Hi all, so? Ty80 forks were knackered so in the usual spirit of repair rather than source a replacement which are often as knackered as the ones I've got i sent them off for Re chrome,  straighten and rebuild with new seals. It took months to get them back, so all looked good till the first ride and son says they are locking? They are not moving up and down? When completely compressed back in the garage they knock side to side so I diagnose worn bushes, are these still available and from previous threads I see you can remove the spring clip and slidehammer the whole lot out? But there's a screw in the bottom of the fork leg which I thought held the whole lot together? I don't want to damage them so poss thinking about local bike shop? (Usually very good, old style bike mechanics)any info would be handy, sorry for the long thread but they cost a fortune so far?

The sliders do not have replaceable bushings. The tubes run against the slider bore directly. Sliders can be machined out and sleeved/bushed.

The screw in the bottom is what holds the forks together.

The spring clip only retains the seal in the slider.

Forks jamming at the bottom of the travel is not usually caused by worn sliders.

 

Surely the stanchions should have been plated to match the dimensions of the bearing surfaces?  Did the plater not ask what diameter was required?

Thank you people- indeed they aren't bushed, turns out it's my fault and hadn't checked they were running true from the yokes down, yokes  were a bit twisted and they were very slightly wide at the top which transferred to being tight on the wheel hub, also an acurate oil measure for both legs is a school boy error- there's still a fair bit of slap in the lower legs but they 40 years old I guess?

Hi Fellows. 

Began to rejuvenate my TY80A front forks. 

I was surprised to see a Philips screw at the bottom securing the damper. I am being super cautious and hesitant to begin undoing the Philips head with a Philips screwdriver. I am wondering if I need to invest in a hammer impact driver to undo the screw or an impact wrench?

Also any device I can use to secure the inside as I undo the screw and later tighten up the new bolt?

I will surely want to replace the screw with an Allen Hex bolt like on my TY175C, and new washer. What would be a good washer material to use, copper, fibre.

Thanks. 

See answer on your other post. A good impact wrench is worth its weight in gold.

True the investment of a good impact hammer makes the difference. After a few good whacks the damper rod screw came undone. Next step is either new stanchion rods or have these rather pitted ones redone. 

Also new hardware and copper gaskets. Haven't seen the correct copper gaskets at the local hardware store. Any sources?

Thank you  

 

Hey, at least you stiil have a local hardware store - they've gone, by and large, in the UK to be replaced by big sheds that don't have much of what we want and only packets of "thousands" when they have.

16 hours ago, 2stroke4stroke said:

Hey, at least you stiil have a local hardware store - they've gone, by and large, in the UK to be replaced by big sheds that don't have much of what we want and only packets of "thousands" when they have.

That's universal. There's a few hold outs that buck the system and some willing clients that support the local shops. At least in Portland OR. 

On 9/27/2018 at 3:13 AM, motosolex said:

Hi Fellows. 

Began to rejuvenate my TY80A front forks. 

I was surprised to see a Philips screw at the bottom securing the damper. I am being super cautious and hesitant to begin undoing the Philips head with a Philips screwdriver. I am wondering if I need to invest in a hammer impact driver to undo the screw or an impact wrench?

Also any device I can use to secure the inside as I undo the screw and later tighten up the new bolt?

I will surely want to replace the screw with an Allen Hex bolt like on my TY175C, and new washer. What would be a good washer material to use, copper, fibre.

Thanks. 

I'm late to this discussion, but the screw in the bottom of the fork slider will not be Phillips, it will be JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) which is different despite its visual similarities. 
You will always run a risk of stripping the screw head if you use Pozi or Phillips screwdrivers on Japanese bikes.