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My Suzuki DS 185


Ftwelder
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8 hours ago, htrdoug said:

Just put everything together all oiled up and leave the cylinder head off, spin it with a electric drill . You can even set the timing dynamically that way. I just had to diagnose a Sherco 250 that was violently kicking back, broke the kicker even. I pulled the plug, highlighted the TDC mark they have and spun it with a strong electric drill. Saw it was firing 4 times a revolution, only way it could do that would be triggering off of the charging coils feeding back through the ground circuit into the trigger pickup circuit. yep, bad ground. Would have been sucky trial and error component replacement if I hadn't of spun it up, instead of recognizing exactly what the real symptoms were.

That would certainly be easier. Ill find something else to do while I wait for con rod to arrive!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The rod came in so I rebuilt the crank.  I used centers to hold the ends (ends in good shape) and put my indicator on the bearing surfaces and got it a little better that stock. I set the rod end play at .22mm and the the width across the wheels was spot on.

51759895546_be8897b4dd_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

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I assembled the center cases and per suggestion installed the ignition with new a new spark plug a new coil and the only way I could spin the crank was the put the complete engine in a lathe with the ignition coil bolted to the case where the shift drum cover bolts on. I didn't get a spark at first and using a volt meter tested first the magneto (worked) then the CDI (also worked). I didn't want to stick the volt meter in the plug socket so I removed the new plug and put in an old dirty one and it worked! I  have spark!!  (photo taken during disassembly)

51326258416_7417820a10_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

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Last shot before heading home for Christmas dinner. Merry Christmas!

51775708534_e5aa3a0412_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Edited by Ftwelder
to reduce confusion. may be.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I bolted a few more pieces on the engine including intake and exhaust fittings. I have purchased a few shift levers and kickers so far and the only decent ones are OE. most of the ebay ones have been so poor they aren't functional. The stock one is well made but heavy.

51783823712_f3c93f1d5a_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

51783823642_7340805774_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I made a gasket to fit my exhaust spigot with a special material to withstand the heat. It's a bit soft so I used hot glue to bond it to plywood then used a hole-saw to cut the hole and bandsaw to finish.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

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My new spokes arrived from Buchanon. I asked for the spokes to allow the rim to be dished 6mm toward the brake. I had laced a couple wheels in the past and this one wasn't bad, just not my idea of fun. Truing is petty cool though. I started with the drum side down and the small side spokes tied into bundles to keep them out of the way. I resorted to bending some of the spokes to get them into place. It trued up nice and straight after a couple hours invested.

51789641498_d355fe7b35_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

My frame came back from paint and it looks great. It's a two-coat powder job with a chrome base with a second coat of candy teal with a metallic sparkle. This guy paints a lot of parts for me and is a motorcycle restoration enthusiast so he knows what is important.

51803428132_dd14e3e5c7_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

51804743829_601e0fe8e5_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

 

 

 

Edited by Ftwelder
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I had a little time toward the end of the day. I made a piece that held the frame by the foot peg mounts and fit in the vice jaws and started adding parts to the frame.

I pressed the bearing races in and installed the WC machine TLR/Reflex fork clamp. They just started doing an alloy "threaded steering head" (the steel part hard to find) so I opted for one of those also. Works of art.

51805423087_600e69fac7_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

51806498033_5b52aea0b4_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I cleaned the paint off the components that get grounded and connected everything. I should give it a good whack and see if it still sparks. Next thing on the list is to make the assorted swing arm spacers from aluminum and get the back of the bike on.

51806498108_08371b2621_h.jpgUntitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Thanks for following along.

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1 hour ago, htrdoug said:

I’m thinking this vintage build is really going to put the pressure on him to ride it very well!

Frank, You’ll be expected to provide us with a riding video once you are done😉

 

   I think you are right but it's going to take time and possibly taking the bike apart a few times before it works right.  Ill get stevec to shoot a clip since he has the volunteer spirit.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
 
 

You need a totally stock TS to display next to it😉

Looks fantastic! I keep looking at junker TS185 zooks on marketplace,but doing house remodel and garage build coming up so no time for fabricating fun😒for awhile,2 years until retirement though

You might find with a bit of research you could use the green SKF fork seals instead of the Betor wipers,expensive,but they work great and the color would compliment your frame 😀

Edited by htrdoug
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12 hours ago, htrdoug said:

You need a totally stock TS to display next to it😉

Looks fantastic! I keep looking at junker TS185 zooks on marketplace,but doing house remodel and garage build coming up so no time for fabricating fun😒for awhile,2 years until retirement though

You might find with a bit of research you could use the green SKF fork seals instead of the Betor wipers,expensive,but they work great and the color would compliment your frame 😀

Interesting you mention the stock bike. At our last event of the season a young couple showed up to follow the loop and watch. She had an old TS and he had a Matador. 10 degrees of head angle makes a huge difference!

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  • 1 month later...

We had our first ride of the year after a rare burst of reasonable weather generally called "the January thaw"  (before five more weeks of snow) and got motivated to get back to work.

The I found a longer brake arm for the front and had to alter the cable fixing point. The original one came right off and I made a new one and located it so the stock brake cable still worked. Here you can see the angle is way off.

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Here is a beefier piece (for welding) tacked on to test

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It's welded on and still work. (this is good)

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i machined a new anchor arm and almost have it done. More tomorrow,

 

 

 

 

Edited by Ftwelder
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Couldn’t help but notice you have Magura power pull levers,they have about the most amount of cable pull/least leverage of any lever. I like to use Honda CR replacement levers,they have the most leverage/least cable pull / best lever bend that I have found. Domino levers have good leverage too. I might be concerned your clutch will be a bear to use with the Magura. 

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