huski

Gearbox breather goes to a small reservoir which overflows if the box is overfilled.Dont see anything else wrong

I felt the rear suspension on my 2014 Jotagas to be excellent,gripped well and took impacts well without rebounding too much and bouncing off.Dont know how it coped with big steps as I'm not good enough to try them.I think that a lot of riders were put off by the linkage as it was different and didn't trust the design,

Prices seem to have risen since lockdown,looks like you need £3k to get something that doesn't need work doing.

On mine the tap was held in with a hose clip and ju st pushed in.I removed the tap for easier access

Hi,I used the normal one,not realising there was an alternative.Id use the plastic one,can't be worse

The ignition timing isn't adjustable on this bike,the stator doesn't have slotted mounting holes.Shame ,it would be a cheap and easy way to calm it down.I suggest if you really like the way it rides other than the power,sell it and get the 250 model

Used JB weld on mine when it had the same problem.It held for the 2 years I had the bike.You have to get the area really clean,I scuffed it up then zapped it with brake cleaner

Think the inserts are colour coded.You can see the insert where the spark plug screws in.Your importer would know what is standard

What's your budget?Wouldnt recommend a 290 Beta as a first bike,unless it's cheap and in good condition If you're anything of a mechanic you could calm it down with the suggested methods,not so good if you have to pay someone to sort it out.Youd be better off with the best condition 250 you can afford,Beta or Gas gas

Can they send you a video with it running?The clutch will rattle till you pull it in which is normal,should be quietish apart from that.If it looks tidy go for it,they're a good proven bike with good spares availability.The current model isn't much different

If the towing vehicles lights are not obscured by what's being towed you don't need lights on the trailer.Makes fitting a tow bar much cheaper,or fit it your self.If you can compently maintain a bike fitting a tow bar should be doable

Look up Beta Clutch Fix on here.The latest Beta Evos use essentially the same clutch

300 has more grunt at low revs,280 is more revvy,like a powerful 250 with more bottom end power.300 is slightly more powerful.

I bought my TRRS because I like the way it rides,the build quality,and the support from the Importer

Think the problem is WD 40 on the disc and pads.Fit new pads and clean the disc thoroughly with brake cleaner,the old pads will never be any good.The brakes on this bike should be very good after you do this

See how slowly you can do the obstacles,in an event you seldom get much run up.Try doing them straight after a 90 degree turn so that the front wheel is almost on the obstacles.Practice turning around the trees to get used to balancing the clutch against the back brake,you'll probably find one direction easier than the other.Theres lots of instructional stuff on Utube,study them.Dont expect too much too soon,the top guys make it look easy,and it really isn't,have fun

Is it the same length between the mounting bolt holes?Also the same width across the mountings,less important if you can get mounting bushes made.Remove your present shock and get measuring,ask the Reiger owner to do the same

I really rate my 280 ,more like a powerful 250 than a lesser powered 300.Theres quite a difference between the 250 and the 300,you really need to test ride to decide

Don't think I explained this properly.Theres a radiused edge on the inner race of the bearing and the spacer locates on this,my guesstimate of 1mm is too much.You can move this spacer over just enough for the socket to access it.As others have suggested a proper bearing remover is best

On mine,there's no top hat spacers or rose joint at the bottom ( Reiger shock) it has the fork that straddles the top bearing in the linkage.It has a rose joint at the top mount.Is the shock mount different on the shock on the Non RR models?

I've ground down the O/D of a socket to a sliding fit in the bearing.I warm up the hub with a heat gun and tap the end of the spacer,,the bearing comes out easily?The spacer locates in the bearing about 1 mm so you can't lever it aside.Alternatively get a suitably sized Rawlbolt and tighten it into the bearing and knock it out from the other side

We all know,but don't always admit,that the rider makes the biggest difference and he's very talented as well as having a well sorted bike

A lot of the generation that could be coming into trials can only afford a flat with nowhere to store a trials bike.Seems many of them have taken up mountain biking and keep the bike in the flat

I wouldn't change them till the winter,they'll be fine in the dry

Clutch comes off complete,one cap head Allen bolt in the centre holds it on shaft