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Rev 3 Flooded


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After about 3 hours of riding in the hot weather yesterday I stalled my bike. I couldnt get it going again as it had flooded. I had just been up some quite steep climbs. Also I noticed the rad fan had kicked in. has anyone had this problem or has anyone got any ideas ?

cheers leggins

p.s I got the bike going after removing the plug and giving it some wellie.....

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read the vhst page in the beta section.

join the happy gang of p****d off riders who own betas that keep flooding, mines brand new, i bet you were facing down hill when you were trying to start it, all you can do is bounce the bike round to face up hill open the throttle and give it 3 or 4 kicks it will go , i have been doing it nearly every section for the last few weeks, great ,when you are at the front of the que and everyones waiting to go.

beta should have sorted this problem out years ago.

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As with all the other Beta carb threads I can only suggest doing the carb mods found on the R2w page click my sig and have a look around.

Although what I have seen of recent threads is there seems too be a few `06s that this doesn`t appear too cure the problems with?

Good luck and I hope you get it sorted as I am a true beleiver in the Rev3 being an excellent bike IF and WHEN you can iron out these little niggles (luckily I have!)

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I do not think the bike was ORIGINALLY flooded but rather the jetting is way to lean for the hot enviornment that day.

When a Beta heats up after a lot of hard riding or very hot weather the bike can go in to a lean condition and vapour lock.

When the frame is to hot too touch and will not start after a hot day I can assure you that flooding was not the ORIGINAL problem.

You the created the flooding scenaro by not fully understanding what the symptom was.

The early Montesa's (1994's) with the big aluminium frame had the same problem in the really hot climates.

You did not put the choke on before the symptom arose, you may have turned the throttle to much when it did not start, but that was not the original reason why it would not start to begin with. You exasparated the problem by continualy kicking it over, hence why the flooding and drying out of the plug helped you.

When it is warm outside the bike can run rich. Needs less fuel and more air

The opposite is true when it is cold it needs more fuel and less air, hence using a choke.

BUT when it is REALLY HOT the air expands and the gas gets warm (aluminium frame good conductor of heat Beta, Montesa) forcing the bike to go lean.

The solution I have found after riding in 100F temparatures is to go a tad rich on the pilot jet etc. All sorts of things go funky when it is really hot. It is the pilot jet that really helps during the starting procedure (in combination with the idle circut).

General foke lore states that you need to be rich on the jetting in winter and lean in the summer. True in general terms.

BUT that folk lore does not take into consideration that trials bikes sit stationary or hardly moving. You yourself stated that the fan was coming on. You may be in the woods or an area where air flow is non existent.

Keep in mind that the temparature of the bike will climb when it is turned off, and will do so for many minutes raising the temps thru the roof. There is VERY good reason that trials bikes have fans on them on and motocrossers do not AIR MOVEMENT THRU THE RAD.

The old turbo units on cars used to fry due to drivers switching off the car after a spirited run and the turbo unit would cook. The temps of the turbo after turning off went nuts as there was no flow of air across them.

Ever walked away from car after turning it off and the cars fans is just kicking in? Mmmm.

You come back to the bike (short period of time) it will not start, one kicks and kicks putting more and more gas into the system than needed, you pull the plug out and it is full of gas/petrol DUH I wonder why? :beer:

You let the bike sit for while (the bike is actualy coolling off after initialy climbing in temperature) and drying out the plug. I would bet that when initialy it did not start and you did not kick it, and let it sit for a period of time to cool off it would have fired back up again no sweat.

The length of time needed to to cool down would depend upon ambient temps, humidty, altitude, air movement around the bike etc. In really hot closed in enviornment that could be a VERY long time.

What is really needed is for a fan to have a handle bar mounted switch to turn the fan on and off.

Of course the factory thermostat would still kick in around 185F as they do.

One would turn it on as you leave the bike stationary to walk a section keeping some air moving across the rad. Or even when your are idleling through a 1st gear section very slowly.

I mounted such a switch on my Beta along with a battery pack to power the fan when the engine was not on when I lived in Texas along with riching up the pilot jet and BINGO no more heat problems.

This is the voice and expierence with hot Beta's and good carb knowldge in hot (100F) enviornments.


