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dan williams

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About dan williams

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/05/1958

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  • Bike
    '13 EVO, '18 fugly
  • Club
    NETA, Seacoast Trials Club, East Coast Hoppers

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  • Location
    North Reading Mass USA
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. I think the “Factory” models have the braktec masters. The standard 2018 looks the same as my 2013. But yes it should fit.
  2. Caby’s gotta be furious.
  3. What could possibly go wrong?
  4. My ‘13 300 has done this since I got it new. Betas have always shifted notchy but this jumping out of second is something that was never an issue on the other Betas I’ve had and I’ve had quite a few. I learned to be very dilligent in making sure the shift into second felt like all the bits are moved into place but if I take a half hearted stab at the shifter going from neutral or first into second it often pops out and hilarity ensues. Well for my friends watching anyway. I also have a new ‘18 that I’m prepping for the season. I’ve had it out a few times to test and break it in and the shifting is like buttah! Just a tap and it snicks into gear. I’ve looked over the parts manuals for both years and none of the parts numbers are different so I assume Beta just beefed up some parts but I don’t know which without disassembling both bikes. The rumor I’ve heard is they thickened the shift forks. I don’t know for certain though. One avenue I was considering was a heavier spring on the cam that indexes the gearbox but Beta doesn’t use a standard plunger so that wasn’t going to be easy. I think you’re just going to have to work around it. The third to second shift does work though it’s a pain to have to use.
  5. In most cases most likely true but the bad batches I got may have been a dodgy station owner. Who knows? Since I've been using VP C-12 I haven't had a bike hiccup yet and it's been probably two decades now. Damn, I'm old!
  6. In NETA we have to work one event if there are 13 or less scheduled and two for 14 or more. Getting observers is always the hardest thing to do. As for queuing up at events, most of our loops are short maybe mile and a half through some pretty technical trail. Worse than the sections in some places. One thing that is noted in our rules and I think it needs to be highlighted is a rider can start at any section but all sections must be ridden in strict numerical sequence. So if you want to skip the line at 1,2,3... and don't mind the extra loop you can start where there is no line. This works extremely well as observers further in see riders earlier. The lines at the first few sections thin considerably and it's easier to finish since the extra loop takes ~15-20 minutes. Much better than waiting in line for 20 minutes at section 1, 15 minutes at section 2, 10 minutes at section 3.... One thing that is funny is people seem to think that making a long technical loop helps the problem. There have been many events where I'll leave one section, ride an exhaustive, long technical section of loop and end up at the next section within sight of the previous section. And that helps me finish earlier how? The long lines are still at the first few sections. Granted it can be fun to ride loop trail but if I wanted to trail ride I'd buy an enduro bike. The breadsticks might be delicious but nobody goes to an expensive restaurant for the breadsticks.
  7. As pointed out above the biggest problem is fuel with ethanol. If you're not in the US that's probably not a problem as you have no corn lobby to bribe politicians to require ethanol in your fuel. If you are using pump gas, before you put your bike away, turn off the fuel tap and start the bike. After a few minutes the revs will come up and that let's you know the fuel in the carb has started to run out. You can then shut the bike off and any fuel in the float bowl will just evaporate after a few hours. No need to clean out the carb. If you use non-ethanol gas like racing fuel just shut off the tap and put it away until the next ride. No problem. Ethanol, when left to sit, forms a waxy residue which is what gums up the works in a carb. It takes time for this to happen but even "premium" pump gas with ethanol will do this. The good news is that if you don't leave fuel in the float bowl of the carb no buildup will occur. The ethanol will evaporate out with the rest of the fuel. As for the fuel in the tank that is another story simply because it is a much larger volume. Aside from the waxy goo from hydrogenated ethanol (think margarine) ethanol has a higher affinity for water than it does for other hydrocarbons including oil. In practical terms the ethanol in the fuel will bond with atmospheric water and separate out of solution into an alcohol/water mixture which is heavier than gasoline. This can sit in the bottom of the tank so when the engine is started after a long time it will be fed ethanol/water with no oil in it. One reason why a sealed gas can is a happy gas can. So draining the tank is one option. The other is a fuel stabilizer which will "preserve" the fuel for a while longer. The third is of course to use racing fuel but that gets expensive (But it's so worth it, I've had bad experiences with pump gas. Trials translation, I've crashed my ass off from crappy fuel.) It is ironic that the "common wisdom" of pre-ethanol fuel was put it away with a full tank. Now ??? Now having said all that I typically do a disassemble and clean on my carb twice a season for the Keihin as it has many tiny holes that can get blocked by dirt or even water and to keep the bike running properly at low throttle settings those passages must be clear. But just as a general rule of thumb ride it. If it's running good it's fine and you don't need to clean the carb out every time you take it out of storage.
  8. I think no one can really answer that for you. The Montesa is heavier and has a more rigorous maintainence regime. There is an incredible range of tuning with a four stroke so the power characteristics are difficult to determine without seeing the actual bike. The Beta is easier to maintain, engine wise, and is a bit more consistant bike to bike but perhaps a bit less steady on bumpy terrain than the Montesa. The Beta engine is very sweet and will not try to get away from you but you might find it lacking for trail riding. It really is something that comes down to your preference for power delivery. Both bikes are capable of expert level performance. If you can, ride both and see which one whispers, “Buy me.” In your ear.
  9. Maybe but my 2000 was a great bike as is my 2013. Both introduced major changes. I think the only real problem new Beta’s were the ‘09 frame cracking and Beta replaced all those frames.
  10. I have a 2018 and a 2013. To be honest there isn’t much difference that I can see yet.
  11. Could be air in the top of the master cylinder. There should be a bleeder there since it’s the highest point in the system. I find after any rear brake service I have to pump the brakes up, hold pressure on the pedal and crack the banjo bolt on top of the master cylinder then close. A couple cycles of that usually helps immensely. I know it’s not accepted practice. Yes Beta should fix it. Blah blah blah. It seems to work purging that last bubble of air in the system.
  12. Awesome, that ground to the triple clamp was a good example of somebody at the factory having no clue whatsoever about electricity.
  13. Please let us know what you find.
  14. Well your schematic matches mine so I'd say go after ground connections and make sure connectors are actually connecting. The automotive connectors sometimes let the pin slip out the back when you push them together after having them apart so they look connected but the aren't. Always the basics first.
  15. I don't know if this is of any use but this is what I had a problem with on my '08. I should probably put my name on these things since they pop up all over the web. Beta_wiring.pdf