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tsiklonaut

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  1. tsiklonaut

    Oil Qty

    And going a bit over isn't an issue either. I've run a bit over 500 ml without any bubbling at all, meaning it is still below crankshaft. Oil properties last longer in larger amounts, that is why OSSA changed ther official spec from 350 to 450 ml for the same engine, but also were concerned with extra weight. Hence you can go a bit even more if you aren't concerned with 100-200 grams of extra weight on bike lol.
  2. Just got my Forma Boulders run-in, took some 3-5 rides at least. They are a bit too rigid on initial use. After run-in I can tell Boulder are very good boots. Comfty, sturdy yet flexible enough for excellent feedback. Sizing is spot-on in my case. I like them being a high profile, I've had many injuries with lower boots hitting the spot that is now covered with Formas. One small negative: while I really like the "pump" design bottoms that gives more air to the bottom of your feet, IMHO it's made a bit too flexible and too slippy - when I push in my feet normally I can push it in too much forward so it folds in front of your toes. Takes an awkward movement with your toes to put it back into place, LOL. Or put in my feet more carefully also avoids this. I hope they fix this small "issue" in the future Forma model. I'd make the soles slightly softer too to dampen the vibrations more, but this would mean they'd wear out quicker too, hence not sure what they can do about this. Maybe being too fanatical, but a gear-shifter layer on top of the left boot wouldn't hurt too in the next update - currently the black aluminium grinding spot from the gear lever doesn't look particulary tasty on that nice brown leather They are not fully waterproof of course. Considering using Nikwax one mine, anyone nikwaxed their for waterproofness?
  3. Can anyone tell what color wires connect to gas reserve light? I do around 1-2 hour rides on my TR280i and often like to know how much fuel I have left to ride back home at the right moment. I'm always too close to be out of fuel in the end of the session, don't want to push it back home over a mile, a working reserve light would to avoid it I reckon
  4. Sounds interesting, keep us posted if you have the design and build done. Might be a good update for anyone looking for more robust linkage setup.
  5. Yes, mine's showing serious wear as well. It gets quite warm so I think most adhesive stuff wouldnt stay there(?)
  6. Rebound should be adjustable with a hex key having a very short "L" (i.e. grind it off from regular hex key), you should get inbetween the frame/Termi and the adjusting screw. At least on my 2013 I can do that.
  7. Here's a simple guide how to repack Termignoni on OSSA. 1st take it off of course: 2nd undo the rivets with a drill: 3rd take off the backplate, mine was siliconed, needed some serious work to get it off: 4th start taking off the old packing - use gloves and I also recommend a well ventilated room or better use painter's mask, it's a nasty stuff when gets airbone, the fibers and all the 2 stroke burnt oil crap will get into your nostrils and lungs: 5th take off as much as you can. Since I use two-compound packing (plates and soft-packing) I left the outer plating inside (packing plate some few millimeters thick against the exhaust walls) since it was in very good condition. What wears out is the packing near the pipe, hence I removed that: 6th, since the piping damping (metal debris packing) was in good conditions I left as it is. On very old exhaust you may have to change that and repack the pipe's surface. Put in the new fresh packing, as said I used the soft packing for the middle parts. DO NOT pack too tight (the lid should go on with little resistance) but also not too light. Just right amount with some little resistance, you'll feel it - nice and comftily tight enough. If too much or too little packing it will be louder and packing doesn't last as long. 7th re-rivet, I also ued a black high-temp silicone to seal the lid, it also reduces/dampens the sound: 8th, yer done. I wasn't conservative with the silicone and I didn't do any beauty work, for me the function is more important.
  8. Yes, any old and worn exhaust it will go much quieter after properly repacking. I've done this on my other bikes. I haven't done this on TRi Termignoni, but looking at should be very easy - just take off the rivets, repack and re-rivet. I found my rear wheel touches a bit of the top side of the Termignoni exhaust, scraping some few millimeters of carbon fibre off - anyone else had this on their Termignoni? Or maybe I make too hard jumps with suspension bottoming out hard?
  9. Just today tested with a accurate GPS, OSSA TR280i with Termignoni and EVO6 (for Termignoni) map top speed: 92 kph. I have 9T sprocket front and 42T rear, so it's pretty high-geared, and loads of power left, just like it needs another gear. I'm guess if I put the 11T in front it'll be between 110-130 kph tops. TRi 6th gear is very nicely overdrived for transit "cruising" and my tests show it can cruise 70-80kph all day, but as said, trials bikes do not like roads, I'm using it just for occasional connecting streches between playgrounds and also helps to burn and clean out the exhaust going full in 6th gear
  10. Sounds interesting guys. Let us know how the upgrade goes.
  11. A decent dash out yesterday:
