Any recommendations for a chain lube that isn't too sticky? Currently using Rock Oil and always applying it days before a ride to give it a chance to soak in but its so sticky that the chain gets filthy in no time. I do have some Wurth dry chain lube, that worth trying?

I'd probably prefer using a light oil or something rather than a sticky lube. Or maybe something along the lines of MucOffs ptfe dry lube?

I stopped using chain lube a few years ago, just use WD40, chain life seems to have improved as well.

I stopped using chain lube a few years ago, just use WD40, chain life seems to have improved as well.

Not sure I'd be happy using a degreaser as lube personally, but if its working for you I can't knock it.

So far I've scrubbed it in WD40 with a toothbrush, washed it off in WD40, dried it all off with an air line and a rag, dipped it in light oil and hung it up to drip dry. I'll wipe it off a bit more before fitting it and see what it's like.

Chainsaw oil made by Stihl. Enviromentally friendly and £30 for 5 litres which will be enough to last for years.

Chainsaw oil made by Stihl. Enviromentally friendly and £30 for 5 litres which will be enough to last for years.

Now thats not a bad idea :-)

Wilko's 'loosen up' maintenance spray, £1 a can, excellent as a light chain lube and maintenance spray after washing, it leaves a light wax like coating once dry.

Wilko's 'loosen up' maintenance spray, £1 a can, excellent as a light chain lube and maintenance spray after washing, it leaves a light wax like coating once dry.

That more of a degreaser like WD40 or does it have some actual lubrication/protection ingredients in it like silicone and teflon etc?

gt 50? 3 in 1

Oh the question of questions, ... well I have made good experience with PDL Dry Lube on teflon basis. But I don't know if its sold in the UK?

At least were I live quite priceworthy as in the same price range as Castrol even cheaper then Bel-Ray or Yamahalube, you really don't need as much to apply as with common chain lube it "sticks" very good too. Even in very dirty environment the chain stayed clean so far and we have quite a lot mud and sand here.

The only disatvantage ... you need to get rid of any chain oil or grease that was pured/sprayed on the chain before, otherwise it will not stick to the chain.

Link: http://www.ebay.de/itm/like/330897562587?lpid=106&_configDebug=ViewItemDictionary.ENABLE_PAYMENTS_IN_HLP:true&hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1

WD40, GT85 or similar water displacer if chain is wet, then once chain is dry / free of water use engine or gear oil. Drip type chain oiler at a drip every 8 to 15 seconds is only way to keep chain lubed properly. Main thing is never leave chain wet so it rusts.

I have 4 chains I clean after most rides. Two "X" ring RK chains on the enduro bikes and two normal rollers on the trials bikes.

It was sending me a little "chain crazy" but I have it down to a fine art now. You can do as little as or as much of the following as you like...

First tip is to not wash bike with chain on, I remove them... especially the normal rollers, the O ringed can take a hose spray but not a high pressure spray (I don't use a HP spray on bikes).

To clean the chains I have made a tray out of house rain down pipe. Its a square shape here so I cut it in half and folded the ends to give a leak proof tray the length of the chains.

I place up to 4 chains in it but mostly two as we usually only take two bikes on day trips. I clean with kerosene as per RK recommendations and a small paint brush. It will not affect O rings in the sealed chains.

Once clean in the tray I remove wipe with rag and hang in sun for a bit to dry.

The roller chains I then place in a small bucket of Inox (lubricant) for a few hours or until nearly at next ride day. I then pull up and let drain into inox bucket.

The tray with kero I pour into old paint tin so the sediment settles to bottom. Most of the kero can be poured off slowly into suitable container for re-use. Sediment tin is lidded for next clean session. As sediment fills tin I let it dry out and lid it and toss.

Bike's sprockets are quickly cleaned with a rag with a splash of kero on it.

Once the Inox has stopped dripping I place chain on bike and run chain through rag. Chain done for next ride or ready for static practice during the week.

The sealed chains go back on and are lubed with a sponge I keep in a small plastic box soaked with lube... the lubricant of choice is as RK recommended, they say gear oil but it stinks too much for me or use synthetic motor oil (10w-40 because its used in my car).

At ride areas I spray some Inox on both bikes chains about half way through day, trial or maybe 20 sections. Chains is still original on Beta and sprockets show no sign of wear.

I spray sealed chains with Inox at ride area as well.

Inox may not be available outside Australia??? But a similar product must be local for most.Here is blurb and pic... it is a clear fluid...

Mags

The only lubricant in the world with the special MX3 anti-corrosion, anti-moisture formula for The twenty – first century.

Inox contains no silicon, acid, kerosene or dieselene. Inox will not harm metal points or surfaces, plastics, paints, enamels, fibreglass, formica or neoprene seals. Inox doesn’t dry out, gum up, become gooey or sticky or wash off with water! Inox is non- conductive, non-static, non-toxic, non-corrosive and non-staining.

Edited July 2, 201412 yr by mags

Oy.........I use WD40 and the like to remove oils and greases, it's not lube no matter what they say

I'm prolly just gonna use Chain lube like I have been since 1980

WD just works on a low speed trials bike! Tri-Flow works better

Edited July 3, 201412 yr by copemech