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sherco 250 (03) is my stator dead


myzeneye
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managed to find these resistance readings for a "good" lleonelli sherco 250 stator .... will give it all a go....

Using the red lead to the plug terminals and black to earth.

Blue no reading (sometimes shown as 1 or error)

Brown 1000 to 1600

Black 1050 to 1650

Using the leads the other way around i.e. black lead to the coloured wires, red to earth.

Blue 600 to 730

Brown 650 to 770

Black 650 to 770

Also test the resistance's of the other coil wires, leads either way around.

White to red 95 ohms

Red to green 550 ohms

Green to white 640 ohms

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The exchange stators from Chris are repaired/ rebuilt by Steve at motoplat UK I believe. Steve is highly respected and seems to have few problems. Chris does everyone a great service by keeping these things on hand and available for either use or testing. Otherwise, you can send yours off for testing, but you may have a couple weeks downtime. :rolleyes:

I am sure there ia some warranty period.

New ones are too costly with little benifit over proper working unit..

Edited by copemech
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cheers copemech... gonna review finances tonight and see if i can scratch together enough to buy a new stator.. :rolleyes: dont see much point in any 2nd ebay jobbies, they are half the price but who knows how long they'l last... ?

any one know, if i buy a new one, do they carry any kind of guarentee or if the new one fails a few months down the line is it just hard luck ?

gonna get me a "racing loom" whilst im at it, i dont think i could get all the lighting circuits stuffed back in the frame enough to be what i would consider neat and tidy.... bloody wires !!!

one last thought....its a long shot..... before it died completley, nelly1 had an idea of blasting (and i mean blasting) the stator with wd40 incase it was wet..... wd40 is non conductive, right ? is it possible that this could be an issue, if so, any suggestions as to what i could use to remove the wd40 coating which is now all over the stator.... ??? i know the actual coils have some kind of laquer coating so i wouldnt know what to use and not stripp that off.... gotta be worth a shot beofre i start ordering parts.... :banana2:

In my impression things go something like this:

The basic components in stator are sealed and somewhat inert to water. I have seen then them run 1/4 full of water trapped in the cover.

The hall effect sensors(which according to Steve is what generally fails) are solid state units and sealed.

The wd40 does drive out moisture, and does seem relatively inert to the coil windings and such. Leaves something of a protective barier against corrosion and such. I would use air to blow out any excess and dry things a bit. I do not think WD is totally electrically inert, yet probably little difference here.

So all said, trapped moisture in there and corrosion cannot be good, yet doubtful it will save a faulty hall sensor. You still want to try to insure your mag cover is either sealing properly(which few do), is inspected and cleaned regularly(after wash) or vented(or both the latter). :thumbup:

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ok im ready to get sorted witht this stator. has anyone used motoplat for an overhaul/rewinding etc ? if so, good or bad ? any comments welcome before i send it out to them..... :)

Yes, many, as that seems the way to go and highly rated as compared to possibly some others. Downside here is time lost as compared to having exchange units in hand to isolate the problem yoursel.

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right, ive order all me bits from splat in the end for ease....should be here soon :)

ive ordered the new (exchange) stator and had to get a new digital cdi as well due to the ht being chopped by the fan.... i wouldnt like to think it being faulty had anything to do with my stator going so for peice of mind its a new cdi.

now, when i looked at how the bike was set up, timing wise, it seems the stator had been fully retarded to its absolute max..... ? i realise that this will make things softer etc and easier to start, but will it have had anything to do with the bike running stupid beserk hot ?

it was running fine temp wise untill recently when i had the big ends done.... maybe the timing was not put back as it was because a few weeks later is when i noticed the bike was about to burst into flames !! could running under such extreme condition cause stator overheat/death ??

anyway, my plan is to install the new gear to factory settings which i assume is the middle (neither advanced nor retarded).... is it normal for folk to retard the bike quite so much ? do many run it advanced or is that for the pro's who like to give it a good screaming ?

last question... i hear spraying the stator with clear laquer will help protect it ? is this true or is there something more specific i should use ?

