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Old Bultaco

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Thanks Speshal,

 

I've made several attempts to get into the shed but have been repeatedly ambushed!

 

No names, no pack drill!!

 

Larry 2.

  • 4 months later...
  • Replies 120
  • Views 48.8k
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  • Put the cog on a piece of paper and draw around it, then turn the cog around to the good bit and finish the teeth locations and you should have your answer. Steve.

  • Hello guys,                    Just a small update.   Got the tank back from the spray shop. I think it looks pretty good. I have to apply the decals but forgot to measure the exact location, Doh!

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Hello guys,

            Just got a quote for chroming levers, handlebars etc. A bit eye watering! I think I'll go with some new stuff instead which will work out cheaper.

It'll be the new year before I put that in train at this stage.

 

Happy Christmas all. Thanks for the help during the year.

 

Larry 2.

  • 8 months later...

Things have been at a standstill for a good while due to illness. But I have started to work on the old Model 10 once again. Ordered a bunch of spares from Inmotion and managed to obtain a rear brake plate on Ebay all the way from Utah! The old one was badly broken.

Anyway, a question, how the bloody hell does one compress the rings to get the piston into the bore? Don't tell me I have to get a ring compressor please!!

I await guidance!

Larry 2.

Get a shet of thin stainless steel that is a bit longer in length then the bore of or the length of the circle of the piston.

Wrap the sheet around and thigtening it with a hose clamp for example so the rings get compressed in the groove of the piston.

Now you can place the piaton with the wrapped steel sheet to the bottom of the cylinder and push the piston through the stainless steel compression in the cylinder.

Make shure to use some oil and make sure to pushthe piston in the exact right position inside the cylinder. 

Also make sure when mounting the thin steel sheet that the rings are too sitting in the right position.

 

 

 

Glad that what ever you had is better and that you are back at the model 10.

It is always good to see an old bike brought back to life and we look forward to pics.

Cheers, Scott

I know a company that do galvanic and chrom coatings very price worthey. If you are interested? Due to environment regulations prices have gone up and also less and less company's are doing this for private customers. 

Use nylon cable ties to hold the rings in place, insert piston into barrel and cut as the piston travels up into the bore.

Thanks guys,

There's a couple of options re. piston which I will try.

Regards chroming, I decided to purchase some new parts ( handlebars, Levers) and will refurbish some other stuff.

I have this notion particularly about old cars and in this case, bikes, that there should be some evidence of a past life so I tend to leave some knocks and dinks as a sign of that. I don't seek perfection because if one wants that, just buy a new machine. So I want my machinery to be just like me, scarred mentally and physically!

Larry 2. 

Two person job, one to support the barrel and one to compress the ring, never had a problem.

You can also support the cylinder so it sits about half way down on the studs,then compress the rings and lift the piston up into the cylinder.

Thanks guys,

             Got the rings/ piston sorted. Any idea what the torque settings for the cylinder head studs are? Or does one go by feel,

Larry 2.

Hello guys,

Any ideas re the torque settings?

Larry 2.

Thanks Scot,

I'll go with that.

Another daft question, how does one tell the difference between a 428 and 520 chain?

Larry 2.

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