neilh Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 i doubt you'll cure the clutch problem. from what ive read, the clutch staying live if a Gas Gas trait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Yeh I've heard they like to creep forward a little naturally, and it's just a case of getting used to working the back brake while balancing. That's just from what I've read on the net, and it's something that Gas Gas riders just learn to live with. I'm going to change the oil anyways so I can keep on top of it maintenance wise. Can't do any harm. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Well i took it out today, changed the oil and it looked like milk! Literally like someone had put milk in the gearbox! So I assume the water pump seal has gone? It also did need the coolant topping up. Second question. Is the cooling fan ment to work all the time? Or only at a certain temp? Not sure this really matters a mine doesnt seem to work at all so I will have to follow the sticky at the top of the page, just want to know for when I'm testing it. And lastly. Are these bike known for gear selector barrel faults and what are the symptoms please? Mines very hard to select 1st gear with the engine running, will sometimes go down and into 2nd??and the gear selector seem to stick down (like when it's pressed to lower a gear) intermittently. Any ideas? Thanks for reading, sorry about all the questions and the essay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilh Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 fan is probably on all the time as the engine is over heating due to the lack of coolant. (its all in the gearbox) wouldnt read too much into it at this stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Thanks Neil, but the fan isn't working at all at the moment. I've just read a post on gas gas musium About testing the thermostat etc so I'll do that. Any recommendations of where to get a W.P seal? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmseven Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 If your coolant is low (due to it being all mixing with the oil) then the fan wont come on as the sender is in the neck of the radiator. 1st is usually hard to engage, either do it when your still rolling or as many do use your hand when you have stopped! Water pump seal is available on its own or as part of a kit, You shouldn't be riding it as it is until you sort that water pump seal or you will create more problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilh Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Thanks Neil, but the fan isn't working at all at the moment. I've just read a post on gas gas musium About testing the thermostat etc so I'll do that. Any recommendations of where to get a W.P seal? Cheers. sorry i read it as if it was on constantly. have a look at my thread on "where do you buy your parts". you'll be spoiled for choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Bm. Thanks for the info. I was only riding for a short time (about 10mins) because of this. I know it's not right but I wanted to get a feel for the bike and see if anything else was wrong before I strip it Thanks Neil. Will get done of them into google now. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Milk is not usually recommended as a lubricant! MIlky oil will cause lots of clutch drag. Water can get into the gearbox 3 ways: 1) Bad water pump seal (most likely). 2) bad o-rings between head and cylinder. 3) Leak from water jacket in the cylinder (unlikely but possible). I took out my old water pump oil seal and went to a local bearing and seal shop and bought one. BTW, pry out the oil seal, don't drive a screw through it as a "handle" like some people recommend. There is a bearing right behind it that can get damaged if the screw goes in too far. There is a temperature switch in the radiator hose that turns the fan on when hot. If you want to test the fan, simply unplug the 2 wires from the temp switch and connect them together. Start the bike and the fan should come on. With water in the oil, the clutch will drag badly, making it harder to shift. Check that the gear lever is not bent against the left side cover and dragging. Some people have complained that Gassers have weak transmissions. A friend who is a US champ told me that he stopped trying to move big rocks with his shift lever and he has no trouble with transmissions anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) Water can get into the gearbox 3 ways: 1) Bad water pump seal (most likely). 2) bad o-rings between head and cylinder. 3) Leak from water jacket in the cylinder (unlikely but possible). 4) Sucked into the case vent tube during water crossings. 5) coolant pushed past a good water pump seal if the radiator vent tube is blocked, causing over-pressurization of cooling system. Jon Edited June 5, 2012 by JSE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Cheers five. Lots of clear answeres for me there thank you. I'm going to start stripping the bike tomorrow after work. Fully flush the cooling system and g/box, I will test the fan before I take it apart. I have sourced a motor mentioned in the sticky on this page, which is all ready to order if the fans at fault. As you mentioned that you have previously replaced your seal would you say that this http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=1939 looks like the correct part? I know it clearly says in the description it should be but I don't want to spend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 4) Sucked into the case vent tube during water crossings. 5) coolant pushed past a good water pump seal if the radiator vent tube is blocked, causing over-pressurization of cooling system. Jon I was just on a flat field today Jon, unless it was the previous owner, but to be honest I think he just used it for messing about on. I will check the radiator vent when I get the tank off, thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60north Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Cheers five. Lots of clear answeres for me there thank you. I'm going to start stripping the bike tomorrow after work. Fully flush the cooling system and g/box, I will test the fan before I take it apart. I have sourced a motor mentioned in the sticky on this page, which is all ready to order if the fans at fault. As you mentioned that you have previously replaced your seal would you say that this http://trialstribula..._image&pID=1939 looks like the correct part? I know it clearly says in the description it should be but I don't want to spend £16 on a piece of plastic+rubber for it to be wrong and sit on the shelf for ever. Lol. P.s. I would go to a bearing and seal shop to get it cheaper but unfortionatly I don't know a local one. hi Craigh88, if you still have the original pump shaft/seal fitted, this part will sit on your shelf for ever because that seal is for the updated water pump, if you buy the the water pump kit, part no.MT280010106 you will get the updated version. i would recommend replacing the shaft bearings (6000-C3) also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigh88 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Thanks 60north your a hero. Just found the kit for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60north Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 hi Craig88, there are 2 C3 bearings, the outer bearing (nearest impellor) had a metel shield, the bearings i fitted were 6000-C3 2rs. 2rs means 2 rubber seals, i just removed 3 of the seals and fitted the bearing with one seal nearest the impellor, the impellor is normal anti-clockwise thread and best unscrewed after the shaft has been pulled out, you will also need very small circlip pliers to remove shaft. i found on my bike the clutch cover was a very close fit to the frame and a pain to remove and would like to know if you had the same prob? i fixed the clutch drag on my bike by sanding the clutch plates & slipper rings with p360 grit paper using a mirror as a flat surface then sanding smooth the wear marks on the clutch basket. a couple o points to be careful of are, dont loose the ball bearing out of the clutch pushrod shaft & ensure the kickstarter spring is in its slot on the kickstart shaft, if you dont the kickstart jams when you fit the cover. i found this out the hard way.. ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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