The front brake on my recently acquired TY 175 is beyond poor, even for a "modern" drum, much worse than I recall from the day. All seems OK with plenty of meat on the shoes and careful setting up but I'm going to try new shoes.

Does anyone's experience with these show that one make of replacement shoe is better than another and, if so, which is the one to go for?

Thanks

For optimum braking on any drum you need to have the shoes arced to match the drum and make a cable from a wire rope that has minimal stretch.

These 2 things make a world of difference.

And I always bought the least expensive brake shoes...they were generally the softest and didn't last as long but gave better braking.

I always figured that anything that made a shoe wear longer is probably harder and wouldn't give as much drag.

I tryed a lot of brakeshoes and defenetly the best are the EBC.Good braking and a long life.

Chrs:Mike

You have some type of problem. A TY175 should be able to do a nose wheelie. When you pull the hub off how much of the shoe is making contact with the drum? The comment above about contouring the shoe to the drum is important.

Take the wheel/hub off the bike and on a bench: chalk the shoe real well, place the hub in and rotate it while applying the brakes. Pull apart and see where the chalk is missing - sand down other areas. Usually have to repeat several times to get full contact.

You have some type of problem. A TY175 should be able to do a nose wheelie. When you pull the hub off how much of the shoe is making contact with the drum? The comment above about contouring the shoe to the drum is important.

Take the wheel/hub off the bike and on a bench: chalk the shoe real well, place the hub in and rotate it while applying the brakes. Pull apart and see where the chalk is missing - sand down other areas. Usually have to repeat several times to get full contact.

I usually put the axle through the hub/backing plate assembly, it makes it easier and sometimes has an effect on the contact patch.

Jon

Thanks for all the advice- I was wondering how best to establish the actual contact area.

If we were back in the 70s I would just get the shoes relined with thicker material and get it turned down in a lathe to suit the drum but nobody seems to reline these days. I recall as a teenager taking my Honda shoes in to the local brake shop and the guy just buffed off the linings on a grinder - I fear his last few months on this earth must have been rather unpleasant.

Edited May 19, 201115 yr by 2/4

Hi,

Im lucky and did find a first class old fashion industry machine shop, I did provide new drum diam, sent plates and worn shoes.

Perfect result same price as new shoes, but correct tolerance per worn drum/shoes :-)

Have read some other posting here how to get this job done in UK.

BR,

 

Thanks. 

Edited January 16, 20179 yr by motosolex

On 18/05/2011 at 10:13 AM, alan_nc said:

You have some type of problem. A TY175 should be able to do a nose wheelie. When you pull the hub off how much of the shoe is making contact with the drum? The comment above about contouring the shoe to the drum is important.

Take the wheel/hub off the bike and on a bench: chalk the shoe real well, place the hub in and rotate it while applying the brakes. Pull apart and see where the chalk is missing - sand down other areas. Usually have to repeat several times to get full contact.

Surely you sand the area were the chalk has gone from and not we're it still is. If the chalk is still there then that part of the shoe isn't in contact with the hub