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old bones

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  • Bike
    tiger cub

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    Was Bristol now France(Dept 16)
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  1. triger cub swingarm clearence

    As above, I worked from the front wheel being central in the forks and aligned the rear from it. my offset if it helps is 66mm approx from centre of rim to face of brake drum with no brake plate fitted.
  2. triger cub swingarm clearence

    Detective 21 I'm not sure if I'm reading your problem right but have you moved the engine over with spacers on the engine mounts? also I use a spacer behind the rear sprocket (an old sprocket with the teeth machined off) it seems to work for me. Thats assuming you have the right "offset in the rear wheel when it was laced to the new rim. Hope this helps, perhaps someone with specific knowledge will advise you better.
  3. Cub Chain Problem

    Alan, I think you are right on both points ,I had the same thought about an hour after I wrote the post but decided to leave it just in case someone came up with a solution. If you put a small shim behind the sprocket to allow the chain to sit down properly there will not be much thread to hold the nut, as it is there is only about 6mm of thread for the nut. If the sprocket was dished I could make a deeper nut and turn down the bit that contacts with the sprocket face and loctite it on instead of center popping it. Naichuff, I think the bearing/seal housing must be different as a 13T will not work on my cases. I know everyone says they are the same but clearly some are different or the 13T would work. I have received a 14T sprocket today and it looks like it may just be OK but its very close to the alloy I will put the chain on and see if it clears. trialsrfun, As it is I will try the 14T with the new 64T rear and see how it goes, As a rule of thumb if you go up one tooth on the G/box you would need to go up two on the rear to stay about right and I'm not sure if 15T and 16T sprockets with the corresponding size increase in the rear would be available. Anyway thank you all for your input and if you have any further advice ,please let me know.
  4. Cub Chain Problem

    Alan, thanks for the reply, I have no problem getting the socket on the nut to take it on or off, its just that if the sprocket I have is indeed the off-set one then I will not be able to use it as the chain will wear away the lip that keeps the seal in. The original cases were damaged by the chain which was 428 because the bearing moved and the bearing housing was worn away to the extent that the seal failed and was so badly damaged that replacing the seal was not possible ,so, I want to avoid the same thing happening so thought that I would go down a chain size on the new cases to avoid this problem not knowing I would have a problem of the same kind. This is so frustrating, I bet if I go back to the 428 size or bigger say 520 the diameter of the sprocket could well be a lot bigger and not be any where near the bearing housing. Perhaps you or someone could advise as to weather going up to a larger chain but still keeping the 13 G/box sprocket is viable? Your thoughts appreciated or anyone else who has an opinion also appreciated.
  5. Cub Chain Problem

    Many thanks for all your replies, I have what I think is a Talon stepped sprocket with apart number of TG402 13T (420). If anyone has one that is not fitted to their bike could they measure it and see if it compares to the one I have? Mine is as follows: The distance between the sprocket face and the boss that goes through the seals towards the bearing is 16.5mm with a 1.2mm recess where the sprocket nut sits with the part number stamped there. Does this tally with the off-set sprocket measurements? It beats me how someone would make different sprockets and give them the same part number but non the less that could be the problem, I even emailed Talon for the measurements but they did not reply. Anyway, thank you again gents your advice is much appreciated.
  6. Cub Chain Problem

    Has anyone had the same problem as me when it comes to fitting a 13T g/box sprocket and a 420 chain, The chain will not sit down on the sprocket as it contacts with the seal and bearing housing.The crankcases are twin roller bearing and the only difference I can see from the old ones that got damaged is that they have two seals on the g/box sprocket while the old ones had only one, This makes the sprocket too close to the bearing housing which would cause the chain to wear away the seal lip. Anyone have any thoughts ?
  7. Cub Pushrod Tube Gaskets

    Alan, You are a star!. You must have spent quite a while on resolving this problem thanks again for all the info it is much appreciated. I will order the O rings and have a play around with the fitting. Thanks again.
  8. Cub Pushrod Tube Gaskets

    Alan, Thanks for the info regarding the o rings, I seem to remember using simply bearings a while ago so thanks for pointing me in that direction again. I tried a dry build with the bottom seal in position and nothing on the top, but, when I did up the head bolts a bit the bottom seal was squashing out and deforming quite a lot and would certainly not seal. I installed the old seal and could get about 2.5mm gap on the tube, there doesnt seem to be much difference in the old seal and the new size wise, except the old one is more flexible. Do you use an "O" ring or two for the bottom seal as well as the top? It seems I have wasted a couple of quid on these new type seals that will NOT fit, so it may be worthwhile experimenting with original on the bottom and an "O" ring on the top? what do you think. Thanks for your time in answering my query.
  9. Cub Pushrod Tube Gaskets

    Alan, Many thanks for sharing the solution to my problem and also an alternative to it as well. I will do as you advise regarding the dry build and see what top gasket to use ,I must say that the bottom black rubber ring seems very tight so I guess it will not compress very much so perhaps I will start with the thinnest one first. For the future in case the new type doesnt work that well and as an alternative to going back to the poorly designed originals where would I find a supply for the viton "o" ring that you use?. Many thanks again.
  10. Cub Pushrod Tube Gaskets

    Could someone help with an answer to my silly question?. I have just purchased a set of the new type of tube gaskets, the set comes with a large black rubber seal which I assume goes in the bottom and two composite type gaskets of different thicknesses . The black one was a right pain to get in as it seemed too thick but I eventually got it in with the aid of some silicon lube, Now for the silly question; what do you do with the TWO composite gaskets?? I would rather ask the question and get advice before putting it together and it leaking. (My cub has a square barrel and head) any advice gladly received
  11. First Time Blue Route

    All the above advice is good and It would be good to ride with someone else but not essential but most of all, have a great day, dont get flustered and dont worry about holding up other riders. When you are at a section watch someone go through the route you are doing and try to see what they do, If your not sure ask the observer or another rider which way to go.We all started where you are now. I do hope you have a bit of fun and a great day. Post up how you got on. All the best
  12. Head Torque Mont 200

    Thanks 29markt for the speedy reply, your a star!!
  13. Head Torque Mont 200

    Hello, I've searched but cant find the values of torque for the cylinder head on my Montesa cota 200, can somebody put me right? Thanks in advance.
  14. Bsa B25 Clutch Operating Arm

    The small pinion which acts upon the rack is fitted onto the spindle with a left hand thread, if you leave the pinion in its recess and TAP!!! the arm in a CLOCKWISE direction it should come loose. To fit it back on, fit the bits together and hold it in soft jaws in a vice or "G" clamp and again TAP in the opposite direction just to lock it up. And as Whinger said "BE CAREFUL" Good Luck
  15. Cub Swinging Arm Question

    Thanks for the replies, it seems that there would not be any great benefit in changing because of the other variables so I think I will wait and maybe swap them over later in the year when I have more time to try them out. I can see now that the shock positions would be different as the swing arm is lengthened between the pivot and the lower mountings thus slightly laying down the shocks and making the rear of the cub a bit lower than if using the standard length one, albeit only slightly. I think I was hoping that this would transform the handling, but as totalshell has said "you pays your money" I recently changed the tyres from Pirelli's to IRC's and found such a difference with so much more grip that I started looking to make other improvements so perhaps the swing arm change is for another day. Many thanks again for your advice.