  12. Trialshop in Austria is the only place in the World I know sells them. Pants & shirt. Took some 2 weeks of additional waiting (to another 2 weeks of shipping to me) since it was a backorder from the Clice factory apparently. Hence may not be available anymore. The shop also sells a nice OSSA backback, cap & team jacket.
  13. There is not enough room for needle bearings, but I guess when you bore out the holes it is possible to convert into bearings. That being said it is pointless conversion unless you somehow seal the open ends. Maybe using custom cut rubber caps on shafts helps?
  14. They are fine as they are IMHO, they serve the same function as bearings but save a lot of weight. With the right tools the singarm+linkage opening is relatively easy to clean and re-lube: There's actually a "lube collection" groove in almost every bore, you can feel them with finger - I filled them up, this will make the lube last longer. Clean off the excess lube after putting together. Now it's like new again: I think the trick is to use a lot of lube, so the water and mud cannot go inbetween. I'd open them once a year, but if lot of water and mud then maybe every 20 to 60 hours riding or so depending how extreme the conditions. Certainly I wouldn't worry too much about it.
  15. Since I love my my bike so much decided to get that hard-to-find OSSA clothing and recently got one decent set!
  16. There's a whole pack of wires, probably for connecting the headlights & electronic dashboard: Anyone knows which color cables are correct?
  17. Cheers Craig, will seek into that. With maps switch I'be been thinking also putting on the Btwice throttle body (TB) upgrade too but being lazy I think I will stick to stock Bing TB for now since I have the diagnostic cables, I can always reset TB and set maps. Hence if anyone wants a brand new Btwice throttle body (that does not require resetting TB when changing idle speed via simple screw) send me a PM. Margus
  18. Yep, takes practice and experience. I usually set it level below knowing it will increase when I tighten, and when tighten fully it's now almost always spot on
  19. I after a brief search can't find those on my 2013 TR280i. Can anyone describe where those two wires come where I need to connect the dual map switch's two wires? Are they somewhere near headlight or somewhere down the ECU unit?
  20. Food for thought indeed. Mine's 280 and also never required more power, but since I've already bought the swich for peanuts I guess got to try it out to see if I like it or not I'm guessing the map loading is similar, just switch to other position and load the other map(?)
  21. The longer way to do it as manual says: 1) Loosen the TPS screw and turn it so the K-Scan shows 0.6 volts (+/- 0,05V), tighten the screw (make sure the reading doesn't change when you tighten). Then click "Set to ECU" and do a ECU restart (disconnect the 12V). 2) Then warm up the engine (fan has started at least 3 times) and turn then adjust TB stop screw to the 1500 RPM (or whatever you prefer) idle. Then click "Set to ECU" and you're done. But since you already got the preferred idle I reckon you're fine as it is after you reset TPS ("Set to ECU"). I also use the EVO6 map for Termignoni on my 280i - superb! PS: Planning to install dual map switch on mine, and maybe try some very-soft surface (mud, sand etc) map as a secondary option since I sometimes need it. Anyone installed dual map switch on their TRi? Does it switch maps while running or needs a restart?
  22. Yes, with OSSA stock Bing throttle body when you change idle speed then you always need to reset the TPS ("Set to ECU"). Unless you have a Btwice throttle body installed, this has independent idle adjustment and does not require TPS reset..
  23. Maybe I missed the point indeed, since I said EFI is better choice even on trials bikes per intended design. Have you ridden EFI OSSA to experience how good the EFI engine actually is on a trials bike? Hand-buit & specialist prepped high-end competition riding is something completely different to "average joe" production bikes. If a tiny nonsignificant company in trials segment doesn't have Bou or Raga riding for factory team doesn't mean they can't build excellent trials bikes. I'd actually be willing to bet if OSSA won a lottery, made some real advertising for their unknown name and could afford one of those two top riders then OSSA would dominate the trials comps
  24. Did you connect the data cable & 12V, and fuel pump made noise? If all yes and not working then it's probably wrong port selected. In K-Scan try Transfer Settings menu and set port "Auto" from the popup selection. If it doesn't give any "can't find ECU" or similar error after few moments then it should work - see if then it says "connected" on bottom right of the main K-Scan program window, if connecte it shows also the port number. Then you're ready to rock! Beware the next time you put the cable into different USB port you'll have the same problem, so try "Auto" again from Transfer Settings. My same cable setup from Joa works OK even on (otherwise annoying-) Windows 10, so shouldn't be a problem with Windows version. If no connect, then do ECU restart - disconnect cables from some 30 seconds. Then connect ECU, then 12V and repeat the Transfer Setting "Auto" function and see if it connects with this method. Let me know if this works for you.
  25. Do NOT plug it to capacitor (and the connector should't let you). You need to disconnect the capacitor and connect the 12V to other end - to ECU. When you plug in 12V you then hear fuel pump prime. Then ECU is powered up and is communicating over the USB, K-Scan goes live and all functions go active. Simple as that.
 
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