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right, ive order all me bits from splat in the end for ease....should be here soon :)

ive ordered the new (exchange) stator and had to get a new digital cdi as well due to the ht being chopped by the fan.... i wouldnt like to think it being faulty had anything to do with my stator going so for peice of mind its a new cdi.

now, when i looked at how the bike was set up, timing wise, it seems the stator had been fully retarded to its absolute max..... ? i realise that this will make things softer etc and easier to start, but will it have had anything to do with the bike running stupid beserk hot ?

it was running fine temp wise untill recently when i had the big ends done.... maybe the timing was not put back as it was because a few weeks later is when i noticed the bike was about to burst into flames !! could running under such extreme condition cause stator overheat/death ??

anyway, my plan is to install the new gear to factory settings which i assume is the middle (neither advanced nor retarded).... is it normal for folk to retard the bike quite so much ? do many run it advanced or is that for the pro's who like to give it a good screaming ?

last question... i hear spraying the stator with clear laquer will help protect it ? is this true or is there something more specific i should use ?

The stator set on full retard position will lead to excess exhaust heat, yet I would not relate that to a stator failure. There are pics posted in recent articles of proper range of positioning of the stator.

Get your new cdi on and see if it makes a difference, first. :thumbup:

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The stator set on full retard position will lead to excess exhaust heat, yet I would not relate that to a stator failure. There are pics posted in recent articles of proper range of positioning of the stator.

Get your new cdi on and see if it makes a difference, first. :thumbup:

thanks, ill take a look copemech in readiness for my lovely new parts.... keep your eye on this thread please buddy incase it all goes pair shaped for me.... :rolleyes:

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thanks, ill take a look copemech in readiness for my lovely new parts.... keep your eye on this thread please buddy incase it all goes pair shaped for me.... :rolleyes:

Cheers, FYI, do not chunk the CDI unit! As stated, this is not normally what fails, reguardless of the rub through in the plug wire. The actual wire CAN be replaced, yet it seems that they use epoxy to glue them in! If one is very patient, a good nights picking away at things very gently after cutting off the wire at the base, will get you in there. There is a brass spike in the very center that contacts the wire core, and it must not be damaged.

After all this pricking about, a new wire may me installed and sealed with silecon sealer.

This is real wire, mind you, not carbon conductive material.

Once done, good as new! Cost? TIME! :thumbup:

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Cheers, FYI, do not chunk the CDI unit! As stated, this is not normally what fails, reguardless of the rub through in the plug wire. The actual wire CAN be replaced, yet it seems that they use epoxy to glue them in! If one is very patient, a good nights picking away at things very gently after cutting off the wire at the base, will get you in there. There is a brass spike in the very center that contacts the wire core, and it must not be damaged.

After all this pricking about, a new wire may me installed and sealed with silecon sealer.

This is real wire, mind you, not carbon conductive material.

Once done, good as new! Cost? TIME! :thumbup:

i appreciate your thriftiness guidance but im sure my results would amount to a temremental pain in the a*** of a bodged up coil..hahha ill have a go once i ve got the new one. perhaps i could repair it for a spare... :thumbup:

i can imagine how to get the existing ht lead out of the sealed unit but cant imagine how i could make decent connections for the new wire.....??? or does it screw on a spile like it does at the spark plug cap end ??? hmmmm now you got me thinking............ :rolleyes:

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i appreciate your thriftiness guidance but im sure my results would amount to a temremental pain in the a*** of a bodged up coil..hahha ill have a go once i ve got the new one. perhaps i could repair it for a spare... :thumbup:

i can imagine how to get the existing ht lead out of the sealed unit but cant imagine how i could make decent connections for the new wire.....??? or does it screw on a spile like it does at the spark plug cap end ??? hmmmm now you got me thinking............ :rolleyes:

As I recall, it is indeed that type screw on thing. Needs a good basic contact with the wire core, that is all! :thumbup:

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