I am have issue with my brakes  they grab suddenly making wheels lock  I want them to be smooth 

Is there pads that have a soft stop      I put water on them before  sections so they are soft stopping   There AJP Braktec  on a TRS

Edited October 3, 20241 yr by Assgas

I like the Galfer red ones, what pads are you running now?   If my brakes act up I often find it is the wheel bearings that are the source of problems, make sure it's not just that 👍

How you have your levers setup can make a huge difference.   

... and how many fingers are you using now, should be 1 or you will always grab way too much front brake.

... and is that the brake pad model with no mounting hole in it?  

 

Edited October 3, 20241 yr by lemur

11 minutes ago, lemur said:

I like the Galfer red ones, what pads are you running now?   If my brakes act up I often find it is the wheel bearings that are the source of problems, make sure it's not just that 👍

How you have your levers setup can make a huge difference.   

... and how many fingers are you using now, should be 1 or you will always grab way too much front brake.

... and is that the brake pad model with no mounting hole in it?  

 

Stock pads  wheel bearings are good   I use one finger in the crotch on the lever . 

18 minutes ago, Assgas said:

Stock pads  wheel bearings are good   I use one finger in the crotch on the lever . 

I read things like this on here quite often , the gear change lever is too far from my foot there is no comfortable seat available etc etc Competition Trials bikes are SPECIFICALLY designed to ride in trials competitions   and are SPECFICALLY  designed to have brakes that grab so that you can trick ride easily. If you want a play bike or trail bike then a modern competition trials  bike is not the right bike to own. If you want brakes that do not work properly then you may find   some aftermarket brake pads made in china that have garbage pad material or you could just buy a twin shock trials bike with drum brakes . Sintered brake pad material can take a while to bed in before it grabs you could try that.

1 hour ago, Assgas said:

Stock pads  wheel bearings are good   I use one finger in the crotch on the lever . 

I find short levers moved far in on the bars and finger right at the end near the ball gives better leverage and greater friction range, might work for you too 👍 shorty levers go on all my bikes right from new.

When I first moved to a Beta, a 2008 model, I found the brakes to be too grabby for me.  Someone suggested cutting an X in the pads with a hacksaw to reduce the brake force.  I did and it worked for me... at least on that bike.  Later, I liked the more powerful brakes.

I had a 08 GasGas I hated that bike Brakes and clutch were like a light switch  on off 

My wife has a Vertigo the  clutch and brake are smooth  

On my grandsons beta sr 80 the front brakes were too grabby and he had short legs, so was crashing to much. I used brake pads that had been ruined by a fork seal leak. That solved his problems. And the pads seemed to get better as time went on.

@Assgas mcman56 probably has your answer , just cut 50% of your pad material off each pad with  a cutting wheel or hacksaw to lower the amount of surface area causing  friction while braking or buy a VERTIGO if the brakes are smooth , they use exactly the same brakes on most trials bikes ie BRAKTEC with the exception of BETA that use GRIMECA and so it must be down to set up or Pad material or the type of metal  the actual disc is made of ,  I would not think that to be the case but obviously I could be wrong. 

Edited October 5, 20241 yr by Tr1AL

Could try a larger bore master cylinder - maybe off a road/trail bike model. That will make you squeeze the lever a bit harder to lock the brake...........

54 minutes ago, lsv said:

Could try a larger bore master cylinder - maybe off a road/trail bike model. That will make you squeeze the lever a bit harder to lock the brake...........

I grooved the pads  I will see how they do this weekend