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tsiklonaut

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Everything posted by tsiklonaut

  1. Big thanks Konrad, It's a great research and info! Will save the doc for sure. Interesting about the idle vs starting ease. I've found when I set the idle around 1450-1500rpm I gets a bit easier start. Adjusting idle isn't so hard when you have the diagnostic plug to compensate & reset the TPS when you open up the butterfly a little for more rpms. Still, air bypass sounds like a great idea.
  2. 2-5 kicks on cold start, 3-4 average. Mostly 1 kick with warm engine, sometimes 2 when I don't give sharp enough kick in some tricky balancing place. I have the 2013 TR280i wich is the super-high compression engine (even more compression than the red OSSA racing head sold separately so mine is VERY hard to kick!) and I don't have any batterypack start assist anymore, found it helped just a little but created lots of fuss with wires and battery weight. I've found those factors to look for on easier start that makes the start assist battery pack not a requirement: -correct TPS voltage and a bit higher idle (and I've tuned 50-100rpm higher than OSSA manual recommends) -it's important to keep the stator side chamber very clean (so it generates a good voltage, good practice is to pull off the magneto time-to-time and clean the inners) -a flywheel weight I have helps on starting too -on cold 1st and often 2nd kick are to get the capacitor full (it steals all the voltage then, so don't waste your energy too much on first kicks hoping it makes it better but actually it doesn't help much, I give 60-70% of my kicking power just to get some voltage into capacitor first), then on 3nd or 4rd kick the capacitor fires the volts out and starts on nice sharp kick (when warm the capacitor is full anyways, so 1st kick start most of the time)
  3. I'm on holidays for 3 weeks so can't UL for you now. But for future helps, since there's no OSSA support anymore, I or anybody else who has it here should U/L the software somewhere for those who need it? The software is required to set the TPS which should be done at least once a season to keep your TR-i in perfectly tuned running condition IMHO
  4. I also use the flywheel weight - really like it. I've had the same problem before, very easy to fix when you have the diagnostics plug. You need to re-set the idle via adjusting the throttle body butterfly opening. Ideally clean TB before too (there's an air hole in the butterfly that can get clogged with oil in time and the idle drops), but not mandatory since you can adjust it with TB butterfly opening anyway. The problem is when you change the idle you need to set the TPS zero point to 0.6V again so the EFI has the correct zero point for the smooth mapping translation. Do you have the diagnostic plug and software?
  5. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    I just fitted as it was. Now thinking about it I think that way it's more correct: 1) there will be some pressure from the oil pouring in from the channels, fitting the spring side away from oil will cause a leak sooner or later (I've made this mistake on forks, they leak every time you do this!) 2) when installing the "other way round" you'll likely damage the seal on installing it (kicking it in from the spring side is a bad idea!)
  6. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    A good mate of mine made it, he's a technical wizard and even better trials rider. It's a finely machined and welded semi circle, that just fits the three alternator bolts inside (remove the alternator, stick the same bare bolts back inside, turn the semi circle around them and just pull the cover off, easy as that!), even made a spacer support that centers on the crank hole so it has a surface to rotate on. It's a top quality handwork, even the expensive pro grade tools have hard time to catch that kind of quality
  7. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    Could be, or could be the bearing is loose to strip a lip off the seal. The particular needle bearing gets its oiling from a separate channel (coming from two small holes you see below the big seal below the last pic) and it was well oiled as you could tell from the leak, lol. Those two o-rings both sides of the bearing are only to stop oil from getting into crank or magneto chamber, so the bearing gets it's oil anyway and you cannot block them with those o-rings, so the question is if it leaks into a place where it doesn't belong which was my case of leaking into crank chamber.
  8. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    Opened the LHS case and a gulp of confirmed gearbox oil came out whre it's not supposed to be. Also found some suspicious rubber strips, apparently peeled off from the seal so I think I've found the devil - a failed O-ring. Replaced with high quality high-pressure seal (made for hydraulic pumps). Lets see if it last longer. After a longer run to clear residual oil from the exhaust - not smoking anymore, and now runs so sweet!
  9. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    Cheers guys, some good tips on making a simple specialised plate removal tool. I'll seek into that once I'm there...
  10. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    I checked the LHS hasn't leaked into magneto chamber, but I remember there was an oiling channel for the LHS crank needle bearing when I did an overhaul last winter, so in theory it could leak from the oiling channel into crank chamber as explained by you w/o leaking into magneto chamber at the same time (leaks only to one side). I guess I have to pull the LHS crank plate off to observe? Can't remember how I did it last time, but I remember it was a PITA to get it off w/o special tools. Any good tips on removing the LHS crank plate? Can't tell from the oil consumption since it tends to vary on mine (thick transmission oil get's stuck on gears etc). Will see if I can remove the crank plate, let me know if anyone has a good trick how to pull it with normal tools!
  11. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    TPS was spot-on 600 mV, also no oil in magneto chamber. Wonder if it's the other side of the crank seal? If so then I'm fecked since it needs complete crank removal to get there...
  12. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    Cheers guys for the great info! Will check the TPS first, if OK then see if there's oil in the magneto side of the crank when I have time on the weekend. OSSA people the best!
  13. tsiklonaut

