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dan williams

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About dan williams

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/05/1958

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  • ICQ

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    '13 EVO
  • Club
    NETA, Seacoast Trials Club, East Coast Hoppers

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Reading Mass USA
  • Gender

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14,618 profile views
  1. Hopefully there'll be one at the RI national this weekend.
  2. The video of the bloke who bought the spray painted black EM made me want to buy one. This video with it's ridiculous techno music and flock of photographers shooting one guy going over a rock in a parking lot snaps my wallet shut faster than you can say "Bad promo."
  3. That's excellent. I've always wanted to see something like this with a bike set up with telemetry to show control positions.
  4. ...and on that bright note...
  5. Ok that ain't gonna work. Airbox gets in the way.
  6. The throw of the lever shouldn't be affected though the necessary braking force will increase. Make sure your lever adjust allows the master cylinder to uncover the reservoir port at rest so the system pressure can normalize. Typically this causes the brakes to overheat and grab but if the mud is cool it could have the opposite effect. It's also possible for mud to pack in the pads so they get pushed out screwing up the self adjust nature of the brakes. I've wondered if this was going to an issue with the new FIM "solid" rotors. During the event you can drag your brakes on the loop and get some back after a water crossing.
  7. I would buy it without hesitation. Any teething problems will have been worked out, setup would be proper and John Lampkin is the importer for Beta. It will be snapped up in short order.
  8. Thanks CASCAO. Learn something new every day.
  9. Manuals for air cooled bikes usually recommended 32:1 but that was in large part due to the variability in oil and fuel quality and a margin of safety built into the recommendation. If you have access to a good quality synthetic oil 50:1 will work fine. I ran Bel-Ray MC-1 for decades at 50:1 in everything from Maicos to Bultacos to Can-Ams (Armstrong) with never an oil related failure. Now having said that I assume you are riding the mighty Fantic like a trials bike and not flogging it like it was a short legged MX bike. I've seen that done and it causes "unusual" wear in a trials engine.
  10. I suspect your problem is a missing ground. The kill switch wire comes from the trigger circuit of the CDI and shorting it to ground stops the sparks. The fan drive circuit comes from the lighting coils through a rectifier (changes ac to dc) and I think a voltage regulator (zener diode that clamps voltage at a certain level) The two circuits should be completely separated. What can happen is the two share a common ground point. If this ground point is lifted because of a loose screw or paint/anodizing/corrosion on the frame then the two circuits become connected through the common ground point. So if you have a defective kill switch (not uncommon on a Beta actually sorta expected on a Beta) it could short out when the thermostat comes on and it will stay shorted until the thermostat switches off. It's also possible you have inadvertently connected the hot side of the kill switch into the hot side of the fan. This could blow your CDI up so it's important to fix this immediately. First thing you need to do is make sure the circuits are separate. Find the hot wire for the kill switch which is typically black/white and make sure it only goes to the kill switch. Take the return wire from the kill switch and attach it to a hard ground on its own. I run mine back through the harness to a mounting screw on the ignition coil. Next make sure the ground connection for the fan circuit is making a good ground contact. Scrape paint/anodizing to get down to bare aluminum if you have to. I'll usually add a drop of silver filled thermal paste used for CPU coolers just to prevent corrosion and silver is the most conductive metal (mini geek-out there). A high resistance ground on the fan circuit can mimic all kinds of issues including a weak fan or a bad thermostat. Once you do this I think your problems will be fixed. At least with your thermal kill switch.
  11. Hmmm, usually not a good sign when somebody replaces critical bolts with non-standard items and they aren't stainless or titanium.
  12. Ok I just looked at the Sherco manual. Definately not the stock bolts. Here's the problem, by not using stock bolts which may be stainless steel or at least a better grade of corrosion resistant steel you may have caused corrosion in your water jacket. Using tap water or non-premixed coolant will accelerate corrosion. Sorry to say this but you might want to pull the engine out of the frame for a proper tear down. Radiator flush is probably in order too. Good call Beta_Blocker
  13. Are those the stock head bolts?
  14. Yup thought of that too but I figured that has a lot to do with air in the system absorbing some of the travel of a fully pressurized/purged system. When all the air is purged the system should have sufficient displacement to move the pucks past the elastic flex of the seals so they return to a new rest position. Once I got the last bit of air (assumed) burped the pads set up properly. I'm just not keen on using the regular banjo bolt as a purge point but it is the highest point on the system. it's all good now. At least until I fall off again
  15. Only place I see that would work is on stop adjuster bolt on pedal. Switch would hit frame above pedal. Switch would have to be normally closed type opening when pedal Is up and switch hits frame.