All I can say is...keep those exhaust systems totally sealed, boys and girls.

A hand over the pipe easily saved my top end yesterday.

So glad I welded up that split seam!

Fugly, though.

Welding aluminum with a torch isn't pretty...at least, not when I do it!

Edited September 17, 201312 yr by charlie chitlins

My mate tried that once haha

I have seen these work wonders multiple times this past riding season. (photo from Splatshop.com)

My mate tried that once haha

I bet he wears gloves now

He was wearing gloves, burnt his knee to trying to stop it haha

Think he was off bike a good 6 weeks.

Only rides with a lanyard now.

Edited September 18, 201312 yr by betabonkers

My carb iced up last year & throttle stuck wide open, kill switch didn't do a thing................

I have seen these work wonders multiple times this past riding season. (photo from Splatshop.com)

If a kill button doesn't work at high revs...... Why would this work?

Evertime I have seen it work is because the bike was not allowed to reach high revs.

here's the scenerio:

regular kill button:

Rider duffs it and falls off bike, the bike merrily goes about its way and falls over and revs to moon. Rider runs over and starts pushing button. no effect and bike siezes.

Lanyard:

Rider duffs it and falls off bike, the lanyard is pulled off the "kill button" and the bike shuts off and falls over. The bike does not have time to reach full revs.

A lanyard wont work better in every situation with every bike, but more often than not its better.

Evertime I have seen it work is because the bike was not allowed to reach high revs.

here's the scenerio:

regular kill button:

Rider duffs it and falls off bike, the bike merrily goes about its way and falls over and revs to moon. Rider runs over and starts pushing button. no effect and bike siezes.

Lanyard:

Rider duffs it and falls off bike, the lanyard is pulled off the "kill button" and the bike shuts off and falls over. The bike does not have time to reach full revs.

Yeah that makes sense. Thanks

Yeah that makes sense. Thanks

A lanyard wont work better in every situation with every bike, but more often than not its better.

Like Dabster says, a Lanyard is not the perfect solution for every situation. I am sure there are times it won't work and there are times it will be annoying as hell having it accidentally come off (flat out on the trail and wave hi to your friend..........oops bike shut off)

That was just the scenerios so far where I have personally seen it work.

If the resistance of the kill switch is high or one of the contacts is through the head bearings as with the classic single wire kill switch a high revving engine can still generate enough voltage to trigger the CDI. Another scenario is the engine is running so fast it is acting like a diesel and just firing the mixture from the free radicals not scavenged by the previous combustion cycle. You could also have a drastically over heated plug or contaminant in the combustion chamber that is just lighting mixture on its own.

The Zip-meister brings up a great point about revving I hadn't thought of.

Heh heh the spell checker suggested "moister"

The Zip-meister brings up a great point about revving I hadn't thought of.

Heh heh the spell checker suggested "moister"

One more scenario to add to the mix. The higher the revs the higher the voltage the higher the voltage the higher the current the more ability it has to jump gaps. Opening and closing a manual switch is guess work as we have no idea as to the gap distance. while the magnet type (lanyard) has a more defined magnet gap/movement of known repeatable distances.

There are two types of kill switch system:

One: Current sourcing. The switch is always closed and when you press it it opens up cutting the current, all well in theory however once you get the bike up revving high it does not want to shut off and the current jumps the gap. it then acts like points used to do on non CDI ignitions burning them with carbon deposits and making them unreliable. This is a poor system.

Two: Current sinking: The switch is always open. When you press it, it shorts the current to ground. The reliability is now on how good your ground is and how long you are pressing the button for.

The problem with #2 is that even you are pressing the button the engines is still turning under momentum and giving the impression that the kill button is not working you release and press again going around in a loop.

Edited September 27, 201312 yr by billyt