Bars were taller, but not much more than you can get today. Going out for a ride November 1974. I could ride to our main trials area 5 minutes from our home.

 

4130 Chromoly sheet is ordered.  Footpeg kit is here.  So the  process begins maybe mid next week to make some cuts. 

So much info shared here has been awesome and very helpful.  Now it becomes a matter of putting ideas to results.

I ordered bar risers for my own MAR.  I will share more on that when they arrive.  Essentially, nothing crazy planned, merely bring the modern Renthals to about the same height and position as what the MAR was when new.  My bike will have stock location footpegs with the KX pegs vs the tiny MAR things.

Thanks everyone, great discussion.

21 hours ago, woody said:

One of mine - just lower, not back or forward.  I don't begin to understand any of that percentage gobbledygook....  sounds like over analysing to me...

PS - brackets are braced behind if they don't look strong enough

Thanks woody

Footpeg support structure has been fabricated, and tack welded into place.  So, I do appreciate the advice given and will post some updates in a bit.  Next will be to verify alignments and double check the pegs have been moved downward only, with very little or ideally, no change to the front or back.

Also, in regards to handlebar position, on my own MAR, I purchased production bar risers.  Have not ridden it yet, but the reposition has moved the bars up 15mm and forward 12mm in relation to the triple clamp flat surface.  Accounting for the triple clamp being tilted on account of the headtube angle, the actual amount forward is less, probably 9 or 10mm.

An easy way to ensure you have both pegs in the same position is to drill a 6mm hole in the centre of the purchased peg bracket and then drill and tap a 6mm thread in the frame or the support you have welded on. You can then obviously bolt the bracket on and rotate the bracket to ensure the pegs are horizontal, it saves trying to G Clamp the bracket in place, then tack weld it, then adjust etc etc, which can be very tedious . This may sound like a lot of work but it guarantees both pegs are in exactly the same position, no guess work, before final welding.

Cheers Greg

47 minutes ago, sherpa325 said:

An easy way to ensure you have both pegs in the same position is to drill a 6mm hole in the centre of the purchased peg bracket and then drill and tap a 6mm thread in the frame or the support you have welded on. You can then obviously bolt the bracket on and rotate the bracket to ensure the pegs are horizontal, it saves trying to G Clamp the bracket in place, then tack weld it, then adjust etc etc, which can be very tedious . This may sound like a lot of work but it guarantees both pegs are in exactly the same position, no guess work, before final welding.

Cheers Greg

Agree.  At the moment, I want to ensure the new brackets are true.  The tacked on peg mounts are so we can ensure the pegs are not droopy or angled forward or aft.  Once that stuff is welded, I will probably do something similar to what you mentioned to attain the height and tilt to be positioned correctly.  None of it is difficult, just time, and best to do right the first time.

22 hours ago, sherpa325 said:

An easy way to ensure you have both pegs in the same position is to drill a 6mm hole in the centre of the purchased peg bracket and then drill and tap a 6mm thread in the frame or the support you have welded on. You can then obviously bolt the bracket on and rotate the bracket to ensure the pegs are horizontal, it saves trying to G Clamp the bracket in place, then tack weld it, then adjust etc etc, which can be very tedious . This may sound like a lot of work but it guarantees both pegs are in exactly the same position, no guess work, before final welding.

Cheers Greg

I wish I'd thought of this Greg. I just went through the clamp, tack, straighten, tack, weld procedure on my KT250

57 minutes ago, feetupfun said:

I wish I'd thought of this Greg. I just went through the clamp, tack, straighten, tack, weld procedure on my KT250

It may seem like overkill but it really doesn't take that much time to do. I have done the last three or so bikes this way and it beats trying to clamp, tack, remove, tack again, check measurements, straighten etc.

Progress was made,  Footpeg structure for the frame mods has been fabricated and installed.  Footpegs are no more than 5mm above the axle centers.  The pegs were  not moved forward or rearward as best we can measure them, and if they have move it could be rearward a mm or two.  Everything is aligned so the pegs are parrallel to the swingarm pivot, same distance rearward, outboard ends are slightly up and footpeg tilt is level front to rear and match within  1/2 degree side to side.  Material used to make the parts was 4130 chromoly steel, 1/8" thick.  forward curved edge is welded to oem frame, the other edges are bent / flanged then welded to give side load support.  We did not box the backside.  Certainly would be stronger.  Do not consider it needed, but time will tell.  It will see cheap paint to sort out any issues before taking it apart again for powdercoat of the frame. I would post a photo but I must be maxed out since no more photos can be posted.

I reckon 1/8"[3mm?] is quite thin. My aftermarket brackets are 4mm and the rear part of the mounting bracket on my GasGas is 5mm. I think you will definitely need some bracing /gusseting in behind where it's not visible.I was riding with a mate a few months ago when he noticed a scraping/rubbing noise when the bike was moving, it turned out to be a bent footrest mount  [late model Sherco] We went back to the cars and basically levered it back into position with a tyre lever with a large shifting spanner on the end of it. The bike hadn't been crashed, bashed etc however he is a big solid guy 6'2" and the bracket had just bent under his weight, he is a pretty aggressive rider though.

Cheers Greg

25 minutes ago, pmk said:

Progress was made,  Footpeg structure for the frame mods has been fabricated and installed.  Footpegs are no more than 5mm above the axle centers.  The pegs were  not moved forward or rearward as best we can measure them, and if they have move it could be rearward a mm or two.  Everything is aligned so the pegs are parrallel to the swingarm pivot, same distance rearward, outboard ends are slightly up and footpeg tilt is level front to rear and match within  1/2 degree side to side.  Material used to make the parts was 4130 chromoly steel, 1/8" thick.  forward curved edge is welded to oem frame, the other edges are bent / flanged then welded to give side load support.  We did not box the backside.  Certainly would be stronger.  Do not consider it needed, but time will tell.  It will see cheap paint to sort out any issues before taking it apart again for powdercoat of the frame. I would post a photo but I must be maxed out since no more photos can be posted.

 

If you become a site supporter you can post as many photos as you want.

When you are talking about the height of the pegs relative to the axles, are you talking about bike laden or unladen?

4 minutes ago, feetupfun said:

If you become a site supporter you can post as many photos as you want.

When you are talking about the height of the pegs relative to the axles, are you talking about bike laden or unladen?

Unladen.  Even my stock footpeg location MAR, when riding the footpegs are below axle centers.

Progress.  Footpeg relocating also entailed relocating the kickstand.  Been busy getting a lot done on this OSSA.  Still getting messages that I can not post photos, otherwise I would.