richtr300i

Oh, and dumb question - is your map switch in Sunny or Wet?

Multiple questions: First - where are you located? Second - when you do an oil change/service, only refill with 375 ml. (That prevents puking into the air box). If you pull the sidecover and transmission, you can see there’s a little leftover oil. Putting in 400 ml will eventually overfill. The sight glass is just for a “is the oil gross” check, not a level indication. Third - Non-ethanol premium mixed at least 130:1 or or 150:1 will do you fine. No special 2-stroke or trials fuels required. Factory recommendation is 0.06% ratio. That works out to be about 160:1. So the 30 ml to 5 Litres of fuel is pretty close. 30 ml to 4 Liters is is 133:1. Or just a smidge less than 1 oz to 1 gallon (128 oz) works. Easiest thing to go is a get a 4 liter or 5 liter measuring pitcher and a 60 ml “syringe” off Ama-zone. Fourth - air filters get “lightly” oiled… many people over oil…chokes the bike. I’ve ridden Verts at 12,500 feet and sea level for 5 years. Lemme know if you have further questions.

Also, for anyone taking it apart, loosen the 4 screws on the bottom of the skid plate, before removing/installing the Swingarm Pivots.

Sent you a message.

What I've read is advanced timing can lose top end. A vertigo's timing can be advanced using software, within pre-established limits in the software.

Interesting... Okay, so 2-stroke tuning is Voodoo. Or something like it. http://www.ijettjournal.org/2018/volume-58/number-1/IJETT-V58P205.pdf However, for faster rpm gain, i would think you'd want to read this one - http://www.amrca.com/tech/tuners.pdf page 157 Summary here http://dragonfly75.com/motorbike/timingcurves.html I don't think ignition timing is the thing here. Maybe fuel/air mix? So, the 2021 Works Bikes have the V-0494 throttle body. 2022 Nitro has V-1612 Racing Throttle Body, same as the 2022 R-3s. It could be possible your TPS needs to be reset, or a new plug and a little less oil on the filter? Please don't take this the wrong way, but, maybe a slight technique adjustment? Throttle before an obstacle, let the engine gain rpm, then dump the clutch? Of course, I have zero idea of the level you ride/train at... but I've seen some guys from up there in BC modify the throttle cable guide.. to have a 2 position throttle. Full On or Full On. Something about a drill bit and some duct tape? Pretty sure these are some of the quickest revving bikes out there, but I've never put one on a dyno.

Uh, did you ask they seller why they put in a new piston? Tolerances are super tight in these cylinders/pistons combos, it's not unheard of for someone to fire up a bike cold, rip it at full throttle, and seize it... (course, they'll deny all day when a rider does it). So, always go easy on her until the fan has cycled on/off a time or two... But, no, not unusual at all. How many hours on the bike? What oil/fuel ratio did they run? What level of rider? How's the rest of the bike? I've owned one of each year since Vertigo came on line. Never had an engine problem. Put about 80 hours a year on them. Mix 150:1 full synth oil on premium pump gas (ethanol free, if you can find it).

Hmmm. So, you want the bottom to be more aggressive? As in "spin up faster" or do you want more "torque"? Maybe either add a quick turn throttle...or a flywheel weight?

Ya, no idea. It's rough with the electric motor as there's no "carryover" with the motor going up and over things. On mine it's almost like it has braking built in even though I don't have the FRB switch. The motor really doesn't freewheel.

I'm frustrated, and incorrectly vented on CPD. They're not the target, it's EM. I see their product (EM that is) as 95% complete, and I asked EM 2 years ago about an "idle" function and they said it's not possible. Yet here they are offering Tickover on 2022 models. Irritating not to have a retrofit especially from a computer based controller. And that's not CPD's fault it's EM. My apologies to CPD and Mark Berg. I surely do not understand the challenges of being an importer.

I ground some off there too.

I'm a dick. CPD is doing the best they can, with what EM makes.

I took the pivot bolt out of the kickstand, and then drilled a new hole for the pivot bolt just a little further down the kickstand, then I ground the old hole and kickstand end to be "round" with a flap wheel. Took a while, but made a huge difference. Sorry, didn't take photos..

What I want to know is: 1 - can I retrofit Tickover on my 2021 Race? Why not? 2 - Where to get the FRB button?

Hey Hector, look in this parts book (2017 250s... all the clutches are the same)... http://www.vertigomotors.com/archivos/downloads/parts_book_combat_camo_works_250cc_2017.pdf Anyhow, are you saying the plastic pins that's Number 12 on page 17? When you are putting it back together, you'll have to rock the kickstart shaft back and forth, unless you didn't get the gears clocked in right. Can you take a couple of pictures?

Hey there ya’ll, I have a friend with a 2016 300RR that will only go in 1st or Neutral, but no higher. Any ideas?

Hey Gaz, 130:1 is the ratio. You were running a bit more oil than that... Put in a new spark plug (BPMR6A NGK). Then, run the bike at idle for a minute or so, but get on it and ride gently to warm it up. When the fan comes on, then get into 3rd or 4th gear, and open it up a bit... Idling doesn’t generate much heat/pressure in the cylinder... makes the oil kind of bog up the works... The real trick for longevity is to keep idle time to a minimum....

It's a good tip - how many O-rings or at least how thick of ones did you use? There's quite a gap between those spacers and the "triangle".

I did figure out a way to make starting easier. Put your kickstarter under the ball of your foot, not the arch. What happens is, when you kick, and it’s the arch of your foot, when your heel lands on the foot peg... your kick starter is not all the way through the stroke. However, when the kickstarter is under the ball of your foot... and your heel hits the foot peg... the kickstarter is an inch or two further in the stroke. Try it, see if it helps you.

Oooo.. you doubled them up against the Lip Seals in the “triangle” eh?

Did you put o-rings where I have thee red marks? Or somewhere else? What size/diameter?

That’s probably a forgotten spacer on the R2’s that have a flywheel weight. What about bikes without flywheel weights that are “hard to start” when hot?

So, in 99% of the cases, you shouldn’t need to tune anything on a Vertigo...however the functionality is a thing. For the best source in the US, contact Dustin at MotoLand Trials in Kansas - he’s fiddled with the WiGet the most that I’ve heard of....

What’s the fix?

So, does anyone have a set of these test leads/software near Sacramento? I'm close to Lewisport, if you count a 3 hr drive.