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About djr

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    ossa 250 mar
  1. ORRe , what happened ?

    sorry if this is the wrong place to ask , but just gone to look at ORRe on here but its gone, replaced with a message. can anyone explain ?
  2. The Cush drive

    Removing the Cush Drive can be done, some bikes have something similar on the clutch instead of the rear wheel, some bikes don't seem to have any Cush Drive on any part of the drivetrain I have an OSSA MAR with a Cush Drive on the Crankshaft { I have no idea why they fitted this ! } I think the general idea is to protect the Chain / Gearbox etc. from shocks , so it cant do any harm and may extend the life of these parts. the problem is when the Cush Drive wears you can end up with a wobbly sprocket etc. , if parts are easy to get & sensibly priced then probably easiest to leave as it is, if not then making it solid wont cause any major problems I would think up to you really, hope this helps
  3. Ossa Mar rearbrake modification

    when I was looking for a replacement rear brake cable for the worn one on my MAR , all the replacement ones that I saw seemed to be made from thinner cable than the old one - they were the same thickness as the Universal Brake/Clutch cable kits that are available, but just not as thick a cable as the old one. anyway , I purchased and fitted one of these cables and it worked okay, but did seem to stretch/flex a bit in use. I wasn't really happy with it and ended up getting a Ford Transit Clutch cable with the threaded rod on one end and modified this to fit. the Transit cable I used is the same thickness as the old cable that was on the bike, and it does seem better at braking and resisting stretching / flexing now as has been said - good linings + a good cable + proper adjustment and the standard setup can work well , despite looking like it shouldn't work !
  4. Stuck at splitting an engine.

    I am not familiar with the layout of those engines, you say you have a manual but not sure if its right for the engine , maybe try looking at an online parts diagram if you can find one have you got flywheel & clutch covers off to make sure everything is removed that needs removing ? gear box sprocket, gear lever , kick start lever etc. ? maybe a little circlip on one of the shafts ? sometimes clutch basket or the gear on the crank that drives it will need removing
  5. I really hope this works out for you , and that you can still enjoy motorcycling through riding Trials in the future. I cant really add anything to what others have already said, other than - have you cleared this with your doctor ? wearing a crash helmet and possibly falling off and hitting your head 6 weeks after surgery may not be recommended while you are healing ( you know what doctors are like } good luck , and maybe post an update when you have had a go
  6. Pre-65 prices

    thanks for this info, but I still don't see any victories in a major Trial or Championship mentioned ? the oil leak is no surprise though ! I will concede they look and sound okay , but not enough to justify a world record price for an old Twinshock , if I really wanted a 4 stroke Twinshock I would get a Honda
  7. Leaky gear shaft MAR

    that's good advise , O rings come in different types of rubber and different thicknesses also, may only need a firmer compound or a fraction thicker material to make the difference, if your clutch cover just slips straight over the gearshaft with no resistance/friction then the O ring may be too thin even if its the right diameter , problem is the easily available O rings all seem to be soft cheap rubber and not as thick as you may need
  8. TY250A Oil Pump advice

    If your Oil pump has been left on the engine and is still rotating with the engine running , yet has no oil passing through it , I wouldn't think this does the pump internals any good. I could be wrong but I would guess this would cause a lot of wear in the pump , I personally wouldn't trust the pump now and would use Premix or get a new pump if they are available
  9. Leaky gear shaft MAR

    Hello, on my MAR there is a sort of - 'felt' washer on the gear lever shaft as well as the O ring , when both are in good condition the leakage is reduced , but not eliminated. Have looked at machining the cover to accept an oil seal but haven't got round to it as I think there isn't enough thickness of metal to remove to get to the size of hole needed for an oil seal ( I could be wrong ) I did think of moving the side stand from the left side to the right side to eliminate the oil drip when the bike is parked up ! At the moment I have given up on this annoying drip and just accept it as part of owning a 1970s Spanish bike Hope this is helpful
  10. Pre-65 prices

    With some of the Classic Bike prices you do wonder if the market is being supported by enthusiasts or investor / speculator type people, or people who are a bit of both . { I hope it is enthusiasts } I can understand the interest & prices for - Goldstar, Vincent, Brough Superior, Indian, etc. as they were probably the best bikes in the era they were made, and won championships & medals, world records etc. But I am baffled by the prices for B.S.A. powered CCMs , especially the Trials model , did anybody ever win a major Trials event / championship on one of those ? I know the Moto Cross models never won a British or World championship { and got caught cheating with oversize engines at least once}
  11. TY Mono Frame crack and footpeg mods

    No idea what type of steel the Frame is made from , but if you look round the frame at all the other welded joints you can usually tell if it was manufactured with - MIG , TIG , ARC or Bronze Weld {you may have to clean off some paint to do this} if you have any doubts get an experienced Welder to look at the welds if it was made with MIG welds then repairs with MIG should be fine
  12. Pre-65 prices

    Have to agree that asking prices are one thing , selling prices another . about once a year a 350 CCM will come on ebay at a ridiculous price , lots of watchers but no bidders nearly every time if you own a CCM ,you don't have it to ride, { it stays in the shed } - but you have to tell everyone that you own one and how much you think its worth
  13. eBay ' universal ' brake levers

    Yes, avoid if possible. if you do feel like buying some, get 2 sets and take the spares & some tools with you every time you ride ! I fitted some to a bike I was rebuilding , just leaning the bike against the workshop wall gently was enough to break them both, both broke in the workshop before I ever rode the bike. Domino, Magura , etc end up cheaper in the long run, haven't tried the cheaper forged ones that are available, maybe they are good too ?
  14. Montesa MH349 carb

    unless you see a used Amal carb at a very cheap price I would be careful buying any second hand Amal concentric carb , they can wear rapidly and distort easily if overtightened. years before the Chinese starting making things from Crap metal , Amal had invented there own recipe for Crap metal and started making carbs from it

    Hello, Steve Sell / Marlimar is in the UK {somewhere in the south I believe} Las time I called him {a couple of years ago} his phone no. was - 02392 593120 or 07800 778048 you may have to leave a message and be patient as I think he is a busy man, and Ossa spares probably not his main occupation, its worth the wait as he is helpful and very knowledgeable about these bikes. Inmotion also do some parts, both of them may well be at Telford off road show hope this helps