footpegleg Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Well, newbie back with more problems So i ride my bike for 4hrs one day and the tyre is flat (had only put air in before start) More air back in (on a 50litre air compressor) Hissing all round the rim (Tubless tyre Michilen new) So i remove tyre and fit a tube (michilen) Cant get the bead to go back on rim bout 14-18inches on tyre both sides Any ideas,??? I am desperate to get back trialing as the weather is sooo nice the now Bike has been garaged now for 1week, arghhhh Oopps also nicked the tube upon fitting tyre back on, Puncture repaired that And removed the rubber band from the inside is that ok?? PLEASE PLEASE help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilks Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) Check this out http://www.lewisport...ging_manual.pdf plus if you are refitting a tube inflate it a bit,so not to nip the tube,when you get the last bit over the rim.or even You Tube fitting motorbike tyre plenty of video's Edited April 15, 2013 by bilks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskaze911 Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 i had to put over 90 psi to get my rear tyre on my sherco to pop back on, despite fairy liquid and wd 40 on it.......good luck and it will pop eventually...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0007 Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 You need the rim band in there or the spoke nipples will wear through the tube in short order I would have invested the time in the rear wheel so I could run it with no tube But that's just me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Chances are that the leaks were actually coming from the spoke nipples and not the bead. Unless, of course, the rubber near the bead was damaged during the installation. A dunk in the water tank will tell you where the leaks are. The rubber strip that you removed is what seals the air from leaking around the spoke nipples. They can be a pain to install and get to seal correctly but that is the right thing to do. The new style have the valve stem molded into the rim strip and are much better than the old 2 piece style. Tube is last resort. If you can not get the bead over the rim, it is because bead is not positioned properly within the inner part of the rim, opposite of where you are levering the tire. Done properly, it takes very little force to get the bead over the rim. A little rubber lube helps. Just say NO to using long screw drivers to change tires. Get some real tire spoons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Have you considered fixing it properly? Do you have a local shop that can do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nelly1 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 you have to clean the inside walls of the rim before re fitting the tyre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I second getting it sorted properly. New rim band etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coops Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I agree, spending the time getting it right without the tube is the way to go and just think how satisfied you'll be when you sort it !! FWIW I had a new rear fitted recently and got some leaking around the spokes after the rim seal was disrupted changing it over. However, even though it's a pain in the *rse .. with a bit of patience in cleaning the rim up thoroughly (worth the effort and good excercise for the arms) and reseating / changing the rim band (when you clean it all up you may see some damage to it and decide to change it) but after taking some time with that all this it was fine! For me, I got my local tyre shop to remove and fit it as it's easy to cause issues getting it back on and I wasn't going to waste all my hard work bodging it myself. If an when you get it sorted, a good tip I got on here, was to make sure that you pump it right up hard as soon as it's on... as the pressure will help everything seal. Also keep pumped up between use and just deflate when you take it out! Good luck, it's a pain but worth the effort !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I agree mend prperly, and the upside if you get a flat once sorted its sooooooooooooooooooooooo easy to fix with a dog dirt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enduro vet Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 If you have a new Michelin ( the best tyre ) .. Then as the guys say , do the job right ! When we fit a new Mich Trials tyre for a customer , We use bead sealer .. Clean the wheel up with Brake cleaner, gentle wire brush on spoke heads.. The we paint bead sealer on , before stretching on a New Tubeless rim tape ( Genuine Factory ones more expensive , but better quality)... Just to be sure , we than paint a layer of bead sealer around rim , before inflating it , often needing 80 + Psi to pop it out .. One of those seating mousse tubes is good for this .. Bead sealer looks messy, but actually peels of like Latex .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted April 17, 2013 Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Never have had a bead leak so whilst on older wheels it might be an idea mostly its the rim tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footpegleg Posted April 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 WOW, cheers for all the replys, I took it to the garage to get it fitted Is it really about 80-90psi to get it pop back on, i put 60 in and thought i better stop incase i wreck tube and tyre Im getting new wheels in about 3 months so goin to go tubless, again ive never had problems with them My leaks were around the wheel rim. After dunking the wheel into barrel of water I noticed that the air was seeping out allround the rim in 2-3 inch intervals and the rim tape was fine, Made me think this was a valve prob, But that to was perfect Prob should have got rim tape and sealent (nip) will do this from now on Thanks guys for all your comments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blade7 Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 (edited) FFS had valve ripped off last time was out fitted new tube but couldn't get it to seat so put strap round it and went like crazy with the pump so much so that the bead came off the rim and boom now have no tube. what tube would people recommend for rear std or hd or uhd Edited May 28, 2013 by blade7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 dont use a tube is best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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