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Glearacer

Txt Pro No Spark After New Kill Switch

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Hi, I'm sure this question has been asked a million times but here it is again.

Bike running perfectly and decided to fit a new magnetic kill switch. 

Easy peasy, unplug the old one from the CDi side and then swap the earth/ground over from old to new. It was pre wired for terminals. 

Now no spark and I have checked every wire under the tank for breaks, not being connected,  etc. NOTHING

I have a multi meter but not the small probes to check resistance in the CDi multi plug

Can anyone help please? 

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So I have check my wiring which I haven't touched other than the kill switch! And compared to the Gas Gas wiring diagram its different. I'm confused because it was running.

I have attached a drawing of my wiring next to the Gas Gas one for comparison.

Thanks in anticipation!

20210114_205857.jpg

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Some kill switches are circuit open when engaged and some are circuit closed, you could try swapping the wires over that you fitted.

 

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2 minutes ago, paulmac said:

Some kill switches are circuit open when engaged and some are circuit closed, you could try swapping the wires over that you fitted.

 

Thanks for the reply. I actually tried the old switch again and it still didn't have a spark but I will try it with the new one tomorrow. 

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Before you do anything else, remove any switches totally , and ensure you still have a spark. This will confirm its a switch issue rather than a more serious bike issue, possibly caused by the switch change over. A lot of wires when in plastic cases/shrouds when moved around and manipulated when they're old will just snap, unseen. You may need to start continuity testing wires once you know where the fault lies.

Edited by jonboy883
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20 minutes ago, jonboy883 said:

Before you do anything else, remove any switches totally , and ensure you still have a spark. This will confirm its a switch issue rather than a more serious bike issue, possibly caused by the switch change over. A lot of wires when in plastic cases/shrouds when moved around and manipulated when they're old will just snap, unseen. You may need to start continuity testing wires once you know where the fault lies.

Thanks, I'll have a look. I checked all the continuity from the stator and it appears within tolerance if not bang on the figures. Need to find figure for each of the other components. 

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I actually did find a wire from earth/ground no connected to anything but it was yellow & green like house electrics use and thought it was maybe something fitted by someone previous. 

There are also 2 black wires that come from the front of the radiator, one with a ring terminal and one taped end. Guessing they are not used or may have been in the past.

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It would appear, after disconnecting the kill switch  i got a spark. Swapping the kill switch connections around made no difference.  I then tested the switch.  Magnet off readings from 0.05 to over 1.

With magnet on readings from 0.9 to over 20. Click it on and off a few times and the readings are sporadic to say the least. Tried my old switch back on and it works again. 

New switch coming from supplier who is great to deal with.

 

Thanks all for your assistance and hopefully it will be all good from now on 👍

Edited by Glearacer
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On the lanyard type magnet kill switch. 

Magnet on; the switch is open. (No circuit)

Magnet off; the switch is closed. (connected circuit) 

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Take the switch off, keep the wire handy, start bike, touch wire to earth, does it work like the kill switch should. If so, no wiring issues.

Once confirmed, fit a decent new switch and it should be good to go.

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The oddest kill button related issue I have seen was on a buddies 2016 Beta.  A shop had connected a lanyard type switch and it worked OK for a while but then quit.  When kicking, it would try to fire a couple of times and then stop.  In the process of diagnosing, I was kicking it over with the button disconnected and noticed arcing inside the connector on the bike side.  (how lucky was that)   It looked fine from the outside but somehow, the shop had damaged the connector internally to create an intermittent short.  I replaced the connector with soldered wires and all was good.  If I had not noticed the arcing, I can't imagine how I would have found that issue.               

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Ok. Here’s what I did. 
 

fitted lanyard switch. No problem. Wouldn’t start. 
 

looked for a while and what I had inadvertently done was, upon tightening the cdi to ground wire. (Black/white) pulled a pin out the cdi socket. 
 

took a while to diagnose and well worth a look in case it happened to you. 
 

to fix, I pulled out pin. Gently crimped then inserted using a fair sized paper clip wire. 
 

good luck 

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