huski

A product has to be fit for purpose, which this clearly wasn't. You might have to get legal help to pursue the case but you would win

Where are you getting the plugs from?There's a lot of duff ones on the Internet that look identical to genuine ones

Thats how it should be,there's a pinch bolt on the other side to the brake.

There's many riders down here in their 60s who are still pretty good,at 58 you've got some time to go if your health and fitness allows.Youre lucky you can get out and ride without complaints,we've got nowhere

There's drain holes in the bottom of the swing arm at the spindle end which are easily blocked ,ending up with the adjustment bolts sitting in water .If they've not been greased they seize up easily.Worth replacing them with stainless steel ones

Haven Trialsport used to do them and were very helpful. Worth a call

Seems odd to me too,old bikes that nobody wanted are now £1500 ,I assume they're selling.I could sell my TRS for more than I paid for it 18 months ago.Dont know where people are riding them,there were no meetings in November,a few in December and none now and for the foreseeable future

Its 2010,worth about £1700 as a trade in

Seems some of them are bad starters and some aren't.Weve had 4 300s.and they've all been 3 kick max starters.Never had to muck about pulling them back on compression or anything.If any of them became difficult to start a meticulous carb clean fixed it.They definitely didn't like a weak idle mixture,used to set them up very slightly rich and never open the throttle when starting

If you use super unleaded it doesn't go off,just mix up 5 litres and use it when you want

It's the the horizontal brass one that is closest to the airbox Other one alters the tickover speed,gets faster the more you screw it in

Idle mixture screw wants to be about 1/1.5 turns out

Doesn't sound like CDI,sounds more like carburation.CDI causes bad misfiring,won't rev or won't start.Id have the carb off ,clean it out and check the jetting,could be someone's been altering things.

Tubeless rims don't have security bolts.I expect it has a tube in it because it wouldn't hold air.Best bike of its time in my opinion

A blob of weld on the stand bracket to stop the stand swinging forward so far works,holds the bike more upright,I've done it to mine,Take the bracket off the bike to do it

The One R is more than enough for virtually everyone,just pick the engine size that you like best.The RR and Gold are technically better,but most riders won't feel or need the difference

Don't think it's the cap,next time it does It take the cap off and see if there's a difference .Check the plug that joins the stator to the wiring loom at the back of the cylinder,water ingress there can make it run badly.Seems heat related so can't rule out the CDI,

Think it's too tight,0.05mm would be better.Is the cylinder or old piston marked A,B,C ?

No significant changes,really depends on the price difference and how long you plan to keep it.Price difference between years decreases as time passes,to the point when condition is more important than age.

Venhill at Dorking would make you one,if not a lot of the road bike workshops could if you took the old one as a pattern

I did mine every 4 rides,might be over cautious but I never had any problems.I feel that £5 of oil is a lot cheaper and easier than an engine rebuild

They seem to be a love or hate bike.Ive tried a few and don't think they are as good or easy to ride as my TRRS,definitely heavier to throw about.They sound great and are very well made but I wouldn't buy one.Having said that those that get on with them wouldn't have anything else,I think you'll have to ride it a lot before you decide which is best for you

Are the wheel spacers right?Disc should sit central in the calliper,,does it centralise if you swap the spacers side to side

Change the gearbox oil often on a Gas gas,it lubes the main bearings too.

Agreed