Hi Folks, my Vertigo ('17 Ice Hell 300) rear linkage has developed a fair amount of play in the swingarm. Appears the dog bones are worn. I have heard there is a newer rear linkage design for the '18 and newer models which I believe is compatible with the '17 models (?). Anyone know if this is so? And if it is recommended to make the switch? Or should I just replace dog bones and be done with it?

Cheers!

 

Edited July 16, 20188 yr by cackallacky

vertigo uk list a titanium rod for the rear end

http://www.vertigomotors.co.uk/index.php/racing-parts/vertigo/titanium-tie-rod-linkage-v-0700-detail

Edited July 16, 20188 yr by jsp

4 hours ago, Nebulous said:

The revised parts for the 2018 rear-linkage are the “knuckle-joint” and the two rods.  If replacing the rods with 2018 models - it is advised to replace the knucke-joint at the same time , in order to stay within the bounds of Vertigo’s continuing vision. Whatever that is?

Otherwise you should be able to retro-order two linkage-rods in 2017 spec and fit those to your original knucle to retain current geometry.  Sorry I can’t be more help.  I was advised that constant tweaking of the rear suspension is Vertigo’s habit.  It is unclear to me whether the revised geometry is a performance-upgrade , or whether it’s simply to keep the cost of the new rods down?  In any case - the 2018 geo goes hand in hand with shock and spring tweaks. So even if you were to buy the new knuckle and rods - you would need to check with Vertigo themselves as to whether there is a change in spring-rate and shock-valving.  

Many thanks for the info! I think I'll just stick with the current geo setup, which performs fine by my standards and will replace the worn dog bones and thru rods. At least they are really easy to get to.

Cheers!

Huh?

 Your choice of bars on the TY.

When you get new bearings and steel bushes, assemble with a lot of waterproof grease and fit an extra O ring to each of the 6 bushes, such that a tight fitting O ring comes up against the shoulder part of the bush. After 1 1/2  yrs use in wet conditions, there is no wear. Getting the last bolt undone is a nuisance, but with the rear brake lever removed, you can just to say get the short end of an allen key in at the bolt, been meaning to grind one a bit shorter to help. Also managed to get a 1/2" drive Torx bit to fit the socket screw head (T45 I think) which helps too.I don't have any 1/2" hex drives. Pretty sure that the new 2018 rocker has a different geometry to the older bikes. I rode a 2018 model which feels like it sits up a tad higher at the back and is easier to bounce the back wheel around than on my Ice 300. Bye, Peter B.

8 hours ago, lineaway said:

 Your choice of bars on the TY.

I must have missed something. Anyway, I don't own a TY, I've only ridden a borrowed one once. I'm surprised it even had bars, since it definitely had no brakes. 

On 7/17/2018 at 12:33 PM, peterb said:

When you get new bearings and steel bushes, assemble with a lot of waterproof grease and fit an extra O ring to each of the 6 bushes, such that a tight fitting O ring comes up against the shoulder part of the bush. After 1 1/2  yrs use in wet conditions, there is no wear. Getting the last bolt undone is a nuisance, but with the rear brake lever removed, you can just to say get the short end of an allen key in at the bolt, been meaning to grind one a bit shorter to help. Also managed to get a 1/2" drive Torx bit to fit the socket screw head (T45 I think) which helps too.I don't have any 1/2" hex drives. Pretty sure that the new 2018 rocker has a different geometry to the older bikes. I rode a 2018 model which feels like it sits up a tad higher at the back and is easier to bounce the back wheel around than on my Ice 300. Bye, Peter B.

Hi Peter, I'm in the process of replacing all of the 6 x rear suspension bearings and bushings on my 2017 250 Combat Camo - the bushes were worn and the bearings were completely shot. I was interested in your idea about installing o-rings along with the new replacements. Did you not find that the o-ring caused any binding between the shoulder of the bush and the outsides of the bearings that they squish up to? I assume it also means that the bushings don't penetrate the bearings as far as they used to, since the o-rings at each side will hold them out a bit - interested in your thoughts before I put it all back together. I would like to improve water-resilience (we ride in streams, a lot) but don't want to introduce any stiffness in the motion of the components by sandwiching an o-ring between the bushings and bearings - or any additional "looseness" by the bushings not fully inserting into bearings, due to the additional thickness of the 0-rings against the bushing collars.

Would really appreciate your additional thoughts..... thanks in advance.  

On 7/17/2018 at 4:33 AM, peterb said:

When you get new bearings and steel bushes, assemble with a lot of waterproof grease and fit an extra O ring to each of the 6 bushes, such that a tight fitting O ring comes up against the shoulder part of the bush. After 1 1/2  yrs use in wet conditions, there is no wear. Getting the last bolt undone is a nuisance, but with the rear brake lever removed, you can just to say get the short end of an allen key in at the bolt, been meaning to grind one a bit shorter to help. Also managed to get a 1/2" drive Torx bit to fit the socket screw head (T45 I think) which helps too.I don't have any 1/2" hex drives. Pretty sure that the new 2018 rocker has a different geometry to the older bikes. I rode a 2018 model which feels like it sits up a tad higher at the back and is easier to bounce the back wheel around than on my Ice 300. Bye, Peter B.

Did you put o-rings where I have thee red marks?  Or somewhere else?  What size/diameter?

i got a box of assorted o rings and mine are fitted where the green circles are 

2 hours ago, jsp said:

i got a box of assorted o rings and mine are fitted where the green circles are 

Oooo.. you doubled them up against the Lip Seals in the “triangle” eh?

Where you have the green circles is where we put them, have to say the newer models are better sealed, but we still use extra O rings. Only last week I stripped one down after about 18 months use, no play in the linkage and no signs of water ingress, rust or wear. Bye, Peter B.

On 11/3/2020 at 7:22 PM, peterb said:

Where you have the green circles is where we put them, have to say the newer models are better sealed, but we still use extra O rings. Only last week I stripped one down after about 18 months use, no play in the linkage and no signs of water ingress, rust or wear. Bye, Peter B.

It's a good tip - how many O-rings or at least how thick of ones did you use?  There's quite a gap between those spacers and the "triangle".