blocky Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 Anyone tried any frame modifications to a MH 349 ? The footrests look like they need lowering and has anyone tried changing the headstock angle ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamjayzee Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 Got a new toy Bryan? Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Anyone tried any frame modifications to a MH 349 ? The footrests look like they need lowering and has anyone tried changing the headstock angle ? You'll ruin it if you change the head angle, they are already a quick steering bike and don't need it, they have a good chassis and handle very well. Nothing like the earlier white model. Footrest position is like any bike, depends on what suits you. I lowered them on the one I had but did nothing else to it apart from a modified 348 rear silencer with a straight trhough tube and repacked, but that was because the original box was smashed in. Only other component that could do with improving is the clutch action but the engine is that tractable it is barely ever needed in sections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpat Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 You'll ruin it if you change the head angle, they are already a quick steering bike and don't need it, they have a good chassis and handle very well. Nothing like the earlier white model. Footrest position is like any bike, depends on what suits you. I lowered them on the one I had but did nothing else to it apart from a modified 348 rear silencer with a straight trhough tube and repacked, but that was because the original box was smashed in. Only other component that could do with improving is the clutch action but the engine is that tractable it is barely ever needed in sections. Woody, I'm just getting ready to lower the pegs on mine, and I can't make out from your pic how you did yours. Did you build a "box" off the lower section of the frame, or did you make a bracket, or what? Very tidy bike, by the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Good timing - just logged on and there is your question... I just welded a piece of 4 or 5mm thick plate to the back of the frame tube, shaped to take the new bracket. Then welded a strengthening gusset behind to stop it bending in or snapping off. The pegs were lowered rather than set back any significant amount, maybe just a few mm but that's all. The bike is already light on the front due to the torquey motor. And it grips plenty good enough without needing the pegs further back. I never quite got to finishing that bike off, too much other stuff, so sold it along with most of the other bikes earlier this year. I had one when they new though, so know how under-rated they are as a twinshock these days. This picture should show the footrest arrangement better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blocky Posted December 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Got a new toy Bryan? Graham Hi Graham. Ive had the bike for a while now but just getting round to looking at it. Its an amazing machine and has so much ability... On the down side. It does make you try silly theings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavywrecker Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) [quote has anyone tried changing the headstock angle ? Hi Blocky You can, as most do, raise the forks in the yokes by 6 to 10 mm. Quickens the steering a little. Keeping the drive chain as short as possible (with link n a half etc) helps shorten the plot of course. Incidentally I run a 10T front and 42T rear sprocket. Another thing I have done is fit 3 (!!!) rear WM2 rim locks, of the solid alloy Talon type, this stops all that torque ripping the valve out. Have run as low as 1.5psi without punctures. Jiggering around with the carb needle can make the bike much smoother off idle. I ended up getting some tiny shim washers ( for Bantam intented application) from Rex Caunt racing, to give finer adjustment than just moving the needle clip. I've gone to a number 3 slide too. Setting the timing is of course crucial before altering the carb settings. 3mm BTDC with a 0.3 to 0.45 mm points gap softens the power delivery... If thats what you want of course! Vary the points gap according to how aggressive you want the power. It is amazing how subtle the changes are. Finally get the condensor remounted under the tank so it stays cooler ( I personally believe the longer length of wire from points to condensor is what makes a difference). On the coil mount with a good earth. A Lucas DCB203C condensor has a nice bracket and ready attached wire. Cheers Bill Edited December 23, 2011 by heavywrecker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Another thing I have done is fit 3 (!!!) rear WM2 rim locks, of the solid alloy Talon type, this stops all that torque ripping the valve out. Have run as low as 1.5psi without punctures. To hi-jack the thread slightly, I have used the talon rim locks on 2 bikes, and they look very pretty, and probably last longer - but I dont think they are ant better than the cheap ones at stopping the tyre moving ! Any thoughts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo349 Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) My MH has only 2 rimlocks on the rear and never ripped a valve out yet I use tubless X11's on the bike too and they have always worked ok. The bike in the pics looks good how did you paint the tank as mine is all faded and the plastic is scrached. I also like the detail on the barrel fins nice touch. Its nice to see the MH getting good comments Ive had mine from new way back in march 1986 one of the last dug up from europe by sandifords and sold off cheep over here. I look forward to the next 25 years with the old girl. Edited December 23, 2011 by jimbo349 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 To hi-jack the thread slightly, I have used the talon rim locks on 2 bikes, and they look very pretty, and probably last longer - but I dont think they are ant better than the cheap ones at stopping the tyre moving ! Any thoughts ? Depends on what you are calling "the cheap ones". The Talon ones work amazingly well at gripping the rear tyre on my bikes - so well I only use a single Talon on the rear and have not had problems with the tyre moving. When I first experimented with the single rear clamp thing, I put paint marks on the tyre and rim to check for movement, and there was none. There is a drawback though with TALON grips in that unless you use a rubber rim tape that goes over the outside of the gripper plate, it is easy to cause the tube to herniate at the ends of the gripper plate when inflating it to get the bead up onto the rim, due to the sharp change in contour. A rubber rim band helps stop the tube from expanding unevenly into those spaces. I have gone back to using rubber rim tapes (from adhesive tape) for that reason. The OEM clamps on Japanese and Spanish bikes from the 1970s have a gently tapered profile that prevents the herniation problem, and seem to grip the tyre OK, but I'm finding that all my old clamps are falling apart and soon will all have been replaced with the TALON type. I have not experimented with single rear 1970s-style clamps for slippage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_red_bike Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Depends on what you are calling "the cheap ones". The Talon ones work amazingly well at gripping the rear tyre on my bikes - so well I only use a single Talon on the rear and have not had problems with the tyre moving. When I first experimented with the single rear clamp thing, I put paint marks on the tyre and rim to check for movement, and there was none. There is a drawback though with TALON grips in that unless you use a rubber rim tape that goes over the outside of the gripper plate, it is easy to cause the tube to herniate at the ends of the gripper plate when inflating it to get the bead up onto the rim, due to the sharp change in contour. A rubber rim band helps stop the tube from expanding unevenly into those spaces. I have gone back to using rubber rim tapes (from adhesive tape) for that reason. The OEM clamps on Japanese and Spanish bikes from the 1970s have a gently tapered profile that prevents the herniation problem, and seem to grip the tyre OK, but I'm finding that all my old clamps are falling apart and soon will all have been replaced with the TALON type. I have not experimented with single rear 1970s-style clamps for slippage. Hi i have a triumph twin with a fantic wheel,i only use one clamp and the tyre has not moved also if they do move it is often the opposite way due to braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavywrecker Posted December 29, 2011 Report Share Posted December 29, 2011 A rubber rim band helps stop the tube from expanding unevenly into those spaces. I have gone back to using rubber rim tapes (from adhesive tape) for that reason. The OEM clamps on Japanese and Spanish bikes from the 1970s have a gently tapered profile that prevents the herniation problem, and seem to grip the tyre OK, but I'm finding that all my old clamps are falling apart and soon will all have been replaced with the TALON type. I have not experimented with single rear 1970s-style clamps for slippage. That is such a top tip, very many thanks! Cheers Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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