dan williams

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About dan williams

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  • Birthday 08/05/1958

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  • Bike
    '13 EVO
  • Club
    NETA, Seacoast Trials Club, East Coast Hoppers

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  • Location
    North Reading Mass USA
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    Male

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  1. In my case has a lot to do with pulling my fat ass out of trouble... mud, hills, bushes etc. A 300 need not be tuned for max power. There's no denying that low end torque is mighty useful and I find ifine control easier with the larger displacement detuned then a smaller engine. But Ron Commo Sr. always said a clubman didn't need anything bigger than a 125.
  2. Check ignition timing. Check carb jetting. Look for case leaks around the crank and specifically under the reed housing. Check the condition of the reed. Use good quality fuel. Look for splits in the air boot between the carb and intake manifold. Remember a cold engine is a lean engine so air leaks are a possibility. Does it get better with the choke just slightly open? Does it change with mixture screw position? Gotta do the homework.
  3. I have been fortunate enough to have ridden several friends' works bikes over the years (no I'm not worthy) and no they won't magically turn you into Toni Bou or any other rider far above what you can do on a regular old production bike. This is aptly demonstrated every time an expert hops on a duffer's bike and makes it do things that seem unnatural. The factory riders are so close in ability that any slight advantage is magnified by small differences in the machines but the one thing that was consistent on the factory bikes I sampled was impeccable setup. There wasn't a stutter anywhere in the power delivery, the brakes were powerful and predictable and the suspension was finely tuned. All things achievable with a standard bike if the time is put into it. A lot of the stuff you see on Toni's bike isn't for some super trick reason. It's there because he puts demands on his engine and frame that go far beyond what mere mortals can. Machining a billet case to make sure he doesn't break his engine in half mid-trial from repeated full throttle splatters is just smart engineering. He probably has things like stronger gears and shifter forks, thicker woodruff keys, reinforced frame welds, stronger connecting rod... All things that would make absolutely no difference to us wobblers and paddlers. But when you start into the custom components it adds up very quickly and a half Mil doesn't buy what it used to. As for making the duffer think he's Toni Bou I think we're all adults here. We all know putting down that piece of pie and practicing for an hour more would improve us more than having Toni's bike. Come to think of it how many of us actually take the time to tune our highly adjustable suspensions or have a jet kit to get that throttle response just the way we want it?
  4. Mikuni has three tubes out of the float bowl. One is the actual overflow. It's the tube that comes out the bottom of the float bowl. The two brass fittings that come out of the side of the Mikuni are air vents to the float bowl. Beta made the mistake of using too long plastic tubes on these vents. The tubing goes below the floatbowl so if any fuel gets splashed up into the tubing it acts like a siphon and will keep peeing fuel until it's stopped or the tank runs dry. The solution is simple and free. Nipper a small hole in both tubes about half way up the carb body. That way any fuel that gets splashed into the tube either runs down to the end of the tube or flows back into the float bowl but the siphon stops.
  5. Could have way too much preload also. New riders often crank up the preload thinking their trials suspension is "sacked out" The end result is a too bouncy suspension that is essentially a hardtail over small bumps and a pogo stick over large bumps. Another thing to consider is the balance front to rear. Too much preload on one end or the other tends to do odd things to the handling. Both suspensions should be extremely compliant and track small obstacles or you'll forever be dropping points on the little bumps setting up for hits.
  6. Check the color of the throttle tube. (the plastic part the grip is on) There are two types, a white tube for quick throttle and a black tube for slow throttle. If you have the white tube you should get hold of the slower black tube as it will take some of the whisky throttle out of your life. Also remember you are new. You will get used to the throttle response of a trials bike and eventually you will start to rely on it but it takes a bit of a learning curve to get used to it. As noted the gear lever is high and far from your foot to prevent inadvertent shifts from your foot and the rocks you'll be riding through. After a while you'll not even notice that shifting is a foot off the peg affair. Shifting is rarely done in sections and certainly not necessary in the sections a new rider will ride. Welcome to the sport. It can be a lifelong obsession once you get past the initial weirdness of it all.
  7. I'm late to the party but.... This looks to me like there was a "mild" heat/lube failure at some point. Stuck throttle type of event. I can't be sure from the pics but it looks like the aluminum from the piston isn't scratched so much as smeared. The electrofusion bore is so much harder than the piston that when this happens the aluminum is friction welded onto the cylinder wall. The cylinder itself is usually undamaged under the friction welded aluminum. This is sometimes removed with a chemical etchant that will dissolve the aluminum without affecting the nickel/chromium cylinder wall followed by a light hone. The best stuff for this kind of work is not something you want to play with at home and if you get it on the aluminum part of the cylinder bad things happen. The placement of the damage at the exhaust port bridge also points to a seizure. This isn't "normal" wear for a piston. I agree with Copemech though, send it to a pro but also make sure your mixture, timing and cooling system are working properly or you run the risk of repeating this.
  8. Hi Steve, I did ping Dale but got no answer. No biggie, I'm sure Dale is a busy guy and he probably had no info at that time anyway. Besides he's Dale, and everybody likes Dale.
  9. The Keihin on my 2013 had two vent hoses but when I pulled them off to clean the carb I noticed only one hole was drilled. The other was just a blank aluminum stud. Gave me a chuckle.
  10. I wouldn't do more than two loops on a tank of fuel. Mud tends to suck up fuel.
  11. Hi Jonny, when you pull in the lever does it have any resistance and return after you release it or does it just pull in and stay? Beta's have a notorious clutch stick when cold that can be fixed by cleaning up the fiber plates. The fix is pinned at the top of this forum.
  12. What a wonderful amazing thread this is. I absolutely love this stuff.
  13. I had one of those badged as a CanAm. I put a front end off a Beta TR33 on it for the disk.
  14. After looking through a bunch of manuals (see factory clutch thread) I confirmed the 4 strokes use six of the thicker 3mm plates. So you four stroke guys can probably use the Barnett clutch plates mentioned earlier.