Well, newbie back with more problems

So i ride my bike for 4hrs one day and the tyre is flat (had only put air in before start)

More air back in (on a 50litre air compressor)

Hissing all round the rim (Tubless tyre Michilen new)

So i remove tyre and fit a tube (michilen)

Cant get the bead to go back on rim bout 14-18inches on tyre both sides

Any ideas,??? I am desperate to get back trialing as the weather is sooo nice the now

Bike has been garaged now for 1week, arghhhh

Oopps also nicked the tube upon fitting tyre back on, Puncture repaired that

And removed the rubber band from the inside is that ok??

PLEASE PLEASE help

Check this out http://www.lewisport...ging_manual.pdf plus if you are refitting a tube inflate it a bit,so not to nip the tube,when you get the last bit over the rim.or even You Tube fitting motorbike tyre plenty of video's

Edited April 15, 201313 yr by bilks

i had to put over 90 psi to get my rear tyre on my sherco to pop back on, despite fairy liquid and wd 40 on it.......good luck and it will pop eventually...!

You need the rim band in there or the spoke nipples will wear through the tube in short order

I would have invested the time in the rear wheel so I could run it with no tube

But that's just me

Chances are that the leaks were actually coming from the spoke nipples and not the bead. Unless, of course, the rubber near the bead was damaged during the installation. A dunk in the water tank will tell you where the leaks are.

The rubber strip that you removed is what seals the air from leaking around the spoke nipples. They can be a pain to install and get to seal correctly but that is the right thing to do. The new style have the valve stem molded into the rim strip and are much better than the old 2 piece style. Tube is last resort.

If you can not get the bead over the rim, it is because bead is not positioned properly within the inner part of the rim, opposite of where you are levering the tire. Done properly, it takes very little force to get the bead over the rim. A little rubber lube helps. Just say NO to using long screw drivers to change tires. Get some real tire spoons.

Have you considered fixing it properly? Do you have a local shop that can do it?

you have to clean the inside walls of the rim before re fitting the tyre

I second getting it sorted properly. New rim band etc.

I agree, spending the time getting it right without the tube is the way to go and just think how satisfied you'll be when you sort it !!

FWIW I had a new rear fitted recently and got some leaking around the spokes after the rim seal was disrupted changing it over. However, even though it's a pain in the *rse .. with a bit of patience in cleaning the rim up thoroughly (worth the effort and good excercise for the arms) and reseating / changing the rim band (when you clean it all up you may see some damage to it and decide to change it) but after taking some time with that all this it was fine!

For me, I got my local tyre shop to remove and fit it as it's easy to cause issues getting it back on and I wasn't going to waste all my hard work bodging it myself. If an when you get it sorted, a good tip I got on here, was to make sure that you pump it right up hard as soon as it's on... as the pressure will help everything seal. Also keep pumped up between use and just deflate when you take it out!

Good luck, it's a pain but worth the effort !!

I agree mend prperly, and the upside if you get a flat once sorted its sooooooooooooooooooooooo easy to fix with a dog dirt!

If you have a new Michelin ( the best tyre ) .. Then as the guys say , do the job right !

When we fit a new Mich Trials tyre for a customer , We use bead sealer ..

Clean the wheel up with Brake cleaner, gentle wire brush on spoke heads.. The we paint bead sealer on , before stretching on a New Tubeless rim tape ( Genuine Factory ones more expensive , but better quality)...

Just to be sure , we than paint a layer of bead sealer around rim , before inflating it , often needing 80 + Psi to pop it out .. One of those seating mousse tubes is good for this ..

Bead sealer looks messy, but actually peels of like Latex ..

Never have had a bead leak so whilst on older wheels it might be an idea mostly its the rim tape

WOW, cheers for all the replys,

I took it to the garage to get it fitted

Is it really about 80-90psi to get it pop back on, i put 60 in and thought i better stop incase i wreck tube and tyre

Im getting new wheels in about 3 months so goin to go tubless, again ive never had problems with them

My leaks were around the wheel rim. After dunking the wheel into barrel of water I noticed that the air was seeping out allround the rim in 2-3 inch intervals and the rim tape was fine, Made me think this was a valve prob, But that to was perfect

Prob should have got rim tape and sealent (nip) will do this from now on

Thanks guys for all your comments

FFS had valve ripped off last time was out fitted new tube but couldn't get it to seat so put strap round it and went like crazy with the pump so much so that the bead came off the rim and boom now have no tube. what tube would people recommend for rear std or hd or uhd

Edited May 28, 201313 yr by blade7

dont use a tube is best.