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Trials Newbie, Advice Appreciated


craigh88
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16 Pounds for an oil seal? I bought mine for US$3 It was 15mm x 26mm x 7mm thick. Yours may be different so I would remove it and take it with you. A quick google search found this source in Liverpool. http://www.hesliverpool.co.uk/Seals.html Pretty likely they will have it and also other seals and bearings you might need.

Thanks to Jon for adding 2 more ways that water can get in the gearbox. He is the master.

While you are stripping the bike down, be sure to check the bearings in the rear suspension - especially the dogbones. They get lots of dirt and water on and in them. Bearings are cheap. Replacement dogbones are spendy.

Cheers.

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They made a 125 and 200 model in 1999, your VIN relates to the "200" model as I remember. at http://www.trialspar...a.com/tech.html you'll find a bunch of well-organized info and videos to help you with the bike. We have a couple of the 99' 200s in our club and they are still going strong, good bike for a new rider.

Jon

When new these were marvelous bikes... the 200 is 163cc... I rode them for a bit. you won't find much that it cant do (unless you are quite heavy or the bike is knackered) and it won't rip your arms off.

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Thanks for all the input guys. Your really helping me here. I've ordered the parts today from an online shop (thanks for the link to the local retailer by the way, may pop down there for my suspension bushes which will be needed soon) and had a quick look at the bike, removing the WP cover I noticed a lot of play in the bearings. I imagine this is whats causing the water to get passed. 60north I had a quick look at the casing, looks like it SHOULD come out if I can get the rear brake out of the way but I'll let you know when I actually get round to it. In one of your previous posts you say about removing the impeller from the shaft after its removed, will the casing come off with the impeller still fitted then?

I also got to the bottom of my fan fault, a connection on the thermostat has snapped off. I proved the fan is ok by shorting the wires as suggested in this thread and the fan kicked into life right away. I'm going to try and repair the connection if not a new stat will be needed, quite happy about that. cheers fellas.

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When you take the thermostat out, take a close look at the rubber grommet that it presses into. Mine split and the flange started coming off while out riding one day. The flange is the only thing that holds the retaining clip in place so you can imagine that the 'stat came out and dumped all my coolant. Not a good way to start the day.

I was able to make a field fix by sacrificing a plastic bag and tie wrapping the stat in place so was able to finish the day with only a slow leak. Thankfully I wear a hydration pack and could refill the radiator about every 4 sections.

Oh the things we do to keep riding!

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Lol. Some middle of the trail botch jobs have lasted longer than proper repairs on my Old bikes, think its a case of needs must so get on with it and sort it out. Haha. I will check the pipe when I take the stat out tomorrow. Thankss

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The parts arrived today, I've had a watch of the vid it very helpful, thanks. I took the casing off before 60north, never had much trouble with it hitting the frame. Had to drop the rear brake out of the way but it basically come right out after that. I'll set about replacing the pump tomorrow and let you know how I get on. Lol. Thanks.

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I've taken the pump and bearings out today in work but ran out of time, ill have to finish it tomorrow. I have just been in the garage looking t the clutch and gear selector mechanism as I was having trouble getting gears (as discussed previously), and I have a (yet another) question, has this bike only got 3 gears and neutral? If not I think I have a problem. Lol, I hope it does as it will explain a lot.

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No, your bike has more than 3 gears I am sure. Be sure to turn either the rear wheel or the main shaft that comes through the gearbox when trying to shift. If the gears are not turning they will not mesh. I believe this transmission shaft is the one the clutch cage slides onto. You should be able to turn this by hand - it might take some force and the machined edges can be sharp so I would suggest wearing good rubber gloves to protect your fingers and give good grip.

When you drained the fluid, did you find any metal? I replaced my drain plug wih a magnetic one to monitor any metal in the oil. I am not any sort of expert on Gasser transmissions but if it will not shift it could be bent shift forks, failed bearing, jammed gear teeth, and maybe other things. If you find that you have to split the cases make sure you have the proper flywheel puller before you try that.

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Thanks five. Sorry for the late reply. I have taken the clutch basket off last night as I wanted to see the selector barrel and claw fully. What I found was a lot of play side to side in the rivet holding the selector claw, from what I've read on the net this is designed to brake if the selector gets impacted while riding and protect the gearbox. I'm just not sure how tight this should be and how much play SHOULD be in it? Also the selector claw itself has somehow moved away from the selector barrel (I imagine because of the rivet) and has been damaged by the spinning clutch basket and is now a little bit beaten up and bent out of shape. I have ordered a new selector claw and rivet, only

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hi Craig, i think you have found your gear selection problem. there should be no sideways play on the rivet. only loose enough for the spring to hold the selector claw on the selector pins. as to how it bent is probably a hard knock or possibly a heavy boot due to severe clutch drag, if your clutch works well you will be able to start bike easily in gear with engine hot and not creep forward.

selector2-1.jpg

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Excellent news 60north. Thanks mate. Your selector claw looks much different than mine at the moment. I will post a pic of mine when I get to the garage next, more for comedy purposes to be honest. Lol. I've got anew rivet on order too as I said so fingers crossed all will be good now. When I checked the clutch plates they look in decent condition, like they have been replaced fairly recently so that's a bonus.

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It sounds like you have found your shifting problem. A bent claw and loose rivet will allow the claw to slip off the drum and not rotate into the gears.

Great pic from 60north. That looks exactly like the mechanism on my bike. Look closely at the way the spring hooks to the claw. Mine was an earlier design where the spring went through a small hole in the claw. The one in the pic hooks under the claw and is the new design. If yours is like the pic then you will have no problem. I had to order the new design spring once I learned that mine was still the old style part.

Make sure you don't lose the little ball bearing that pushes the clutch plunger out. It can easily roll out and disappear when you are not looking. If you do lose it, it is a .250 inch diameter ball.

Also be careful when you put the side cover on to get the water pump gear teeth lined up before you slam it home.

You will be feet up soon now!

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Thanks for the info guys. I had a quick watch if the vidios before, he is actually really helpful that guy, thank god for YouTube. Lol

The clip on my bike does appear to be the later one that hooks under the claw, I noticed this the other day when I was stripping it. Judging by the state of the claw, this Is definatly not helping the gear **** system, so I'm fairly confidet that this should sort the majority of the problems out. Just a quick question, the parts havnt come yet so I can't have a look, but how does the rivet work? Can it be fitted with a rivet gun or will it need peening Over? If it does what's the best way to do it without bending anything? (sorry if that's a stupid question, but as I said I havnt see the parts properly yet) cheers. Craig.

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