Why,Why,why.are beta clutches still so rubbish Why. Over the years had a number of rev3 then evos  09,11,and now a 17 all 250 all had a clutch issues My 17 is one of the worst, Why is this not fixed yet.I can pull in the clutch in a section and still be driving running me off line. Have done the clutch fix works ok for a while then back to normal Rubbish, change gearbox oil regular. I like the beta evo but this is getting me down.  What are you guys doing to improve the evo clutches 

I improved mine by buying a Gas Gas. Maybe Beta should fit the same type. 

New plates and steels (surflex I think), all plates of the thinner type not two thicker as standard. (On a 2012)

Was spot on but two years later it's starting to get a mild drag.

Haase do a diaphragm clutch but they aren't cheap.

ATF.

Er, welcome to the forum?

Hi dan

Have enjoyed reading all your beta post especially the beta clutch mod, have carried out the mod on a few betas but why do we have to do it  should be sorted by now.

Actually the best thing I did was go to 6 lighter springs. I first did that on my 2010 and also in my 2016. No cold stick, no drag and yes it never slips.

Manufacturers saving pennies basically. Good designs implemented by bean counters is how most products go wrong. They work good enough to get out the door but are never fine tuned enough to be perfect. What's fascinating to me is the various reactions from owners some saying just get on with it and ride the thing to those like me who will have custom parts made and spend hours twiddling to make it perfect. 

Are lighter springs or different washers easily available from anywhere?

I'm one of those owners that once it's close enough will normally just ride the thing.

From a theoretical point of view, why would lighter springs create less drag?  When you pull in the clutch, the pressure plate moves back a fixed distance creating space for the clutch plates to move apart.  When fully disengaged, why would it make a difference if there was 5 lb force or 500 lb force trying to push that pressure plate back in? 

Some degree of compression and distortion means the distance won't be fixed with a different force, can't see it changing by much though, condition of the hydraulics probably makes a bigger difference.

If the parts were easily available I'd give it a try.

On 8/3/2018 at 5:23 AM, lineaway said:

Actually the best thing I did was go to 6 lighter springs. I first did that on my 2010 and also in my 2016. No cold stick, no drag and yes it never slips.

Do you have any information on the lighter springs?

Is there any particular oil that might help? Maybe a different weight?

I just picked up a 2013 Evo and the clutch sticks when cold. The clutch in the Techno I just sold worked perfectly after the fix.

 I used springs from a 160 Gas Gas cut to fit. I have always run ATF in my Beta`s.

On 8/3/2018 at 8:20 PM, mcman56 said:

From a theoretical point of view, why would lighter springs create less drag?  When you pull in the clutch, the pressure plate moves back a fixed distance creating space for the clutch plates to move apart.  When fully disengaged, why would it make a difference if there was 5 lb force or 500 lb force trying to push that pressure plate back in? 

And why do they sell heavier springs? For just the opposite reason. Just take two springs out to notice the effect, but the clutch will always slip in the higher gears. A clutch needs all six springs to work correctly. It is a fine line, but my lever pull is the lightest ever. I had to do it as I cut the tendon in my index finger. The no cold stick and no clutch drag was a benefit.