faussy

Just seen this on youtube

Just a hunch, but I think the angled cut was to allow the brake hose easier access into the swingarm, which is the route it takes on your bike, when the wheel is fully forward in the swingarm. Later bikes and other manufacturers have the hose mounted outside the swingarm. Worst case scenario you can cut/hack/file this clearance into the new caliber

Were the points open when you measured this continuity to ground? Open the points, and then also try removing the condenser, it can short to ground if faulty. You can get a new condenser at most autopart stores or online for a few quid

Minus the clicking, that sounds normal to me

Ive been here a while, and also frequent a lot of other forums and I think it's fair to say people here are a lot more patient and helpful than on other forums. If someone has been talked down on its most likely because they've ignored some previous advice and are adamant they are right. Not saying it doesn't exist, and while the sites only real moderator doesn't seem to frequent the site very much if at all these days, IMO it is rare and certainly not something "a lot" of us are guilty of. Care to share specifically where you've seen this talking down?

All types of SS are predominantly iron. You argue it's not stainless because it's magnetic? I would expect a ss spring to be magnetic, because the very act of cold drawing and then tempering makes stainless magnetic...

Yeah I did some quick calcs and they are very close, equivalent to about 1/2 tooth at the rear. The fact you already know you like the 51 and you aren't shooting in the dark, getting one made is probably the way to go. I take it you've tried contacting talon directly?

I don't have an EM so not sure what the standard front sprocket is but if you run a 10/51, it's virtually identical to 11/55, and I see above 55 is available. 11/51 is also very similar to 12/55. Not ideal, you would probably have to buy another chain aswell as the front sprocket, but an option albeit an expensive one

Only when you get to expert will you think the 250 isnt enough for you, so unless youre going to be making expert in the next couple of years id steer you towards the 250. Although if the right 300 came along at a good price, go for it, just be prepared to spend a few 100 on bits slowing it down. I actually think a detuned 300 is nicer than the 250, more torquey low down, they are just a bit of a handful up top if you get too aggressive with the throttle

Not an ossa expert but from a practical point of view I always find it easier to keep gloss black barrels clean than matt ones. The latter kind of get stained with mud

I would worry about any 2 stroke trials bike long term doing any sort of enduro. I dont particularly like 4rts, but you will at least know the gearbox and engine will stand the abuse

Had this happen to one of my ggs years ago. Once fixed you need to tie the clutch line to one of the down tubes where the exhaust comes out with a zip tie. As for rebleeding, what you have described is correct. There should be a bleed nipple on the banjo where it enters the clutch casing. Just bleed like you would a brake cylinder

In the UK? Try Allens used trial spares on FB

Its a wheel bearing on a trials bike, what do you need high tolerance for? The water and dirt gets into the expensive one every bit as easy as the cheap one, and once it does they're done

Personally ive found wheel bearings to wear out no matter what brand or cost they were. Once water and dirt get in they are toast so I wouldn't put yourself out too much sourcing quality wheel bearings. Its the only bearing on a bike I don't care where they came from