Yamaha

I am doing a full tear down on the engine on my TY175 and have noticed that the gear on the clutch basket has what seems to be quite a bit of play in the direction of rotation where it rivets to the basket. This doesn't seem normal to allow this much play so I am wondering if there is a standard fix for this or am I being overly cautious?

What would be the torque setting for the cylinder head suds on a TYZ 250 ?? Thanks muchly.

Am assisting with the rebuild of a TY 175 which when completed will be ridden in trials including the KIA series. What is the best set up for the frame and forks please, can the skinny leg 175 forks be made to work well, they operate smothly enough but seem very softly sprung with not much damping. The frame is totally standard what changes or improvements could be made to improve steering, handling, footrests etc or is it best left alone? Chain is 428 with 12t gearbox and 51t rear wheel sprockets fitted are these sizes a good choice, needs work before it can be ridden.

Yamaha have a bike ready for the eTrials World Cup and so a bike, so a new TY could be on the cards, great news from the manufacturer with a massive history in the sport of Trials

Looking at cashing out on a wes exhaust - am I better with one or two boxes? I don't mind the noise as I ride with a few VERY loud pre 65's. But what will give best power

Is it normal for the tapered steering head bearings to have very little thread engagement? I have 1 of the kits including the original seal that sits on the bottom yoke under the bearing & the seal is completely visible below the steering head, a fair amount of the top bearing case sits proud of the steering head & the only way the nut fits is upside down with only about 2 threads doing anything This is the same kit as sold by TY Trials

The engine on this TY250 is well-worn, with a good .3mm piston to bore clearance at its worst point, so a rebore needed! But am curious if this is the original, Yamaha, piston. It measures up as standard size, just under 68mm so plenty of rebore options left. The big-end is also on its last legs so need to start saving, but in the meantime I

I posted up looking for some help to find gearbox parts, but the thread seems to have gone? Did I do something wrong?

I've managed to misplace the sprocket side axle spacer on my 250c & the bike is over an hour away so measuring the swingarm gap isn't going to be an option this week. Does anyone have their rear wheel out & can give me the sizing to turn up a new 1? Due to wear in the hub the bearing isn't the standard diameters but the width is the same as what came out, normally the spacer would stay in the wheel but I must have knocked it out at some stage

Has anyone tried Magical fork springs in their TY 250 34mm straight leg forks, same for the alloy damper kit which looks interesting but is rather pricey. Would like to know what difference these parts might bring.

Evening All I am I'm the process of starting a rebuild and note the cross strap/brace between the left hand side frame tubes above the pegs has broken. Looking at other TYs this seems to be a common problem and as such there is clearly a load at that point. What is the best fix - weld up as is, replace with a stronger gusset, or remove? If welded it may break again which would be annoying after powder coating so am tempted to replace with a stronger gusset. However this may send load elsewhere in the frame. Has anyone any thoughts or experience? Interestingly the brace/stop light bracket on the other side doesn't seem to suffer the same problem.

Hi guys, Rebuild is coming along, getting into a few nitty gritty jobs now. While fitting up the throttle cable it felt a bit tight and rough. I dismantled it and oiled it but it's still stiff for the throttle to snap closed. My question is, do you bin the oil pump in favour of a single throttle cable and just mix the oil with the petrol. My thinking is, it's a near 40 year old pump, what if it doesn't deliver the oil as it should. bin it and single throttle cable or replace with new duel cable and keep the convenience of the pump? what have you guys done. Oh and as for tank graphics, do I opt for the thin double line that was on it originally or go …

I have a TY350 mono that I rode several years before it blew a crank seal 10 or 15 years ago. I had the cylinder redone with NikaSil but never put the engine back together. I have started riding it again (on another engine) just for fun, but am thinking of building it as a 250 instead. I have never ridden a 250 as they were not imported here (USA) nor very commonly brought in privately. I understand they are peppier, rev higher, and more 'modern feel' compared to my old dinosaur. I have a well worn 250 cylinder that can be bored, but no head. So my questions are: 1. Will the 250 cylinder fit the cases with the existing studs? If I recall (it is boxed up)…

I've got a dt250 piston for my ty! New rings arrived, in box with rings is a thin 50pence shaped ring! Can anyone tell me where it goes?

Hi, I am a newbie member but I have purchased a Yamaha TY 175 1980 to do some twinshock trials for fun. I have stripped the bike down for a light restoration, but on removing the flywheel cover spotted some black silicone to the front and slightly above the front sprocket and behind the clutch adjustment screw/bolt. Removing the silicone revealed what looks like Quick Steel type repair putty had been used. The bike had not been leaking from this location, and the area of damage looks quite small. My concern is that in this location there appears to be a small steel cap pressed in to the aluminium casting, what is this for? Am I OK to ignore it as the sproket seems to rota…

Hi, I'm looking to buy a stainless steel pro monty does anyone Nowhere to buy one from? New or used is fine. Cheers Paul

I have a B model 250 with the original Mikuni that I've been trying to setup for a few years. The motor as a .005 inch head gasket, is on 3rd os, the exhaust port is '' lifted'' .020 inch, the rest of the ports are not modified, not really polish but clean. There is no modified reed valve. I run Shell super gaz with a good oil at 50:1. I fitted a Uni Filter and the motor is equipped with a Wes exhaust. I played with the timing without any real improvement.I have been fiddling with the needle eight, low speed and main jet, air screw etc. but the motor is always running hot at close throttle to 1/4 open . I fitted a VM 26mm played with it all of one summer and went back to …

Hi All, I'm trying bring my Pinky back to life and both rims have corroded beyond repair from within. I've located and replaced the front with no issues but my question is around the rear and the Z spokes. Will a standard 32 hole MX drilling rim be ok, such as fitted to Honda CRF250 circa 2009? Or does the rim need a specific drilling for the Z spokes? Thanks, Mark - Perth, Australia

Hi guys, TY is coming along, getting to the point of rebuilding. Zinc plating everything before paint is taking an age but hopefully worth it. Bit of a mistake by myself, the stainless spokes I ordered are wrong for the front. The rear laced up good, still need to true it up etc but I've had to re order new front spokes, had to compromise this time so there coming galvanised. I'll post up some pics of how she's looking so far. Back to to the main point though, I have searched for the inlet pipe between airbox and carb and I can't find one anywhere, does anyone know where this can be purchased or is there an alternative that fits or is it a case of make y…

What paint do you guys use to paint the barrel of a TY175? Thanks