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tsiklonaut

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About tsiklonaut

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    Advanced Member

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    tsiklonaut
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    tsiklonaut

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  • Bike
    Ossa TR280i

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  • Location
    Estonia
  • Gender
    Male

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2,113 profile views
  1. a smoky TR280i

    A good mate of mine made it, he's a technical wizard and even better trials rider. It's a finely machined and welded semi circle, that just fits the three alternator bolts inside (remove the alternator, stick the same bare bolts back inside, turn the semi circle around them and just pull the cover off, easy as that!), even made a spacer support that centers on the crank hole so it has a surface to rotate on. It's a top quality handwork, even the expensive pro grade tools have hard time to catch that kind of quality
  2. a smoky TR280i

    Could be, or could be the bearing is loose to strip a lip off the seal. The particular needle bearing gets its oiling from a separate channel (coming from two small holes you see below the big seal below the last pic) and it was well oiled as you could tell from the leak, lol. Those two o-rings both sides of the bearing are only to stop oil from getting into crank or magneto chamber, so the bearing gets it's oil anyway and you cannot block them with those o-rings, so the question is if it leaks into a place where it doesn't belong which was my case of leaking into crank chamber.
  3. a smoky TR280i

    Opened the LHS case and a gulp of confirmed gearbox oil came out whre it's not supposed to be. Also found some suspicious rubber strips, apparently peeled off from the seal so I think I've found the devil - a failed O-ring. Replaced with high quality high-pressure seal (made for hydraulic pumps). Lets see if it last longer. After a longer run to clear residual oil from the exhaust - not smoking anymore, and now runs so sweet!
  4. a smoky TR280i

    Cheers guys, some good tips on making a simple specialised plate removal tool. I'll seek into that once I'm there...
  5. a smoky TR280i

    I checked the LHS hasn't leaked into magneto chamber, but I remember there was an oiling channel for the LHS crank needle bearing when I did an overhaul last winter, so in theory it could leak from the oiling channel into crank chamber as explained by you w/o leaking into magneto chamber at the same time (leaks only to one side). I guess I have to pull the LHS crank plate off to observe? Can't remember how I did it last time, but I remember it was a PITA to get it off w/o special tools. Any good tips on removing the LHS crank plate? Can't tell from the oil consumption since it tends to vary on mine (thick transmission oil get's stuck on gears etc). Will see if I can remove the crank plate, let me know if anyone has a good trick how to pull it with normal tools!
  6. a smoky TR280i

    TPS was spot-on 600 mV, also no oil in magneto chamber. Wonder if it's the other side of the crank seal? If so then I'm fecked since it needs complete crank removal to get there...
  7. a smoky TR280i

    Cheers guys for the great info! Will check the TPS first, if OK then see if there's oil in the magneto side of the crank when I have time on the weekend. OSSA people the best!
  8. a smoky TR280i

    My 2013 TR280i has started to smoke recently, any idea what might be the cause? Doesn't run so well as well and it doesn't seem to be the fuel mixture issue, I've tried with a different fresh fuel/oil mixture and still the same. I figure it's maybe a gearbox oil leaking slowly into crankcase room, but where that leak might occur, a bad crakshaft seal in one side? Any ideas?
  9. Ossa TR280i ?? thoughts

    Sherco/Scorpa is still a "classic" design 2-smoker trials motor. They recently switched to GasGas-type clutch (before they had somewhat unique clutch, but GG clutch is known to be among the best in "trials-feel", Ossa used this type of clutch since the beginning). There's no revolutionary designs on trials market anymore after OSSA went bust, I think Vertigo comes the closest in terms of revolution, but is still fundamentally a very classic design. I think OSSA scared the other manufacturers off with the experiment-and-revolutionize example - it creates high R&D costs and can make you go bust. OSSA is a highly unique and revolutionary motor, not just the near perfect Centre-of-Gravity (CoG) layout, thermal efficiency and FI but it's also smooth & superlight (I weighted an older Sherco motor and it was a pig-heavy lump compared to OSSA). OSSA motor definitely had the most potential if they had continued developing it. A well mapped injection is far superior to a well tuned carb IMHO. Ditto the cassette type gearbox - it's a dream easy to work on compared to other engines where you have to split the complete engine every time and while ironically the OSSA motor is also lighter (people used to say cassette-types are heavier). The frame is also unique because to fit this engine - fuel tank is a part of the front frame (no radiator exposed to rocks from the front wheel, hence a very clever design). Exhaust fills the rear subframe support function, both front and rear frame supports giving a better CoG compared to a classic full-frame design. The moving parts - suspension, wheels, handlebar etc are all standard parts. Also piston, rings and main bearings (after 2014 model) are actually GG parts. Hence most moving and consumable parts are no problem to obtain.
  10. Ossa tr280 2013 piston. S3 or standard?

    I just recently put S3 standard (A) into B bore. I have the very high compression (2013) head and also mine tends to run hot often so it's a good choice to avoid seizure and give the engine more "relaxed" operation (less friction) when hot. Just check if you see honing marks on the bore (the around 45-degree oval lines) in the working space of piston, if you see those clearly in reflection and you see no excessively worn spots then you're fine without doing re-boring/re-coating, just put in a new piston with rings.
  11. 14 tr300i Factory Headlight removal?

    Headlight is just fixed with two clips. Just take easy on them and in warmer temperature, so the plastic doesn't snap easily. Headlight and it's wiring is a complete chinash*it (read cheap and fragile), I've broken the wires many times and they self-destruct in time anyway. In the end I just binned it and the dead headlight stays in place just as a design element, rear I just removed, LOL.
  12. Show Us Your Ossa

    My TR280i has well over 300 hours, so had my trusty '13 for some well deserved refreshment, made it more minimal and elegant looks, more OSSA style:
  13. Diaphragm Clutch Adjustment

    Yep, check the master cylinder as well and try to replace the piston (the seal lips wear vs the new ones will give you a good indication). If the pack thickness is correct then it just doesn't hydraulically push clutch enough to engage fully. Removing all air from the hydraulic system is vital of course.
  14. 2013 Ossa Explorer Clutch

    On a second thought quite sure it's the master cylinder plunger seal. I had the same symtoms once. Those AJP seals wear fast, I always buy multiple to keep as spares.
  15. 2013 Ossa Explorer Clutch

    Clutch pack is probably too thick? If so, grind the plates carefully (evenly) down to OSSA spec. It's the same design as GasGas Pro series, pack thickness needs to be right for the best feel and performance. I recently got Xiu-RDi kevlar clutch for my 280i, fantastic piece of kit. Much better feel over the stock clutch and costing just some 20 EUR more than stock. Xiu-RDi Pack thickness is spot on, no need to measure anything, just install it and you're good to go!
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