November 16, 201114 yr I think you are missing something If the caliper piston won't move then it certainly is not getting pressure from the master First bleed the master, remove the line and put your finger over the hole and just pump til the master makes pressure, you might skip this one and just move to step 2 Then bleed the brake line, install it on the master and remove the caliper end, pinch the hose between your fingers and just pump til you have clear fluid, hold it higher than the master so the air travels up Push the piston back all the way into the caliper and put a clamp on it, install the hose and bleed, after you have pressure, remove the clamp and put it on the caliper back on, just pump it til the pads hit the disc and test for pressure and normal brake feel
November 16, 201114 yr Hi Just a thought, If your bleed nipple is loose in the thread,you can draw air in to the system as you push in the fluid. (assuming you are using a syringe and tube) I have in the past has to put a small amount of PTFE tape around the nipple thread, Blead system then remove tape and tighten up, it really should not be that hard. TLTEL
November 16, 201114 yr Author We think we have narrowed it down to a couple of spent washers on the banjo, seems to be weeping out of there and was impossible to notice at first. Will replace them tomorrow and find out for sure.
November 17, 201114 yr Author Washers replaced, and.......a very little bit of pressure, but that's it
November 17, 201114 yr Dont let it beat ya mate, please come back and let us know, when you,ve cracked it.
November 17, 201114 yr Author OK, so far I have done.... New piston in m/s New pots and seals in caliper New washers on banjo And still to date, not have enough pressure to stop the wheel turning by hand when leevr helf fully in, despite having bled it to death
November 17, 201114 yr Do what 0007 says, if you haven't already. I've had success with all sorts of vehicles by cracking the pipes off and bleeding part by part. It's a pain but it'll generally solve the problem.
November 17, 201114 yr Author There seems to be a fraction of opening of the caliper where they meet at the top, does that make any sense ? For example, when compressing the lever, it seems to expand the caliper i.e. both parts seem to move apart, by an absolute fraction, but possibly enough not to hold pressure ????? One other question, the small O ring seal, should that be flush, protrude or inside the depth of the hole it sits in when fitting both sides together ??
November 18, 201114 yr Have you tried doing verything in real slow time? Very slow gentle strokes of the lever to gently encourage bubbles to move? Try unbolting the caliper and hold higher than the master cylinder. Bubbles should work there way up. It is only oil or air stopping you by the sounds of it. I know this can be very frustrating indeed. Back bleed from caliper is always the best way to fill and then do a bleed proper once pressure found. Good luck - don't let a little bit of oil and air win, just remember the pipes are small and air squashes one hell of a lot.
November 18, 201114 yr Author Have you tried doing verything in real slow time? Very slow gentle strokes of the lever to gently encourage bubbles to move? Try unbolting the caliper and hold higher than the master cylinder. Bubbles should work there way up. It is only oil or air stopping you by the sounds of it. I know this can be very frustrating indeed. Back bleed from caliper is always the best way to fill and then do a bleed proper once pressure found. Good luck - don't let a little bit of oil and air win, just remember the pipes are small and air squashes one hell of a lot. I am pretty confident that there isn't any air in that system, it has been bled at least 10-15 times, every way possible, now over the years I have bled a few brakes, but this is the first time I've never had pressure at the caliper. I believe the fact that due to the fact the caliper is separating, however fractionally, may well be the reason I'm getting no pressure, and believe me, it can't be tighened any more or less that it has been done.
November 19, 201114 yr Is it worth stripping the caliper and ensuring the flex is iliminated before bleeding? If it is opening up you have no chance bleeding it.
November 19, 201114 yr Author Is it worth stripping the caliper and ensuring the flex is iliminated before bleeding? If it is opening up you have no chance bleeding it. Today the caliper was stripped and the line, m/c and caliper were blown with air, in case of any possible blockage, we then reassembled, got some slight pressure, then went to put new pads in, pushed back pots, insert pads.....and guess what.....no pressure
November 19, 201114 yr Have you tried doing verything in real slow time? Very slow gentle strokes of the lever to gently encourage bubbles to move? Try unbolting the caliper and hold higher than the master cylinder. Bubbles should work there way up. It is only oil or air stopping you by the sounds of it. I know this can be very frustrating indeed. Back bleed from caliper is always the best way to fill and then do a bleed proper once pressure found. Good luck - don't let a little bit of oil and air win, just remember the pipes are small and air squashes one hell of a lot. No mate.... get violent with it.... try to work fast and rapid to get the fluid to move to the caliper. Works every time on the Beta for me.
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