August 3, 201313 yr Author hi guys split the engin today looks all ok to me ive took the gears out in order the gear forks look ok only thing i can think off is if they where put in the wrong way at some point can anybody tell me were the spacers should be? think there was a small 1 and a biger 1 i do have the manual but just want to make sure i will take photos and upload cheers.
August 4, 201313 yr What spacers? If you could select 5 gears the selector forks are in the right way. If the fork that can be fitted the wrong way around was the wrong way around, you'd only have had the first three gears, no 4th and 5th. Did you check the selector shaft before pulling it apart
August 4, 201313 yr What spacers? ... There are one or two that keeps the gears between the gear shafts "aligned" the "spacer" has an edge too, the on my Bultaco was warn out and I had to refabricate the part as it wasn't available anymore. I have pic's of it but I'am not at home yet, first on Friday ... . Anyway if the gear shafts aren't very well alinged shifting can be difficult and setted gears can " hop" out.
August 4, 201313 yr Author how do i get it to stay in neutral on rebuild? witch way dose the shifter drum go the bugger fell out when i split the engin so couldnt see witch way it was. going to have to make a wooden frame so its off the work bench but first ive got to prep ie cleand the crank cases may be give them another painting. the main bearing on the crank what spec are they? i mean they have to be more heat resistance than the others?
August 4, 201313 yr Author is the gear box out off a 199A the same has a 198A? if so i have 1 and was thinking off puting it in the 198A i dont want to be puting this 1 back in then finding out its the same.
August 5, 201313 yr Hi Bondy. The main bearings need to be at least C3 grade bearings. You can also use C4 but I think that C3`s are fine. The Shift drum has notches or hollows on the bottom of it and you will see that where they start you want the second hollow to sit where the Neutral stop is. This is that funny hollow bolt which has a spring and a funny rounded end plunger in it. The easiest way to tell is if you spin the clutch shaft then the counter shaft shouldn`t move. If it does then you aren`t in neutral. I am not sure on the changes between the 199 and the 198 gears. I would assume they are the same but you would need to have a look at the gear ratios of each to make sure there are the same. It should have which way the shift drum goes in in the workshop manual so check it out. I hope this helps. One thing which makes a great engine stand for an engine on its side is a milkcrate. Using one means you can get the shafts to go in the holes in the milkcrate so the engine sits flat. Cheers Graham.
August 5, 201313 yr Author nice 1 Graham thanks. am just ordering my new bearings now. and my other bits. why the engin is pulled apart am thinking off taking it to be vapor blasted.
August 5, 201313 yr It doesn't matter if you're putting the complete cluster in, they're all interchangeable on the later bikes. If you're swapping individual cogs just count the teeth but the ratios should all be the same on the 198a / 199a. I think the 198b is supposed to have a slightly different 1st gear, same gear as the 175cc engine. You should find out what the problem was before just swapping out the cluster. If the selector drum is stiff in the casing for example or something similar you may be back to square 1 when you put it back together. It's easy enough to check that all gears select smoothly whilst they sit in the left hand casing and then again by just reassembling the cases without the crank, before final assembly. You could compare the action of the two gear clusters.
August 5, 201313 yr Author cheers woody i will do that. the shifter forks in the photo are they the right way round i will check in the manual
August 5, 201313 yr From memory I don't know but look at it logically. If that's how they came out then they are the right way around as if they weren't you would only have had 3 gears.... Look at the selectors, there is only one that can be fitted the wrong way around for them to fit back into the gearbox, the one furthest away. If you turn the other two around their pins won't fit into the selector drum when the fork is located on the gear.
August 5, 201313 yr Author cheers woody it will be a coupel of weeks before i put it back together so plenty of time to try and sort it
August 7, 201313 yr Something doesn't look right with the kickstart assembly. Like the ramped piece that is part of the ratchet isn't returning back in all the way. Is that because you've disassembled it before taking the photo? Theoretically it could work as it is but it almost looks like the kickshaft return spring isn't set correctly. The kickstart gear looks too far over on the kickshaft to the point that its rubbing on its neighbour. I'd check it carefully because the engagement ratchet with the ramp on it isn't returning underneath its retaining arm. I agree with Woody also ... don't just put another trans in to try and fix the problem. Take your time and examine everything carefully, and understand how the cluster works and won't work. As to finding where neutral is when its apart...... please please please read your manual, it shows in picture and plain text how and where to locate neutral on the selector drum. Again though, I don't think the kickstart assembly is put together correctly. Hope this helps Steve Edited August 7, 201313 yr by stevem75
August 7, 201313 yr Steve, kickstart assembly is how it is because the cases are split and the ratchet gear has moved on the shaft, it's no longer seated behind the stop. Neutral is easy to find without the manual, although I agree, working with the manual is far better. Only takes a bit of logical thought to position the drum correctly
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