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Fatbars On Rev 3

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Will i have to change both the bar clamps and the yoke on my 03 Rev 3 to fit Fatbars?

Get a set of fat bar adapters, they will add some rise, about 3/4" I think. Then get a set of pro tapers in the suzuki factory bend. This combo is very close to renthal kuroyama 7/8" bars

Should cost around $125 u.s. dollars for the whole setup

  • Author
Get a set of fat bar adapters, they will add some rise, about 3/4" I think. Then get a set of pro tapers in the suzuki factory bend. This combo is very close to renthal kuroyama 7/8" bars

Should cost around $125 u.s. dollars for the whole setup

I'm planning to get a set of these for mine soon.

S3 Adjustable Handlebar Clamps

S3%20bar%20clamps%20with%20bars.JPG

These will give a bit of rise, which I need. Someone makes one similar but with a bit less rise, but I forget where I saw them.

Are the bar clamps removable on the Rev3 then? Havnt actually looked.

Pete, You could make them at work

I could yeah, or if the standard clamps are removable i could just bore them out to suit fatter bars.

The bottom half of the Rev3 bar clamps are actually part of the top triple clamp casting itself. The bottom plate of the S3 adapters screws into them. The S3 clamps (regular or oversize) are attached to the bottom plate. If you look closely at the pic you'll see 3 pieces in the kit and that the bottom plate is actually machined to fit down into the stock clamp where the bar would be. Just need to toss the top half of your stock clamps in the bin and bolt these puppies on.

Edited by mrkartoom

  • Author
surly the rise is gunna be massive

Riser clamps and high rise bars might be too much. I might just take my yoke off bore it out.

Riser clamps and high rise bars might be too much. I might just take my yoke off bore it out.

Or just keep the bars you got on it already

surly the rise is gunna be massive
Looks like just over an inch. . . 30mm or so. Not so bad if you're taller and cramped a bit like me. Not sure how you'd mill out the stock clamps with the little meat on the top pieces. I'd have to look at them again, but maybe you guys already have.

V-mar top yoke and clamps will fix it properly, otherwise as Titanium says! :D

  • Author
V-mar top yoke and clamps will fix it properly, otherwise as Titanium says! :D

Only available in black though?

IMHO,

You guys are heading in the wrong direction with different triple clamp, etc. The ProTaper adapter clamps give 3/4 " rise. If you check the ProTaper chart and the Renthal chart, you will find that the Factory Suzuki bend has approximately the same width and sweep as Renthal Kuroyama bars, EXCEPT they are 19mm lower. Since 19mm is pretty much equal to 3/4", you will have the same effect as before, but a much better setup. I used to change bars yearly for safety reasons, but I put on a set of ProTapers on my '04 Rev3 in 2005 and only recently changed them. Over hundreds of hours of riding and probably an equal number of crashes, I never managed to bend them. I only changed them because of wear under the throttle tube. You engineer types will appreciate that ProTaper bars are shot peened, which gives them a fatigue life far in excess of most of their competitiors. Take Titanium's advice and spend the money you will save on a set of ARC folding levers (RYP). You will then have a pretty much unbreakable set up.

:D

IMHO,

You guys are heading in the wrong direction with different triple clamp, etc. The ProTaper adapter clamps give 3/4 " rise. If you check the ProTaper chart and the Renthal chart, you will find that the Factory Suzuki bend has approximately the same width and sweep as Renthal Kuroyama bars, EXCEPT they are 19mm lower. Since 19mm is pretty much equal to 3/4", you will have the same effect as before, but a much better setup. I used to change bars yearly for safety reasons, but I put on a set of ProTapers on my '04 Rev3 in 2005 and only recently changed them. Over hundreds of hours of riding and probably an equal number of crashes, I never managed to bend them. I only changed them because of wear under the throttle tube. You engineer types will appreciate that ProTaper bars are shot peened, which gives them a fatigue life far in excess of most of their competitiors. Take Titanium's advice and spend the money you will save on a set of ARC folding levers (RYP). You will then have a pretty much unbreakable set up.

:wacko:

I was sort of hinting at that, Ron. But now with the input of the "experienced crasher" it seems a done deal unless you have the bucks for the top clamp! All the same applies to the earlier Sherco models as well I think. Another good quote from you! :D Good input!

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