    a smoky TR280i

    My 2013 TR280i has started to smoke recently, any idea what might be the cause? Doesn't run so well as well and it doesn't seem to be the fuel mixture issue, I've tried with a different fresh fuel/oil mixture and still the same. I figure it's maybe a gearbox oil leaking slowly into crankcase room, but where that leak might occur, a bad crakshaft seal in one side? Any ideas?
  14. Sherco/Scorpa is still a "classic" design 2-smoker trials motor. They recently switched to GasGas-type clutch (before they had somewhat unique clutch, but GG clutch is known to be among the best in "trials-feel", Ossa used this type of clutch since the beginning). There's no revolutionary designs on trials market anymore after OSSA went bust, I think Vertigo comes the closest in terms of revolution, but is still fundamentally a very classic design. I think OSSA scared the other manufacturers off with the experiment-and-revolutionize example - it creates high R&D costs and can make you go bust. OSSA is a highly unique and revolutionary motor, not just the near perfect Centre-of-Gravity (CoG) layout, thermal efficiency and FI but it's also smooth & superlight (I weighted an older Sherco motor and it was a pig-heavy lump compared to OSSA). OSSA motor definitely had the most potential if they had continued developing it. A well mapped injection is far superior to a well tuned carb IMHO. Ditto the cassette type gearbox - it's a dream easy to work on compared to other engines where you have to split the complete engine every time and while ironically the OSSA motor is also lighter (people used to say cassette-types are heavier). The frame is also unique because to fit this engine - fuel tank is a part of the front frame (no radiator exposed to rocks from the front wheel, hence a very clever design). Exhaust fills the rear subframe support function, both front and rear frame supports giving a better CoG compared to a classic full-frame design. The moving parts - suspension, wheels, handlebar etc are all standard parts. Also piston, rings and main bearings (after 2014 model) are actually GG parts. Hence most moving and consumable parts are no problem to obtain.
  15. I just recently put S3 standard (A) into B bore. I have the very high compression (2013) head and also mine tends to run hot often so it's a good choice to avoid seizure and give the engine more "relaxed" operation (less friction) when hot. Just check if you see honing marks on the bore (the around 45-degree oval lines) in the working space of piston, if you see those clearly in reflection and you see no excessively worn spots then you're fine without doing re-boring/re-coating, just put in a new piston with rings.
  16. Headlight is just fixed with two clips. Just take easy on them and in warmer temperature, so the plastic doesn't snap easily. Headlight and it's wiring is a complete chinash*it (read cheap and fragile), I've broken the wires many times and they self-destruct in time anyway. In the end I just binned it and the dead headlight stays in place just as a design element, rear I just removed, LOL.
  17. My TR280i has well over 300 hours, so had my trusty '13 for some well deserved refreshment, made it more minimal and elegant looks, more OSSA style:
  18. Yep, check the master cylinder as well and try to replace the piston (the seal lips wear vs the new ones will give you a good indication). If the pack thickness is correct then it just doesn't hydraulically push clutch enough to engage fully. Removing all air from the hydraulic system is vital of course.
  19. On a second thought quite sure it's the master cylinder plunger seal. I had the same symtoms once. Those AJP seals wear fast, I always buy multiple to keep as spares.
  20. Clutch pack is probably too thick? If so, grind the plates carefully (evenly) down to OSSA spec. It's the same design as GasGas Pro series, pack thickness needs to be right for the best feel and performance. I recently got Xiu-RDi kevlar clutch for my 280i, fantastic piece of kit. Much better feel over the stock clutch and costing just some 20 EUR more than stock. Xiu-RDi Pack thickness is spot on, no need to measure anything, just install it and you're good to go!
  21. Wow, if true That'd be very nice if we could have the updated 2017 OSSAs! Dont think the client base is decreasing though... We both with wife like our 280 so much that there's a good cahance we'll buy a 250 regular or 300 factory into family, depends who will win the argument!
