didn't solve my problems so that I think that the cause of this bad start behaviour is my old piston-cylinder with worn piston rings. Do you know the condition of your piston/cylinder? If yours is worn out too, we probably have found the reason for our problems. Bye, Felix

Hi. I've done this a few times and I can tell you it's a ****ty work, due to the hardened material of the crankwebs. First you have to figure out what balancing the crankshaft has at the moment and what balancing you need. The balancing is declared in %, so have to find out how much % the original crank mechanism from your 350t has and what you have to change at the Pursang crank. Obviously you already know sth. about balancing, so you understand how to calculate the percentages, right? And then you need two prism to messeaure your actual balancing percentage. If you need to increase the balancing percentage, you have to remove material around the lower conrod-end. Otherwise you have to fill the holes with some material, e.g. aluminium or steel, depending on how much weight you need to get your correct balance. In my case I had to remove material around the lower conrod-end and so I used a drill and a chamfer with 1/4" shaft (like these ones: http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/im.../W690877-05.jpg. I calculated who much steel I have to remove and fortunately it was only one percent away from my wanted balance. If you have questions about measuring the balance I could translate a german article for you in which it is described very good. I hope I could help a little bit. bye, Felix

Thank you guys. bye, Felix

Hi. Just wondering which oil I have to use for the gearbox from my 250cm

The rubber between the first part of the exhaust and the mid box only seals on my sherpa (1972). There is no gap between them. The first part is about 1-2" inside of the mid box. If you want to take a look at the inside of the mid box you can cut out a piece of it, maybe repair and repack it and put it together by using clinches and a piece of sheet metal. Of course you can weld it if you want to but I didn't have any welding skills :-). I described in the Montesa forum how I did it with the clinches. http://s8b.directupload.net/file/d/1835/mnz6ymj5_jpg.htm bye, Felix

Hello. Of course the wire for the camera was in the cupboard one feet away from me but unfortunately covered by some stuff... Here some pictures, maybe they'll help someone who don't want to weld or who don't have the opportunity to weld. http://s6b.directupload.net/file/d/1828/kwryneyi_jpg.htm Now I saw that I didn't use as much clinches as I thought but nevertheless it doesn't leak. Here another view of the whole silencer so that you can imagine what I described as "flat areas": http://s11b.directupload.net/file/d/1828/tvsrs27w_jpg.htm The second silencer at the rear of the bike I repacked by cut it off, burn everything out, put new material in it and welded it together. I did this one year before I had the idea with the clinches but the clinch-solution had work there as well. Now my Bulto is as quiet as it was new. bye, Felix

Hello. Sorry for this late answer but I dont't look up new posts often. Unfortunately I can't find the cable for my camera at the moment. I will upload some pictures when I find it. Maybe it'll help when I describe my solution. At my Bultaco silencer there are some flat areas, so I bored a 0,6inch hole in it and started at this hole to cut out a piece from 2inch length and 1,5inch width with a scissor for sheet metal. Then I repacked the silencer properly and cut out a new sheet metal from 3inch length and 2,5inch width. After that I adapted this new sheet metal at the shape of the silencer und cut out a piece of an old tire tube in the same shape like the new sheet metal. And then I fixed the new sheet metal and the rubber at the silencer with a screw clamp and bored approx. 10 holes for the clinches. I decided to use a clinch every 0,6inch so that there is a proper clamping force and therefore a good seal. I rode it for about 20hours and it still doesn't leak... bye, Felix

If you don't want to weld it you also can clinch a sheet of metal on the hole which you cut in for repacking it. I did so on my bultaco and used a piece of rubber from an old air tube to seal it. I can take a photo of it if you want to see it... bye, Felix

It's a common problem when pistons are used too long. The clearence between piston and cylinder increases and the piston starts to rattle. And after a while the pistons breaks. Just keep an eye on the operating hours of your engine in future and dismount your top end after 100 hours to do some measurements. There should be some information for cylinder/piston wear in your manual. Do you have something like Aluminium-powder in your crankhouse or are there just some broken bits from your piston? Does the crank still rotate smooth or does it stick/clamp in some positions? Safest thing would be to install a new conrod kit with new bearings but maybe you just have to clean it. It's difficulty to say without seeing it by myself. Don't you have a good dealer who could take a look to your motor? bye, Felix

Have you already tried to mount the needle in a richer position or to richen the idle by turning the idle-screw clockwise? Bye, Felix

Hi. It's nice to know that I am not the only one who had this problem. This summer my Bulto also didn't react after I pulled off the plug cap, it just screamed on till I stopped it by using the rear brake. Fortunately the engine didn't seize. Bye, Felix.

Hello. In August I had the same problem but not Dave made a mistake. The shipment to Germany needed 5 weeks... bye, Felix

http://www.shop.enduroweltmeister.de/onlin.../shop/index.php Klick on "Verkleidungsteile" in the index at the left site of the page. I don't know if they have a different shape but this shop has universal aluminium fenders. The price is halve of this from spain, but I don't know if Jens M

Hi. I used an 200mm (7,9") air gap I think. For a progressiv charakteristic I actually use 120mm in my Enduro but I wasn't sure if the old fork should be filled up with so much oil. Maybe the seals don't like this higher pressure and leak after a while. I also used a heavier oil, it was Sae 20 fork oil if I remember correctly. My ignition timing is 2,4mm BTDC and I put the condenser under the fuel tank because the stator becomes pretty hot. 13,4" is correct as standard size and there should be 3" travel. Some new shocks have a travel of 4". Felix

Hi. I have found out that my O-ring from the idle screw is damaged. Now I wonder if this gasket/seal set http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AMAL-genuine-gasket-...1QQcmdZViewItem would be right for my Amal MK1. Can anyone help me? edit: Just have seen that this auction ends in 20 minutes, but would a seal set for an Amal Mk1 600/900 be right for me? Is the 627 of my Bulto just a special type of the 600 series due to its size (27mm)? Thanks, Felix.