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dan williams

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About dan williams

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/05/1958

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Previous Fields

  • Bike
    '13 EVO
  • Club
    NETA, Seacoast Trials Club, East Coast Hoppers

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Reading Mass USA
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. My '08 was a great bike from new once the clutch was sorted. Have since moved on to EVO which is better. That bike looks like it hasn't been abused and the fact that the cases were swapped out rather than bodged with JB Weld for the corrosion says a lot about previous owner. Probably a Senior rider. Always the best used bikes to get. If the forks look good and it runs proper probably worth the money.
  2. Spoken like a true engineer. 😀
  3. Well at 6'2" he may just qualify as really tall. Taller bars might help but my main point is the OP is probably sore because it's a relatively new activity and it isn't at all uncommon for trials riders who are new or coming back from time off the bike to just want to lay down on some nice hard rock for a few minutes during the event to stretch the spine. I also want to make sure his bars are in the correct position before I recommend a change that can't be properly evaluated without making sure the basics have been covered first. If you want to see a real tall rider look up world round pics of Bernard Cordonnier. At 6'6" he always looked like he was riding a mosquito. Ah Bernard, Martin, Diego. Now I've made myself sad.
  4. Two rules changes we're trying to get out to all in New England just so there are no nasty surprises when you show up. Tether type motor killing devices are now mandatory and yes you have to wear them. Yes vintage guys too. To encourage early sign up the full year membership price goes up after April 15th from $30 to $50. All details are on the web page www.newenglandtrials.com Membership forms are on-line and you can even pay on-line.
  5. Yup perfectly normal. Beginning of season after winter layoff kills me even with going to the gym. You have to get used to a whole new riding position and as a newby you are probably much tighter in the core trying to hold the bike going where you want it to go. After a while you'll get used to the position and learn to relax and let your legs do the work of steering the bike. Unless you are really tall riser bars will just mess with your riding position and get you into bad habits. Make sure your bars are forward enough. A lot of guys start out with their bars too far back. This takes away a lot of the normal leverage you gain from opening up the rider space. The bars should be perpendicular to the ground or slightly forward. Remember to keep your knees bent and out from the bike and steer with pressure from your legs. When your back hurts take a break. Your body is telling you it's under stress and trying to do anything while a muscle is in spasm increases the risk of injury and will get you into bad habits that will pop out at the most inopportune time. Don't worry, you'll get used to it. After a while you'll get back on a "normal" bike and wonder how anybody can ride the things.
  6. I have one on my 300 Beta and it helps. Low RPM power is still all you could ask for and the hit on top is still plenty. Only odd thing is wide open top of the rev range it starts misfiring. Not sure why but it might be the lower compression head is slowing the flame front so not fully burning the mixture. Haven't really figured it out yet and since it's only an issue chasing fast friends down fire roads it isn't a bother. I do recommend the VForce carbon reeds. I know the same cage fits the Sherco and Beta. It smooths out the power and lets the bike pull a gear higher. Makes it almost impossible to stall.
  7. Very funny Billy.
  8. Just need to get in shape. Round is a shape! I'm in the same area as heffergm and I could ride for another 30 years and never get out of the novice line.
  9. Same here. Slippery from the frozen ground but enough bare ground to ride. Last few days with a couple of good snows and it'll be several weeks now before I can get into the woods. C'est La Vie.
  10. Those look very much like the original clutch pack from my '13 which I gave away in favor of using 6 of the older plates that I had already cleaned up. They are cleaner than the older bikes at least as far as glue application.
  11. or the buttery smooth clutch of the Fantic 305.
  12. If you like the Beta good. Come join us. Feel the power of the dark side. Insert evil Palpatine laugh here.
  13. I keep my VP C-12 in its original 5gal can until I need to mix up a batch. Then it's into a steel jerry can as temp storage and for filling the aluminum fuel bottles I use for transport/filling. If you keep it in an airtight, UV blocking container it should last forever. Gas degrades for three reasons; Oxygen, fuel burns by oxidizing. Temperature, pressure and heat accelerate this process but it still happens at atmospheric pressure and room temperature just much slower and some of the additives in modern pump gas are more prone to this degradation than say tetraethyl lead. Moisture, alcohol used in pump gas absorbs water from the atmosphere. Once this is in solution with the fuel it's possible for other compoments to steal oxygen fron the absorbed water leaving free hydrogen. I suspect the waxy buildup you find in pumpgas that's sat too long in a poorly sealed container (or carb) is a relative of the hydrolyzed oil that makes margarine. UV, UV light is high energy photons. If the energy of a photon is above what's called the "work function" of an atom it is capable of knocking an electron right off the atom. This is the basis of chemical reactions as that atom is going to look around at its neighbors and try to steal an electron from the weakest one of them. And that atom will steal from one of its weaker neighbors and so on. This tends to break down complex hydrocarbons, which are already none too stable to begin with, changing the behavior of the fuel. Fortunately very little of the sun's UV gets through the atmosphere and the residual is blocked by most plastics. So yeah keep it light tight and air tight with a minimum volume of trapped air in the container and any fuel should last a good long time. VP C-12 is as stable as it gets. The VP unleaded stuff is probably slightly less stable but still worlds better than pump gas. I apologize for the spewage but we got a foot of snow a few days ago and are expecting another foot tonight so I can't ride and my mind is running open loop.
  14. You can expect to burn yourself every time you fall on it. For some reason the titanium pipes are always hotter. In my experiance the difference is minimal. You get much more benefit from buying a set of jets and taking the time to properly tune the bike. In general the length of the header pipe determines the tuning. Long header pipes are better for low end power as they have resonances tuned for lower RPM. The shorter pipes are great for the high RPM expert leaps but difficult to control for the average plonker. The pipe material really has no effect on the engine behavior. The pipe could be made of cheese and would work the same as long as it held its shape. Unless you're pushing your bike to the limit the main effect is probably psychological (and financial). Not to mention the spirit-crushing post-crash realization you just dented your $400 titanium pipe. Been there, done that, only it was an Akropovik. if you want one and can afford it go for it. But it won't make as big a difference in useful performance as a set of carbon fiber reeds.
  15. As above. The master cylinder has a hole that allows fluid from the reservoir to replenish the system when the lever is fully let out. When you use the brake the fluid gets heated and expands. Normally not a problem as the pressure in the system is relieved every time the lever is returned to full rest and the hole is uncovered releasing the pressure into the reservoir. Some people will try to get the lever to stay closer to the bars by tightening the set screw that adjusts the lever position at rest too far. What happens is the piston in the master cylinder never returns all the way to the rest position so it never uncovers the hole to the reservoir. Pressure builds up in the brake system causing brake drag which makes more heat which builds more pressure which causes more drag.... Eventually the brake is stuck full on and the lever won't move. This can also happen if the hole to the brake reservoir gets blocked. There have been reports of cylinders with debris or misdrilled holes but I'd go for the simple solution first and check that when the lever is at rest the piston in the master cylinder is returning all the way against the circlip. Same thing happens on the clutch side though in that case it causes clutch slippage.