  22. I've put over 300 000 klicks on clock meself with boxer BMWs - let me tell you, the changing of ports from rear-to-front to up-to-down wasn't the issue. It was about the aestethics coming from air cooling and going to liquid-cooling from the later models. The new ones are unproven, but the older air/oil cooled boxers are among the most reliable engine I've known. Hank, a friend of mine has his 1995 R1100GS stacked up to 500 000 miles (over 800 000 kms) with everything stock in the boxer engine! Boxer layout itself is by far the best air-cooled engine by nature, by far - cylinders are sticking fully out of the frame and getting all the air you need, no matter where you place the ports. It's no accident the piston engined airplane manufacturers (Cessna, Piper etc) prefer de-facto boxers for their effective cooling, accessibility, ease of maintenance and most of all: reliability. Engines, that are stuck between the frame (singles, inline and V [minus transverse Guzzi]) that do not get a direct air are a worriy if you require air cooling, hot port(s) from the front add massive additional hot air to the already airflow lacking engine in the direaction of motorcycle movement (and why the liquid-cooling is very important for those type of engines). So in case of OSSA the front port's hot part doesn't add additional heat to the working cylinder behind, it get's cool intake air instead, I do believe this layout saved me from seizing it from overheating. Anyways, just me 2c and I'm still amazed the thing keeps going strong!
  23. Well, me idiot forgot to connect the rectifier after I installed the stock exhaust (me old Termi needs some carbon fibre repair). Basically I rode 2-3 hours without cooling and voltage control! ECU should be fryed (overload), engine should be seized (from excessive heat), but NO, the 2013 very-high compression headed OSSA TR280i thing kept going and going without blinking! I thought it's running a bit strange, and after a very hard core section I noticed vapour fog coming from below the engine (coolant vent) and noticed there's no fan action. Then the shock came and I released my mistake. The designer of OSSA TRi, mr. Xiu, put a lot of effort on getting the optimum thermodynamics and efficency out of this engine (and the reason why it came out with such a radical design - engine always gets cool air from the front and hot exits from the rear, not like with the flawed classical front-exhaust ported bikes where the hot air from the exhaust always falls into the engine). In any case, I'm relatively sure any Sherco, GG or Beta would have piston seized into bore already after that kind of heat abuse Of course I quickly I replaced the oil - to my surprise it looked very clean, almost half of the coolant was boiled away, I it topped up. Rode some additional 3 hours in different days to be sure it's fine - the thing keeps going strong like nothing has happened, so all looks to be set and fine. Top marks to OSSA designers and engineers! This TRi platform has so much potential if they could keep this fantastic design going and improving!
  24. tsiklonaut

    Ossa Clutch

    Been running the Xiu kevlar clutch for some time now - much better feel over stock IMO. Comes spot-on pack thickness from the shop, very high quality since I couldn't even find thicker-thinner parts after a lot of measurments when installing them into basket, in the end had to put them in randomly and it was butter-smooth, tractible and highly controllable clutch action after some 1-2 hours of run-in. Let's remember Xiu actually designed OSSA for the most part, he knows his stuff! Anyways, highly recommended!
  25. I'm using this function. It really helps to make the this best 2T trials engine in the market to run even smoother. It depends on your riding style, how you oil and how much you oil your air filter (how much air the engine gets) and what exhaust you're running (how good the "flow" is). For Termignoni I run between 102-103% that seems to do the trick for the best smoothness in power delivery for my riding style and less "popping", since Termi seems to run leaner (better flow vs stock). For stock exhaust I still experiment, currently 101.5%, a bit too much popping and unstable under load or free running, might tune leaner next time I connect the ECU. I use very "sticky" Motorex air filter oil, but the flow seems to be good since I tend to go on the richer side (over 100%).
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