BillyT <_<

Edited by BillyT
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Wow Billy that was some reply thanks. Your reply really made sense, The idea of installing a battery pack on board sounds great. The only problem with this is that when you live in England it would be rarely used as usually our climate is pants, Thats the reason we all look pastey and pale ha ha. Joking aside I think You have hit the nail on the head, nice one

leggins <_<

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My bum is not as pasty as your bum. Remember that night in section 5 when we compared a Scottish bum to a Canadian bum :beer:


To add the battery pack one needs to wire the switch in parrallel with the temp sensor and add a diode to stop the voltage from going back into the bikes electrical system.

The switch can be activated when going slow and the bike will power the fan, when stopped the switch plus battery pack will turn the fan. Works like a charm! I have installed the same set up on other brands of bikes.


BillyT <_<

Edited by BillyT
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There's no way that I have ever seen a "Scottish Bum" as everyone knows that a Scotsman only lifts his kilt for one reason and one reason only, and I don't ever remember seeing you wear a pair of velcro mits while herding your sheep! <_<

As well, I'm now deeply disturbed that you've been fantasizing about me bumm! :beer:

Cheers you pasty *******!

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What Billy says does make sense but why do you need a battery for the fan? It gets very hot here in OZ and we just leave the motor idling when inspecting sections so the fan runs when needed. Sometimes the motor runs for hours without stopping or problems during summertime (well over 100F) events.

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Feetup fun

That is all the more reason to have a switch for the fan.

Because the bike is sitting idling does not mean that the fan is on!!!! In fact if it is sitting there idling and no movement or air passing thru the bike and no fan turning the bike will be getting hot!

You may be fortunate that you can let the bike sit and idle whilst you walk a section, the terrain and space may allow you to do that. BUT what about areas that are very steep or mountains and lots of wooded area.

They can not let the bike sit upright as the paths are too narrow. There may be cases were there are a large party of riders and you have to pull your bike off to the side to let others thru as you are still walking the section and watching others ride it as you are trying to watch their line.

Some bike do not have their kickstand attached and have to lean the bike up against a tree for support.

Some loops are realy long and you need to turn of the bike to save fuel in between sections.

Some of us older riders have their idle turned down so low that the bike does not idle too well by it self.

All of the above forces you to turn the bike off and park it.

If you do, you need a switch and a battery pack.

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Gee Billy ,

maybe we should all build our bikes with steel frames and drum brakes and oh yeah two shocks ..cause two must be better than one.. and lets get Trials bikes to weigh what they should 220 lbs again yeah thats it <_<:beer::wub:

duh .. I guess


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Dear Ron

How does a small (very small) battery pack that is removable add much weight.

The fan does not draw that much current and so it can be powered by a Duracell battery.

PS Do you remember Globe Arizona when you poured a jug of cold water on an extremly warm Beta cylinder head and then wonder why the head cracked??? Talk about Duh :beer:

Perhaps we should install a water cooler on our bikes so (oh and lets add ice to the water) so that when they heat up we can dump the lot on the bike. Who care if it cracks stuff due to the thermal shock.

And why do you continuly shout at people on your web site (all capitials) <_<

We can keep this up all day/night if you would like?

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True statement!

BUT, I am talking about keeping some air flow across the head here, not lowering the temps dramatically!

The air is being sucked or blown across the rad (dependant upon bike type) if the bikes is HOT due to it being a VERY warm day then the ambient air from the fan blowing/travelling across the cylinder is also going to be very warm. If the bike is stopped then the water pump is not turning, so the coolant will still be hot, due to a lack of circulation, the only real cooling affect would be on the air across the head!

At best, ambient air with not much of a delta T (pre fan air Vs after fan air).

Hardly enough to drop the temparatures to loose power.


BillyT <_<

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Goood show Steve!

Ron, you have to be gentle with Billy you know! He is very sensitive and LIKES to show his bum!

Actually the MVP of the fuel has a lot to do with it. Fuel is blended to minimize vapor locking tendensies in hot weather! Most of us do not have this advantage with the fuels we use, thus you need a Billy Fan!

You Beta peeps are not the only ones! It happens all the time here, that is when I revert to regular auto fuel which is the most resistant here in TX. I would rather have a little ping than be kicking my ass off in 100f weather!

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