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Beta 250 - is it 2008?


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Having just been set right on a bike I proposed to buy which was identified by a forum member as being mid-advertised as a 2012 when it was a 2005, can I seek your advice in confirming/not the bike below, which is described as a Beta 250 from 2008, please?

I appreciate it isn’t a 4T (presumably the plastics or decals are from another bike)

I plan to go to see it Friday, but if it’s a wrong’un, I don’t fancy the two-hour drive…

thanks in advance





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One way to help know what year a Rev 3 is, is to count the spokes. The wheels changed from 36 spoke to 32 spoke in about 2005.

If it was me buying it, I wouldn't care what year model Rev 3 it is. They are all good to ride. Condition would be the important thing.

From the photos it is impossible to know if it is a 200, 250 or 270. The 125 had a different exhaust to the one in the photos.

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I had a 2007 that looked very similar but my wheels were plain alloy - I think those black/silver rims came in 2008 and stayed for a few years including the Evo. Of course, they may not be the original rims. Good bikes regardless, if they are well looked after.

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After a trip into the roundabouts around Teesside, I’ve brought home what turns out to be an ‘08 Rev3 270 (not the 250 as advertised-will do some research on this later tonight)

the rear damper bottom bush is shot. Presumably I replace both the bush and the spherical bearing? Easy-Peasy?

as gasgasman280 told me, the front brake lever assembly is wrong. Replacement will cost £180+ ☹️
and the rear mudguard is split, has been plated, but that’s come loose. I gather it’s a 4T version, and as the correct one is over £150, and I’m bound to damage it, I’m proposing to re-rivet the crack and struggle on.

one rear plastics bolt has sheared off in situ. I hope I can drill and extract that.

Just to keep me busy.

comment/advice welcome.





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Started refurbishing today. 
Silencer packing is badly contaminated, so new media on order.

had a b*** of a job detaching the rear mudguard, as one screw was mangled, and the retaining captive nut was just spinning in the air box. I’ve got it out, retapped the nut, and araldited it back. Hopefully it holds up.

broke a hex key in the impact driver trying to get the bottom bolt out of the rear damper, as the bearing is shot. I resorted to a long bar, and succeeded. Removed the bushes, seals and found the retaining clips *before* resorting to brute force to remove the bearing.

Question: to replace the (new) bearing, I’d normally put the bearing in the fridge, warm the bottom of the damper, and hope the cold bearing would slide it with aid of some effort and grease. Is this the way to do it?

advice, as always, welcome.

Edited by ibgarrow
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Just went through a lot of this same stuff on my new bike. It amazes me how people can let their machines go. I have successfully used both a vice and a hydraulic press to install bearings. With a proper sized socket doing the pushing of course. 

Edited by PAULIE
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