9/52 is ridiculously low Betas aren't high in 1st and 2nd as standard .As regards stalling with the clutch in it sounds like it needs the clutch modded as described on the Beta Clutch Fix post on the Beta forum . Trials is the most skilful of all motorbike disciplines,don't expect too much too soon,respect to you for having a go .Some lessons from someone like Steve Saunders would be a good idea

9/52 is ridiculously low Betas aren't high in 1st and 2nd as standard .As regards stalling with the clutch in it sounds like it needs the clutch modded as described on the Beta Clutch Fix post on the Beta forum . Trials is the most skilful of all motorbike disciplines,don't expect too much too soon,respect to you for having a go .Some lessons from someone like Steve Saunders would be a good idea

Hi, I thought it was a bit on the low side too, the instructors were running similar gearing on their sherco 125s, but they are different bikes altogether. I've attempted the clutch fix, filing between the tabs. I need to get a new clutch case really as I did a repair job on the magnesium case. The oil still goes milky during running- I do change the oil monthly too. I'll take the plates out again when I replace the case and give them a clean if need be. I have put new levers on the bike, maybe the adjustment isn't quite right.

I'll have to save up for Steve Saunders. Trials is harder than it looks, sections are harder to ride than they look- but I still have fun riding

Hi, I thought it was a bit on the low side too, the instructors were running similar gearing on their sherco 125s, but they are different bikes altogether. I've attempted the clutch fix, filing between the tabs. I need to get a new clutch case really as I did a repair job on the magnesium case. The oil still goes milky during running- I do change the oil monthly too. I'll take the plates out again when I replace the case and give them a clean if need be. I have put new levers on the bike, maybe the adjustment isn't quite right.

I'll have to save up for Steve Saunders. Trials is harder than it looks, sections are harder to ride than they look- but I still have fun riding

I would be concerned about milky oil in the clutch as it may be a faulty waterpump seal and possibly the water is causing your clutch issues, I did the clutch mod to my EVO last year as it was sticking when cold but on one occasion it did as yours did and stuck when hot with the clutch pulled in, I stalled the bike and restarted and it worked fine for the rest of the day,

After the clutch mod not only is it no longer sticking but the gear change is much lighter and easier.

Steve,

Did you just clean out the glue between the friction pads or did you do the whole mod filing and polishing the ends of the tabs? If there's a bike that would benefit most from a smooth clutch it's probably a little 125.

Also make sure your idle is high enough.

I would be concerned about milky oil in the clutch as it may be a faulty waterpump seal and possibly the water is causing your clutch issues, I did the clutch mod to my EVO last year as it was sticking when cold but on one occasion it did as yours did and stuck when hot with the clutch pulled in, I stalled the bike and restarted and it worked fine for the rest of the day,

After the clutch mod not only is it no longer sticking but the gear change is much lighter and easier.

Steve,

I really do need to replace the clutch case, I've done a repair on the original magnesium one but it's still a porous material and as you say, milky oil is a concern. Unfortunately I've been put down to 7 hours on my zero hour contract, so can't afford to do much at the moment. The bike stalled every time I stopped more or less yesterday, with the idle turned up too.

Did you just clean out the glue between the friction pads or did you do the whole mod filing and polishing the ends of the tabs? If there's a bike that would benefit most from a smooth clutch it's probably a little 125.

It's a 200, haha, but it could still benefit from a smooth clutch as you say. I only did the glue between the pads, it did improve the clutch for a while but now it's gotten worse again. I'll do the rest of the mod, thanks

I wouldn't put a 9 on just go bigger on tha back.

I wouldn't put a 9 on just go bigger on tha back.

Thanks. I think I just need to learn how to ride the clutch in low speed situations. They had set up some fairly tight sections yesterday and in first gear clutch engaged the bike was a bit too quick and kept stalling. I do have a 10 I could put on the front instead of 11, but I found with that set up you lose too much momentum and you get more wheel spin if that makes sense?

Betas are pretty low geared anyway, not sure of standard size on a 200 but wouldn't go more than 2 extra on rear.

standard is 11/42, I've got 11/44 on there. I'll live with it a bit and try slowing the bike down with the clutch if needed in sections. I can't blame the bike for poor technique

Yeah the glue between the pads just fixes the cold stick. The filing and polish of the tabs is what gives the clutch a progressive engagement. I know it's a pain to do but well worth it. Being able to have the engine in the heart of the powerband while feeding just enough to the rear wheel makes all the difference. Especially on the smaller bikes.

Edited February 1, 201511 yr by dan williams

Yeah the glue between the pads just fixes the cold stick. The filing and polish of the tabs is what gives the clutch a progressive engagement. I know it's a pain to do but well worth it. Being able to have the engine in the heart of the powerband while feeding just enough to the rear wheel makes all the difference. Especially on the smaller bikes.

Did the mod again last night, the tab part this time. Worked a treat today, didn't stall with the clutch in so well happy.

I've got a problem with my front brake. It's been like this for about two weeks. It worked fine for a while, then all of a sudden you lose all pressure. If you squeeze it a couple of times the pressure comes back. I've bled the brake, taken the brake pads out and cleaned out inside the caliper but the problem persists. There are some new levers on there now, maybe I haven't got them adjusted correctly?

Hmmm is your rotor bent? A bent rotor will slowly push the caliper open so when you first pull the brake it has to take up the slack. A small leak will show up as braking pressure that slowly decreases while the lever is held. A worn seal in the master cylinder will feel similar.

Air in the line will make the brake spongy.

If you hold the lever in once pressure is built does it stay or does it slowly get mushy?

Edited February 2, 201511 yr by dan williams

Hmmm is your rotor bent? A bent rotor will slowly push the caliper open so when you first pull the brake it has to take up the slack. A small leak will show up as braking pressure that slowly decreases while the lever is held. A worn seal in the master cylinder will feel similar.

Air in the line will make the brake spongy.

If you hold the lever in once pressure is built does it stay or does it slowly get mushy?

The bike did land heavily on the brake side during the last trial I went to, so could be from that. You pull the lever in, the pressure slowly gets mushy. I was dragging the front brake practising turns today and after a couple of minutes doing so there was no brake whatsoever, the pressure had gone.

...but you can pump it up again yes? That sounds like a leak in the system. I'd try a rebuild kit for the master cylinder first. On an older bike they're usually due for replacement. Before you do though make sure your bleeder valve is snugged properly as that can bleed pressure too.