Use a 20 ml medical syringe. Remove the plunger and discard. Touch the outlet nozzle of the syringe on a hot plate to seal. I mix one litre at a time. I use 8 ml per litre, add the oil to your petrol then flush the syringe with the petrol a couple of times to remove the residue on the syringe walls for accuracy of oil component.

I'm using 48ml for 5 lit of fuel

Finally have the frame totally stripped.Getting the fuel pump etc out is a bit tricky.My coworker loaned me a Mactool fuel line tool set that made the job really easy.It would be very tough without it.I'll cross reference the fuel filter for a replacement.

My fuel pump failed at 100 hours. If you search for Tmax or YZ250/450 fuel pump on eBay, they are £30. I'd replace it now. Also, when you reassemble the fuel couplings, lock wire them to prevent uncoupling. It'll save you the heartache of an engine removal.

Thanks for the tips kt-milley. The frame is finally ready for powdercoat.Just a little pressure washing to be done.

Got some parts.

It's not easy being green.

ric where did you get the sticker kit from, mines a factory bike

with that kit on and I would like to get some now for when I

sell it as some are looking a bit rough

Bought the kit at my local Ossa dealer.http://dualsportplus.com/

Try Zone Trial for kits in Europe. I have found them to be very good and euro to pound is quite good now.

http://www.zonetrial.com/ArticleDetail.aspx?langue=E&Modele=Complete+kit+of+stickers+Ossa+TR300i++factory+2013&Id_Article=8411

The swingarm bushings needed to be removed for black powdercoat.A suitable sized socket and hammer did the trick.(thanks Jason)

For measuring my 2t oil I use 100 ml syringe (about £5 to £6 for 2 on Ebay). Take plunger out then put my finger over nozzle, Pour in 2t oil to right level then put nozzle over fuel can as I pull my finger away. Leave to drain and flush through with petrol to get all oil out.

I would never go as lean as 100:1 let alone 140:1.

The Ossa has a metal fuel tank and as such will suffer from water condensing inside it on cold nights unless it is brim full. Synthetic oil can be badly affected by quite small amounts of water, much more so than mineral oil.

The photograph of the crankcase mouth is revealing. Note the machining mark on the right hand side transfer port that is not visible on the other side. Looking at one or two other areas its looks as if these parts of the transfer ports are mismatched, a sign of poor quality control which does not bode well for the barrel port quality. It might be worth getting a two stroke tuner to check and blueprint the ports.

Cylinder is back from getting a new nikasil liner.

All clean ready to install piston.

Lubed up ready for a worry free break in.Note the second base gasket.

Cylinder lubed the same.

Nice easy install.

The dots will keep track of how far the cylinder bolts move to achieve 25Nm torque.The last bolt under the coolant pipe can't be reached with the wrench.I turned the last one the same amount.

Couldn't find an extra long T45.I cut the "L" off a torx wrench and welded a nut on it.Cheap and works well.

And after getting it this far.I think i have the piston in backwards.The arrow should face the exhaust port...right? No harm done.

Can't believe you admitted that, arrow has always faced the exhaust port on any bike I've ever owned but they've always had forward facing exhausts.

Have a look at your old piston & see where the pegs for the ends of the rings are, they need to be away from the exhaust port