Doh. Didnt think of that. Thanks. Glenn

Right, I am glad to report that my clutch is absolutely perfect! 

 

Glenn. 

And you wont believe it, but if you know how to set it absolutely right, its can be even better!

 

You need measuring clocks and some nice tools (and time).

 

https://www.facebook.com/takanori.kitamura

He is a pro in making cluthes spot on.

https://www.facebook.com/2011trproduct/?fref=ts

You could of saved all that sanding just by burning that clutch in. Fourth gear against a tree and give her hell. Test, and give it another good burn. 5 minute job.

 

Do you mean slipping the clutch while reving or just only keep throttle? Because i've wasted much time with sand paper too..

Rev it and slip the clutch against a whall or something with all the brakes on.

I RESIST, I WILL USE AUTOTRAK II 

 

(2 reasons, it is what the bike came with when I bought it and don't want issues with changing fluid.

and it's blue just like the plastics on my bike       )

Autotrak2 oils have pretty much been stated cause swelling of clutch materials.  this was back in 08 or sometime in history, just sayin, everyone else has moved away from it.

I've just replaced the clutch pack on my 2014 Racing as the lever was very stiff. Got a Surflex clutch pack with 5 steel plates and picked 2 that got the pack to 9.8mm. Put it all back together with new Putoline Light Gear Oil (as recommended by Factory Kev at GasGasUK) and now its lovely and light.

However, it was slipping in 5th and 6th gear when I tried it today. What could cause that? There was possibly slightly too much oil in as it was about 2/3rds of the way up the sight glass rather than midway. Could that do it?

I've made sure there's lots of slack at the lever.

Any ideas before I pull it all apart again ?

2/3rds vs half way up the glass is probably about 20ml of oil. It would make zero difference.

Not sure about the slipping on a new clutch. I'd have to guess something went together incorrectly.

I always put in 380mm when its totally empty. Little below the glass. Too much is not good imo.

The plates are under more pressure when fitted than when measured with a vernier or other gauge. Brand new plates will also bed in a little, just taking high points of the fibres could easily make 0.1mm difference.Just been through this process myself and I measured the pack at 9.75mm. However although it didn't slip the clutch wasn't fast enough when trying to jump across stuff. When I took it back out its now less than 9.7mm after one trial.

They can even become more thick!

Yes they can depending what oil is used

Well I remeasured the finger height and it's spot on.

Normally I can be a little bit heavy handed when doing nuts and bolts up. I'm thinking I may have been a little too cautious when I replaced the plates and not tightened the retaining bolts up quite enough. Have re-tightened them all. Also checked the bearing, washer, replaced the clutch cover gasket and put it all back together. I'm hoping its now sorted but I don't have a trial until 22nd so I won't know until then.

Edited May 9, 201610 yr by smarty156

The newer pro`s required the thickest friction plate to be installed first. At the same time the newer bikes have the light spring.

All the Surflex friction plates are the same thickness. It's the metal plates that they give you different thicknesses of (1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.5mm and 2 x 1.6mm).