arw Report post Posted January 25, 2015 Hello all, just bought a 2011 sherco 250, its only ridden a few trials otherwise its be stored in a garage and started from time to time. apparently its only done 3 trials! and its like new! anyway, was there a mod to stop it flooding during transport, I was warned it can flood because you cannot turn the fuel off, and it was a bugger to start when I got home. and what the hell is map 1 and map 2 on the handle bars? thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cabby Report post Posted January 25, 2015 There is a fuel tap at the bottom of the tank on the 2011 model, should be right at the bottom of the tank beside the pump, turn it back towards the rear. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the addict Report post Posted January 25, 2015 and what the hell is map 1 and map 2 on the handle bars? thanks If they're anything like my 2007 Cabby, map 1 will be "mental" and map 2 will be "mental" 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dadof2 Report post Posted January 25, 2015 The maps alter the ignition timing advance curves and give different power characteristics. You lose control slightly less fast on the soft setting. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copemech Report post Posted January 26, 2015 Many do away with the map switch as most folks of normal ability cannot tell the difference anyway! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markmark Report post Posted January 26, 2015 I just bought the same bike and carnt tell the difference between the maps mine came fitted with a 2010 tank as the last oner didn't like the way ya filled the 2011 is there a tap on the 2010 tank Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
arw Report post Posted February 7, 2015 this bike does not have a fuel tap! ive looked and looked and looked! It floods sometimes when not running, could the float be sticking in the carb, not had time to clean it yet. any other solutions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copemech Report post Posted February 8, 2015 Call Splatshop or email to see if they have any of them small inline fuel taps that were used on the earlier models that came without. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ian640 Report post Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Are you sure it's a 2011 and not a 2010? What colour is the frame? What makes you think it's flooding? My 2010 would 'flood' if it didn't start on the first few kicks. Edited February 11, 2015 by ian640 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
arw Report post Posted February 15, 2015 its a white frame, plastics say 2011? it is terrible. sometimes if you leave it ten minutes and try and kick it off itl hardy turn over and you have to take the spark plug out and the cylinder is full to the brim with petrol! i think the pump is leaking internally to fill up the bike like that. its a general bad starter, you have to open the throttle right up to kick it off when its warm, then it needs cleaning out and runs like a tractor. it doesnt have a tap and i havnt got round to putting one in yet. this weeks job. lastest problem is the front brake sticking, looked a fool today at the trial falling off constantly. give me back my old bomproof 04 290 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve_earle Report post Posted February 15, 2015 The fuel tap did not get added till 2012/13, Sounds like the floats need sorting in the carb. A fuel tap will not stop it flooding as fuel should not flow past the pump unless it's running, If it's leaking from the carb it's only whats in the float bowl. the 2011 had ignition problems that made them a pain to start and they used to back fire here and there, The triggers in the stator used to go bad, If your good with a soldering iron its a £2 fix or £80 if you send it off. Sort the floats and check the float needle is shutting off, Stick a new plug in and gap it to 0.6mm. Then see how it is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copemech Report post Posted February 16, 2015 Well if a 250 it should be a standard dellorto carb. If it does flood while just sitting there I would suspect a float setting or float needle valve problem, nothing to do with a pump if it is not pumping! The carb works the same as with gravity flow, no difference. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biffsgasgas Report post Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) Cope is right. These usually don't need a fuel tap to keep them from over flowing. Delorto's needle and float should keep it from flooding if not in use as long as it is adjusted properly. I would set float height and clean the needle. I only turn my fuel off about 3 mins before I realize it which puts me just about in the middle of a section. Its happened too consistently to not be true. The only reason why i shut mine off is if i lay it down before going to walk a section. --Biff Edited February 16, 2015 by biffsgasgas Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bultaco82 Report post Posted February 19, 2015 I have a 2011 290 Sherco and had the flooding problem when transporting the bike. You need a fuel shut off installed. The vibration when transporting causes the floats to open and shut. With no shut off and apparently the design of the fuel pump, it will overfill the float bowl till it runs into the motor. That was the only time I had flooding problems. I had to drain the motor when I got to an event to get it started and when I got it home after an event, the same thing. The shut off cured it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bultaco82 Report post Posted February 19, 2015 The fuel tap did not get added till 2012/13, Sounds like the floats need sorting in the carb. A fuel tap will not stop it flooding as fuel should not flow past the pump unless it's running, If it's leaking from the carb it's only whats in the float bowl. the 2011 had ignition problems that made them a pain to start and they used to back fire here and there, The triggers in the stator used to go bad, If your good with a soldering iron its a £2 fix or £80 if you send it off. Sort the floats and check the float needle is shutting off, Stick a new plug in and gap it to 0.6mm. Then see how it Steve Two thoughts. How do you test the triggers to see if they're bad(and what do they look like). On my bike the pump apparently did push fuel through with the vibration of traveling. Any thoughts as to why it might? I figured the bumping caused the diaphram to pulse and push fuel. A shut off cured it but maybe there was something wrong with the pump. I'm curious now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites