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smarty156

Replacing lower fork clamp

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7 hours ago, lineaway said:

 Make sure you remove the set screw first.

If you mean the screw that is supposed to stop the top nut coming loose, see my earlier post re the Gorilla that was the previous owner.

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4 hours ago, section swept said:

Making wine to??

You must use some serious yeast if you need to secure the corks with a 6 tonne press. :) Your uncorking parties must be interesting.

Edited by d2w

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7 hours ago, d2w said:

You must use some serious yeast if you need to secure the corks with a 6 tonne press. :) Your uncorking parties must be interesting.

Just sit around and wait for the corks to fly......with any luck quite a few ?on their own???

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Just a quick question on the lower head bearing. The original has a washer, then an O ring and then the lower head bearing. I've bought some Xiu-RDI bearings that come with a seal (kind of like a washer with a rubberised lip). Question is - does the new bearing and seal mean I no longer need the separate washer and o ring? There's nowhere for the O ring to seat so seems fairly obvious it no longer needs that but what about the washer?

Here's a link:

https://www.splatshop.co.uk/xiu-rdi-sealed-steering-head-bearings-32004.html

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Those bearings with a provided seal look interesting. I have no experience with them, but I'd venture that you're correct and that the o-ring isn't applicable as the space the o-ring used to engage is now covered by the seal. As for the washer, it *may* be necessary if you find that if you were to use only the seal you "run out" of thread when tightening the stem nut when tensioning the bearings. If the seal and the original washer are the same thickness then I'd think you're good to go.

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On 4/29/2020 at 11:29 PM, d2w said:

Those bearings with a provided seal look interesting. I have no experience with them, but I'd venture that you're correct and that the o-ring isn't applicable as the space the o-ring used to engage is now covered by the seal. As for the washer, it *may* be necessary if you find that if you were to use only the seal you "run out" of thread when tightening the stem nut when tensioning the bearings. If the seal and the original washer are the same thickness then I'd think you're good to go.

So it seems you do need the washer still. In fact, there were 2 washers on there originally, despite the parts diagram only showing 1. I think it needs both.

So, I'll hopefully have that sorted later and can put it all back together. Any tips for replacing everything (both yokes, forks etc). When I took it all apart I removed front wheel and forks first, then undid the top nut and removed yokes. I was thinking I'd need to put the bottom yoke on and do that up with the lock nut then put the top yoke on and do the top nut up gently, then put forks and front wheel in to get it lined up and finally do up the top nut. Sound ok?

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1 hour ago, smarty156 said:

So it seems you do need the washer still. In fact, there were 2 washers on there originally, despite the parts diagram only showing 1. I think it needs both.

So, I'll hopefully have that sorted later and can put it all back together. Any tips for replacing everything (both yokes, forks etc). When I took it all apart I removed front wheel and forks first, then undid the top nut and removed yokes. I was thinking I'd need to put the bottom yoke on and do that up with the lock nut then put the top yoke on and do the top nut up gently, then put forks and front wheel in to get it lined up and finally do up the top nut. Sound ok?

That's right.Leave the mudguard bolts loose,also the top yoke fork tube bolts and give the forks a good bounce to line things up.Then tighten the top nut a,then the fork tube bolts a little at a time so you don't crack the yoke,then the mudguard.Youll find that tightening the top nut slightly tightens the bearings,you might have to slacken the bearing nut to get the bars to turn freely.Probably have to adjust them again once you've done a trial and they've bedded in.If you drill and tap the head tube to take a grease nipple you can force out any water that gets in,the bearings won't need stripping out ever again

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5 hours ago, huski said:

That's right.Leave the mudguard bolts loose,also the top yoke fork tube bolts and give the forks a good bounce to line things up.Then tighten the top nut a,then the fork tube bolts a little at a time so you don't crack the yoke,then the mudguard.Youll find that tightening the top nut slightly tightens the bearings,you might have to slacken the bearing nut to get the bars to turn freely.Probably have to adjust them again once you've done a trial and they've bedded in.If you drill and tap the head tube to take a grease nipple you can force out any water that gets in,the bearings won't need stripping out ever again

Cheers.

I replaced the bearings because the fork yoke was cracked. I'm going to be doing them up carefully! What's the torque setting for the yoke bolts?

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12 hours ago, smarty156 said:

Cheers.

I replaced the bearings because the fork yoke was cracked. I'm going to be doing them up carefully! What's the torque setting for the yoke bolts?

9nm.if your torque wrench goes that low.I suspect they got cracked by the previous owner not tightening the bolts equally a little bit at a time 

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Setting it to torque is probably how they became broke. They are pinch bolts, it does not need to be cranked down.

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