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About trapezeartist

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    Advanced Member
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    Beta Evo 300 4T

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  1. I just did the fix on my 2012 Evo 4T. The basket was in perfect order and the drive tags on the fibre plates were nicely finished so I just gave the corners the lightest lick with a file. The glue between the fibre pads was not as bad as some of the photos in this thread, but there was a nice little pile of filings by the time I finished. I have the stepped washers on the springs and they were already in the light setting so I left them that way. It's all back together now, generously oiled as I reassembled. I haven't been able to fire up as the carb and exhaust are still on the bench. I was disappointed to find that rocking to and fro in gear still exhibits the same cold stick. Or will it be free when it has been run for a few minutes and then left again? It was a mind-numbing job, and I would probably have given up after the first plate if I hadn't read so much enthusiastic praise for the job. I know my bike didn't start as bad as some earlier 2Ts so I'm not expecting such a great leap forward as them. If I can solve the cold stick and make it possible to get neutral with the engine running, I would call that a result.
  2. That's where the "Sorry" comes in.
  3. "Sorry but that's a 5. "
  4. Of course weight is an easier thing to judge than a momentary stop, but moving/ stopped is easier to discriminate than less/more than some arbitrary allowable pause. But my main point was that a clear rule, rigorously and universally applied, will be obeyed and respected by competitors. If the rule is woolly and inconsistently applied, competitors will try to take advantage and will argue the toss.
  5. As a recent returner, I think I'm missing something here. What is "stop for a 1"? I really do think "no stop" should be interpreted literally. It's the only way for consistency, and everyone will soon get used to it. In karting, every class has a minimum weight limit. Every race, several people are selected to be weighed as they come off the track. If you're 0.1kg under, that's exclusion. Everyone accepts it. There are never any arguments. No-one cheats. The few exclusions that there are are down to mistakes.
  6. Well the thing about an old twinshock is, you don't have to stand up the whole time. It has a seat. You only need to stand up to get the control in the nadgery bits. But if you want to go thrashing around at speed in open spaces, it's not the bike for you.
  7. It's a little tinkling noise from the engine under load, "pink, pink, pink,.......". It's the result of the fuel mixture igniting due to excessive heat in the cylinder before the spark plug sparks. As it happens while the piston is still going up it causes very high loads on the piston, small end, etc and a loss of power. The root causes are excessively high compression ratio, poor quality (low octane) fuel or a build-up of carbon in the combustion chamber.
  8. With my riding skills, top end power is of negligible interest. My main concern is "driveability". I would like to think that my riding is getting better, so it can be easy to confuse improvements to the bike and improvements to the rider. Nevertheless a slow throttle, adjusting the slow-running mixture, adjusting the idle speed and (possibly) sorting out the breather pipes have been the things that have brought the improvements.
  9. Well done! It was too tricky for me. But one bolt for shock, one for the CDI and two for the regulator just seemed easier than even more knuckle-skinning wiggling. And an opportunity to clean behind/under/around the said parts too.
  10. Some people have suggested to me that I should use 127.5 main jet but 120 seems to be working fine for me. There's nothing tricky about the spring. The difficult bit is removing and refitting the carb on the engine. I wouldn't suggest this is definitive, but it goes something like this: Remove rear mudguard. Remove airbox (The jubilee clip may be difficult to access and there are two hidden rubber pipes under the main part.) Disconnect the top of the rear shock and lean it back. Remove CDI unit on right hand side. Remove the finned aluminium ignition box that lies on top of the gearbox. Remove the rubber connector to the carb. (Another tricky jubilee clip). Disconnect the fuel pipe and throttle cable. Undo the jubilee clip fixing the carb to the engine stub (this one may be easier). Twist, fiddle, wiggle and turn the carb until it comes out, probably on the left side. When you come to refit the carb, take care to make sure none of the breather pipes are going to touch the exhaust and try to point the jubilee clips in the direction that is easiest for access. I found it was easiest to leave all the jubilee clips loose until everything was together, then tighten them all. It helps with the alignment.
  11. This is the table I found somewhere with the recommended settings: I followed the 300 competition settings and got a lot of popping in the exhaust. I've now wound the idle mixture out from 2 to 2.5 turns (it's actually a "fuel screw", not an "air screw") and that stopped it. The engine is obviously a lot happier as the idle speed went way up, and had to be adjusted down with the normal idle adjustment screw. As you can see there is no allowance for altitude. I would guess that these would work up to 1000m. Above that, you're on your own. Taking the carb off is a pig of a job, but once it's out the rest is easy. Remove the plastic top cover (2 screws) to get to the spring and diaphragm. Remove four screws on the bottom to drop off the float chamber and get access to the jets.
  12. I've done that and it worked for me too.
  13. I stayed with 120 main jet but took the air screw (which isn't an air screw, it's a fuel screw) out to 2.5 turns. That stopped the popping and pushed the idle speed up quite a lot, so I adjusted the idle back down on the normal idle adjuster. It ran well today.
  14. I copied thall1's pipe layout and it worked well. Absolute swine to find a place to route everything though, without cooking something on the exhaust.
  15. Having returned to trials in the last year, and starting off by observing to get my feet back under the table, I have been somewhat bewildered by the lax interpretation of stopping. Most clubs have suggested to me that up to 3 seconds stop is OK, but then told me it's up to me. So I could apply a strict interpretation if I want to. Some say that's OK as it's equal for everyone. But it's a bit harsh on the rider who hesitates in my section (5) while someone else who hesitates in another section get's away with it. I would prefer a strict interpretation as that is easier to observe fairly.